10w30 synthetics?

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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: car51
I will say that it's kinda neat that SOPUS is using the GTL in their oils also
smile.gif


It has been stipulated that SOPUS had a suprlus of GTL at one point, so they were adding it to even their mineral product such as PYB. However, this was likely just a temporary condition. Don't count on it to remain like that.


This has been my belief in the past. SOPUS' data sheets have never indicated their conventional oils have this low a Noack and this makes me uncomfortable making the claim across the board. Even though i would love to think it were true of my current run of Quaker State.
wink.gif
 
Wemay: good point and I'll guess we will have to take the PQIA word or I think they do a good job testing oils
 
Originally Posted By: car51
Wemay: good point and I'll guess we will have to take the PQIA word or I think they do a good job testing oils


I thank the day i found PQIA. The service they provide is unique and much appreciated. I also trust the results they post for the particular oil purchased and tested. And for the most part, i take their results and extrapolate to the entire line of that particular oil. But the disparity between what SOPUS used to present as Noack % and what PQIA showed, was to great. Not that anyone did something wrong, i just don't know if GTL is being used consistently in their conventional oils and SOPUS doesn't admit to it one way or the other.
 
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Thank you for the info, Joe90_guy!

Seems to make PYB 10w30 a steal at 16 bucks a jug.
A clean, low volatility, and shear-stable HTHS 3.0 oil.

For an "Obsolete" oil
smile.gif


http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html

There is no guarantee that what you purchase today will have the same characteristics as what PQIA purchased on 7/1/2015, and we don't know when that batch was actually produced.

Still, if you need a mineral 10w-30 oil, I'm sure this PYB is great.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Thank you for the info, Joe90_guy!

http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html

There is no guarantee that what you purchase today will have the same characteristics as what PQIA purchased on 7/1/2015, and we don't know when that batch was actually produced.

Still, if you need a mineral 10w-30 oil, I'm sure this PYB is great.


True, That.

As long as the excellent basestock used makes economic sense for them.....
Considering the high cost of additives.
 
Originally Posted By: car51
I stand amazed that PYB has if I read right; a lower NOACK than PP or PU. Glad I have some PYB 10w30&40 for the jeep in the future


I *think* the reason PYB has a lower noack than the higher end PP & PU products, is that the higher end products have more additives like friction modifiers etc that increase the volatility. The PYB has more of a bare bones add pack.
 
Yall some smart fellas:)
I use 10-30 because simply it retains its film/clingeness (is that a word?) and doesnt drain off critical parts as easily as 5w. Take a bit of 5-30 and a bit of 10-30 drop both on say an inclined (45degrees or so) glass or slick surface. See which one is "thicker" on the surface after 30 minutes or less. I want as much as possible on my critical parts versus back down in my oil pan @ start up. I understand the 10-30's use a thicker GRP II or GRPIII base oil (depends on manufacturer) than their 5-30's and this is why 10-30 clings better than 5-30.
I live in South Texas so "winter" doesnt mean much to us here. Startup wear does though.
Just another aspect to add to the discussion.
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
I don't find this to be very useful because these temps are not really COLD.

If you want cold, watch this video, though you've likely seen it:



Of course, as Shannow indicates, this is demonstrating the difference between using an unsuitable oil versus using a suitable oil in the extreme cold. When both oils are in suitable temperature ranges, the differences are insignificant, as per the data posted.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
I don't find this to be very useful because these temps are not really COLD.

If you want cold, watch this video, though you've likely seen it:

...


Yeah, that's a good one!

Also, thanks to Shannow for posting the link to some cold oil tech papers with real meat...I'm going to have to find a good block of time to stare at them before I can really get much out of them, unfortunately.
 
Originally Posted By: shiny
Originally Posted By: SR5

The main difference between A3/B3 and A3/B4 is TBN. You need a TBN of 8 or more to be A3/B3, but a TBN of 10 or more to be A3/B4.

Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Euro in 5w30 and 5w40 are marketed as being A3/B4-08 but only have a TBN of 7.3. Did the A3/B4 standard change?



