10w30 synthetics?

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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Only thing I know to do with fuel dilution is to change often. No point in pricey oils if you are going to toss it at 3K ...


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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Just another thought...some of the revcent blackstone analysis show marked viscosity loss (10-40%), marked flashpoint loss, but still say negligible fuel...could that be part of it ?
Yes, if you are seeing a significant flashpoint reduction, there is fuel. I have zero faith in Blackstone's fuel measuring methodology.

So my S2000 has severe fuel dilution in the oil, most likely unburnt fuel sipped through the piston ring ?

How to eliminate or at least reduce the problem with fuel dilution ?


High performance engines tend to fuel dilute. This is usually factored into the lubricant selection and change interval by the OEM. How much flash point reduction you see points to how much fuel there really is. This doesn't mean your application has "severe" fuel dilution, it just means you probably have more than Blackstone says you do.

The other problem is, since you mix, you don't know what the virgin flashpoint for the blend is, which makes gleaning how much the flashpoint has actually dropped difficult.

Keep in mind, different labs measure fuel dilution differently (which is part of the problem). When I had the 0w-40 from my M5 tested, I saw a viscosity loss as well with the oil being 11.24cSt down from the 12.xx that the SM Canadian version was virgin, but it also showed 5% fuel, which explained most of that.

Next time maybe try a different lab and see if they show more fuel. That should help answer your question
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Just another thought...some of the revcent blackstone analysis show marked viscosity loss (10-40%), marked flashpoint loss, but still say negligible fuel...could that be part of it ?
Yes, if you are seeing a significant flashpoint reduction, there is fuel. I have zero faith in Blackstone's fuel measuring methodology.

So my S2000 has severe fuel dilution in the oil, most likely unburnt fuel sipped through the piston ring ?

How to eliminate or at least reduce the problem with fuel dilution ?


High performance engines tend to fuel dilute. This is usually factored into the lubricant selection and change interval by the OEM. How much flash point reduction you see points to how much fuel there really is. This doesn't mean your application has "severe" fuel dilution, it just means you probably have more than Blackstone says you do.

The other problem is, since you mix, you don't know what the virgin flashpoint for the blend is, which makes gleaning how much the flashpoint has actually dropped difficult.

Keep in mind, different labs measure fuel dilution differently (which is part of the problem). When I had the 0w-40 from my M5 tested, I saw a viscosity loss as well with the oil being 11.24cSt down from the 12.xx that the SM Canadian version was virgin, but it also showed 5% fuel, which explained most of that.

Next time maybe try a different lab and see if they show more fuel. That should help answer your question
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My Daihatsu engine, a 1.0 litre 3 cylinder N/A jobbie, with it's 69 HP, wasn't exactly what you would call 'a performance engine' (although it tried it's best!) yet it still dumped fuel in the sump.

The KV100 of my oil dropped from 8.7 cst (fresh) to 5.0 cst (used)!

One of the perverse things you can see with fuel dilution is that the presence of the ultra low viscosity fuel masks the fact that KV100 of the used-but-undiluted oil can be significantly higher than that of the fresh oil. As the fuel re-evaporates out of the oil as the engine warms up from cold, it effects an extractive distillation of the engine oil, preferentially removing the lightest part of the engine oil, whizzing it past the PCV, into the intake and on to be burnt. As a result, the oil that's left in the sump (before dilution) is heavier and more viscous.

Personally I would say more frequent dumping of fuel diluted oil is not a full answer to the problem. The oscillating dynamics of fuel dilution/re-evaporating kick in as soon as you've changed your oil. Of the two issues, it's not the dilution you should be concerned about (even with a KV100 of 5.0 cst after 15,500 miles, the wear metals in the oil were negligible), it's the re-evaporation bit that makes for serious long-term engine damage.

I repeat my advice to those folks who have this problem; use a oil with the lowest Noack you can lay your hands on..
 
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy



My Daihatsu engine, a 1.0 litre 3 cylinder N/A jobbie, with it's 69 HP, wasn't exactly what you would call 'a performance engine' (although it tried it's best!) yet it still dumped fuel in the sump.

The KV100 of my oil dropped from 8.7 cst (fresh) to 5.0 cst (used)!


For sure, I wasn't implying that only high performance engines diluted, simply that many or most of them do due to their factory rich tunes. Also, that may be a different mechanism for getting fuel in the oil than what was happening with your Daihatsu, as this is due to over-enrichment to mitigate spark knock, which leads to some fuel getting in the oil (and the low tension rings I'm sure aide in facilitating this) but may not be something the engine does all the time, whilst it sounds like your Daihatsu simply had a lot of blow-by that caused it.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
With passenger cars the technical reason for the 0W-20 grade first being specified was to deal with the increased wear in hybrid engines with Toyota and Honda. Remember the Prius was first spec'd for the 5W-30 grade.
To quote Nippon Oil who worked with Toyota and Honda to develop a suitable "hybrid oil";
"increased wear resulted from the constant on/off action of the engine, thicker oil will not be able to warm up (to temperature) properly. This could lead to unnecessary damage and wear. 0W-20's low viscosity is essential..."


I remember some other Japanese documentation talking about the wear issues resulting from the same push for thinner oils, I believe it was Honda? Also, the thinner oil isn't going to get up to temperature any faster either, it will just be closer to the desired viscosity than the 5w-30, which, in this specific application, sounds like it may be beneficial. However, as I said, anything pertaining to wear is engine-specific and this is a very specific application. Traditional warm-up does not resemble this duty cycle and there are numerous papers citing the primary source of wear during warm-up being start-up enrichment and the various expanding components like the out-of-round pistons.

For example, a document from the SAE:
http://papers.sae.org/600190/

Originally Posted By: SAE

Studies in laboratory engines equipped with radioactive piston rings show that wear is highest during a cold startup. Corrosion by condensed combustion products is responsible.

Engine operating variables and additives in fuels and motor oils influence corrosion and, therefore, startup wear. Long shutdown periods, low engine temperature, and high intake-air humidity increase wear. In fuels, antirusts offer some control; for example, an amine dialkyl phosphate eliminates 40% of the wear. In motor oils, detergents are the most helpful ingredients; barium salts of organo-phosphorus compounds or sulfonate-phenates lower wear 30%. But, taken together, antirust in the fuel and detergent in the motor oil do not reinforce each other.

Ample room remains for further improvement. Strong polar compounds that chemisorb and form tenacious protective films on metal surfaces do the best job. Particularly valuable would be fuel additives and motor-oil additives that work better together.


You will note that they do not suggest going to 0w-20 as a solution
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The SAE paper is suggesting 'all or most' of cold startup wear is corrosion wear, not adhesive wear.

If so, does it mean adhesive wear in cold startup wear is insignificant or negligible , all the more so for hybrid car engines ?

Was the increased wear in hybrid engines (in Toyota and Honda) quoted above, mainly or solely corrosion wear, and not adhesive wear?



Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
After a couple of years and the durability of this new engine oil was established, the reduced wear and fuel economy benefits was seen to be beneficial for all engines so Toyota, Honda and others started specifying the grade for non hybrid models as well. The rest as they say is history.


I think it was Shannow who provided the documentation that stated "acceptable" levels of wear with this lubricant in the applications it was back-spec'd for, not improved wear protection/performance. I'll let him address that with you though as you two have a bit of a history on that one.




Could the 'claimed' reduced wear on Toyota and Honda engines using Nippon Oil/'Hybrid oil' are reduced corrosion wear (and not reduced adhesive wear) being overcome with stronger 'anti-corrosion' additive package in hybrid oils, where viscosity of oils play no roles whatsoever ?

Shannow has a good point in suggesting relatively lower oil viscosity causes increased adhesive wear, though 'acceptable' to some parties .... for whatever dubious reasons.
 
If you do a comparison of a 5w30 synthetic to a 10w30 synthetic, there is very little difference between the two, almost identical flow rates. Check the ones on pqiamerica, they prove this.

I would fathom to say that a 1030 syn. has identical flow rates to a conventional 5w30 with an even low temp flow feasibility and the added benefits of what a synthetic offers. So if 5w30 conventional is good enough on the cold side of things, why wouldn't a 10w30 synthetic be?

It is said that 10w30 in many cases has very little to no VI improvers, I am sure that's not entirely true for all makes but if that is the case and your engine is prone to rip VI improvers to shreds such as Nissan's VQ engines and mechanical shearing, a 10w30 syn might be a good alternative, just throwing that out there.

Would it take the oil longer to pump up to the rocker arms vs. a 5w30 synthetic, maybe, but vs. a 5w30 conventional, I would go with no, it would be about the same.

10w30 in synthetic form still has a niche in my opinion, it wouldn't bother me one bit to put it in my 14' Ram 3.6L, I run a 5w30 Pennz. Blend in it now (manual allows 5w30, but wants 5w20 for café). Now if we are talking blends or conventionals, sure there is a measurable difference between 5w30 and 10w30. Its just not as pronounced in their synthetic forms.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: Red91
My 20W-50 conventional flowed fine this morning at 35-40 degrees F. Just saying.


are you trying to wash out your crank bearings or do you not know better?