That seems really low, even lower than a number of standard conventional oils.
 
Originally Posted By: shiny
Originally Posted By: SR5

The main difference between A3/B3 and A3/B4 is TBN. You need a TBN of 8 or more to be A3/B3, but a TBN of 10 or more to be A3/B4.

Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Euro in 5w30 and 5w40 are marketed as being A3/B4-08 but only have a TBN of 7.3. Did the A3/B4 standard change?


I do like the look of most Kendall oil, but if I wanted a Euro oil I would go for a big name and use Castrol Edge or M1 in 0W-40.

Unfortunately for their Euro oil, Kendall is using the old 2008 ACEA sequences, and they should be using the up to date 2012 ACEA sequences. I don't understand why Kendall bother to make an out of date Euro oil.

Here is a link to the 2012 ACEA specs, it's where I got the TBN values mentioned:
http://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf

I do like the full synthetic Kendall GT-1 10W-30
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: shiny
Originally Posted By: SR5

The main difference between A3/B3 and A3/B4 is TBN. You need a TBN of 8 or more to be A3/B3, but a TBN of 10 or more to be A3/B4.

Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Euro in 5w30 and 5w40 are marketed as being A3/B4-08 but only have a TBN of 7.3. Did the A3/B4 standard change?


I do like the look of most Kendall oil, but if I wanted a Euro oil I would go for a big name and use Castrol Edge or M1 in 0W-40.

Unfortunately for their Euro oil, Kendall is using the old 2008 ACEA sequences, and they should be using the up to date 2012 ACEA sequences. I don't understand why Kendall bother to make an out of date Euro oil.

Here is a link to the 2012 ACEA specs, it's where I got the TBN values mentioned:
http://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf

I do like the full synthetic Kendall GT-1 10W-30

Thanks for the 2012 ACAE specs. What is it that you like about Kendall's full synthetic GT-1 10W-30?
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi


I don't find this to be very useful because these temps are not really COLD.


Some of them are for their respective grades.

The SAE 30 being tested at 10F (-12C)
The 10w-30 being tested at -17F (-27C) approaches the pumpability limit for the grade, which is -30C and is below the -25C CCS temperature.

I would have liked to see a 5w-30 along with the 5w-20 and to continue the trend at lower and lower temperatures but this is not my chart.


It's pretty useful in places like Australia, where even the straight 30 would be acceptable just about everywhere.

20W and 15W are a walk in the park anywhere here.

...


I agree, this is useful for Oz and most of the US, as well. I been among those asking why drivers in Florida and South Texas are running 0WXXs.

Just doesn't mean much to me...

The reason OEMs specify 0W-XX oils has little
to do extreme cold pumpability but rather being suitably light at more typical start-up/warm-up temp's. And it is the higher viscosity index of specified 0W-XX that is the reason.
You can safely use more rev's during warm-up with the specified 0W-XX than with a 5W-XX and considerably more than with a 10W-XX.
With a 0W-20, even at temp's of 32F, one can largely ignore a warm-up regimen. Just fire it up, put the vehicle in gear and take off. 3,000 rpm is no problem and since one can safely use more rev's warm-up time is shortened which aids in reducing engine wear during this critical period when most engine wear occurs.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

The reason OEMs specify 0W-XX oils has little
to do extreme cold pumpability but rather being suitably light at more typical start-up/warm-up temp's. And it is the higher viscosity index of specified 0W-XX that is the reason.
You can safely use more rev's during warm-up with the specified 0W-XX than with a 5W-XX and considerably more than with a 10W-XX.
With a 0W-20, even at temp's of 32F, one can largely ignore a warm-up regimen. Just fire it up, put the vehicle in gear and take off. 3,000 rpm is no problem and since one can safely use more rev's warm-up time is shortened which aids in reducing engine wear during this critical period when most engine wear occurs.


What exactly are these "problems" that are averted ?

Got any links to some evidence of them being actual problems ?

what's "safely" in context ?
 
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