? The 20W designation is qualified for at -20C for MRV and -15C for CCS, he was well above both of those temperatures. Perhaps not an ideal choice for the application but it was within the acceptable temperature range for the Winter rating of the lubricant.

20w-50 is just fine. A taxi cab company near me (in Miami) uses that grade on their fleet of crown vics.
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif

20w-50 is just fine. A taxi cab company near me (in Miami) uses that grade on their fleet of crown vics.


I agree.

I've used lots of 20W-50 & 20W-60 mineral oil, plus lots of 10W-60 synthetic. As long as you don't have extreme cold starts, it works fine.

Now days I would probably go a 15W-40 mineral or a xW-30 synthetic.

People seem scared of the thick stuff, but it still does it's job in many countries around the world.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
10W-30 is nearly the ideal oil for much of the mixed fleet use in Calif. Truckee, Susanville and Mammoth could use a 0W-30 in the winter. But thousands of skiers cars start just fine on 5W and 10W, even up there ...

Certainly, but a 5w-30 ILSAC will help CAFE credits over a 10w-30. A 0w-30 will be counterproductive because everyone will use GC and throw a wrench into the fuel economy numbers.
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Why can't we just like what we like, and not fight about it? If you like 0W-20, then fine, use it. Same if you like 10W-30. I've used a little of it all, and prefer thicker, old school grades, but that's just me. 10W-40, 20W-50, and SAE 30 make me happy, but I've also got some synthetic 5W-30, 0W-20, and conventional 10W30 in my oil supply. That being said, once I use the thinner stuff, I probably won't buy anymore of it. Again, that's my preference, and we don't need to fight about it.
 
Not just Amsoil, the Valvoline ML 10w30 and Pennzoil 10w30 syns have a NOACK between 4-6%.
 
I'll probably stick with 10w-30 if I stay in a warm climate. Debating picking up with Platinum or Ultra next time around, though I doubt I will have a need for it unless my mileage per year increases beyond 8k miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: KingCake
You're comparing different temps. 5W30 is *always* going to reach rocker quicker than 10w30 no matter the temp.


Nope, not even close.

the W ratings are for the abiility for the oil to be pumped in the first place, and for engine cranking requirements.

In the example shown, the 5W30 at -1c would NOT beat the SAE 30, as the oil is pumpable in the first instance, and the positive displacement pump will shift the same volume of oil for every revolution until the galleries are filled.

But if you can find some evidence that supports your statement, I'd be happy to be proven wrong.

The Esso cold flow videos at -35 or -40C demonstrate what happens below the pumpability limits, not what happens on pumpable oil.



Still waiting on KingCake's technical reply to Shannow's challenge. It's been 9 days. And stating the same thing yet again w/o substantiation in the Rebate/Coupon Forum doesn't quite get there.
 
Have 10W30 in my Tundra at the moment, still quite new on this OCI, started fine at 26F. Might have cranked slower, dunno, but 26F is not that cold for 10W.

Only reason I'm running it is a) wanted to try a 30, and b) at $2.17/qt it was hard to resist. Come summer I know it won't matter; come winter I'll get an 0Wxx back into it. I usually do mile based OCI's but sometimes I wonder if changing in spring after a bunch of cold starts might not be a bad thing.
 
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Still waiting on KingCake's technical reply to Shannow's challenge. It's been 9 days. And stating the same thing yet again w/o substantiation in the Rebate/Coupon Forum doesn't quite get there.


There's a handful of posters that keep that strategy...you'll hear lots of crickets chirping waiting for them to answer.
 
Originally Posted By: car51
Yeah, I am really thinking of running a jug of the PUP 10w30 in the Focus.
I have some Penn Ultra pre natural gas I got from AZ on clearance. Ill run in the Civic and Impala next for the summer. Im sure itll be fine
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Still waiting on KingCake's technical reply to Shannow's challenge.

So am I.


Glad someone else noticed. Let me know!
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
I don't find this to be very useful because these temps are not really COLD.

If you want cold, watch this video, though you've likely seen it:

...


Yeah, that's a good one!

Also, thanks to Shannow for posting the link to some cold oil tech papers with real meat...I'm going to have to find a good block of time to stare at them before I can really get much out of them, unfortunately.


I did read the paper that I THINK Shannow was pointing me to and its basic conclusion seemed to be that gallery pressurization times at extreme cold correlated well with MRV viscosities and not very well with gel indices (which I take to basically be pour points).
Is this the one I was supposed to read?
 
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