10w30 synthetics?

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Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Doesn't PYB 10W30 have a really low NOACK, just above 4%?
Seems like a good budget choice in the right climate.


What's the right climate for 10W30?

I might try PYB 10W-30 next. My car is spec'd for 0W-20 all the way to 20W-50 in different markets.
 
Originally Posted By: cookiemonster

What's the right climate for 10W30?


I ran 10W-30 conventional year round in 318 (5.2L) and 360 (5.9L) Dodge pickups in South Texas and Southeast Louisiana.

In Northern Ohio, I used 5W-30 conventional for the coldest 3 to 6 months of the year and 10W-30 conventional the rest of the year.
 
Why is it that everyone seems to worry about how fast a cold, viscous oil can get to where it is needed under pressure, yet no-one ever worries about how fast it can flow back to the sump assisted only by gravity?
 
Maybe sump capacity, along with heat imparted to the oil as it circulates?

My prior trucks had 5 quart sumps on engines that stood the test of time for decades, my current truck has a 7 quart sump on an engine that has stood the test of a decade and a half in production.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Why is it that everyone seems to worry about how fast a cold, viscous oil can get to where it is needed under pressure, yet no-one ever worries about how fast it can flow back to the sump assisted only by gravity?


Because by definition, if it can flow to the pick-up, it can flow back there.

That's what the MRV is, the ability to "flow" under gravity to the pickup and up the tube.

Have you ever seen a cold engine sump pumped dry ?
 
Originally Posted By: cookiemonster

What's the right climate for 10W30?


Well any hot climate should be fine for regular use, as for cold, I don't have my tables with me, but under the old rule a 10W oil was good down to 0F (-18 C) but the new rule pushes this even lower. Don't forget you need to have a healthy battery.

Just found this:
Originally Posted By: BobFout

SAE J300 was revised some few years ago. 10W is now spec'd at -30C for pumping and -25C for cranking.


This is a great thread from dustyroads who started his truck at -22 F with 10W-30
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3998138/1
It also has some great tables from Shannow

That thread is definitely worth a read.
 
Originally Posted By: shiny

Thanks for the 2012 ACAE specs. What is it that you like about Kendall's full synthetic GT-1 10W-30?


Well for 10W-30 full synthetics in general you have
Originally Posted By: SR5

I like 10W-30 synthetic oils ...The advantages are it should have a low VII load and be more shear stable, plus a low noack volatility. I've seen 10W-30 synthetics with a noack of 6 to 7% and probably without using exotic GTL or PAO base stock.


This was talked about a lot on the first page.

I think Kendall is just a good example of the breed.
It has a HTHS of 3.1 a TBN of 8.0 with 850 ppm Zinc and 100 ppm Titanium.

Probably lots of good 10W-30 oils out there, but Kendall interests me the most because it's the only full synthetic 10W-30 oil I can find in Australia. All the rest are semi-synthetics out this way.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Because by definition, if it can flow to the pick-up, it can flow back there.

That's what the MRV is, the ability to "flow" under gravity to the pickup and up the tube.

Exactly, and that's what the Esso video does show at the end, where MRV limits have been exceeded. It might not flow back, but it can't flow into the pickup to replace the few blobs that have already been "pumped" in the first place.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5


Probably lots of good 10W-30 oils out there, but Kendall interests me the most because it's the only full synthetic 10W-30 oil I can find in Australia. All the rest are semi-synthetics out this way.


Yu can get Redline in Australia, their 10w30 is very stout.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
Originally Posted By: SR5


Probably lots of good 10W-30 oils out there, but Kendall interests me the most because it's the only full synthetic 10W-30 oil I can find in Australia. All the rest are semi-synthetics out this way.


Yu can get Redline in Australia, their 10w30 is very stout.


That sounds like something I would be interested in, I'll look into it. Thanks mate.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
CATERHAM said:
Pennzoil Q&A:
Quote:
Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX SAE 0W-30 is due to launch in North America in the beginning of 2015


I think this oil is probably good fit for my S2000, but they are nowhere to be found.

PP Euro LX SN 0W-30 has been available for a while now NA wide.
The problem is that oil retailers aren't ordering it so you'll have to source it yourself from a Shell/Pennzoil distributor in your area. The six quart pack part # is 550043061-6.
A member in Tennessee got a price of $7.43/qt including tax but his local distributor would only order it in if he bought a 24 qt case with includes 4 six packs. (I guess the distributor didn't want to be left with a couple of six packs he couldn't sell.)
Here in Canada a member had no problem buying a couple of six packs, so it's what you can negotiate with the wholesale distributor.

That said, while PP Euro LX 0W-30 is way lighter on start-up than PP 10W-30 (the cross-over around 120F) it's still a 3.5cP HTHSV oil which is heavier than you need for a street driven S2000. I'd likely cut it 50/50 with a high VI 0W-20 to give you a lighter 0W-30 with a much less restricted oil flow during warm-up for your high reving S2000.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

The reason OEMs specify 0W-XX oils has little
to do extreme cold pumpability but rather being suitably light at more typical start-up/warm-up temp's. And it is the higher viscosity index of specified 0W-XX that is the reason.
You can safely use more rev's during warm-up with the specified 0W-XX than with a 5W-XX and considerably more than with a 10W-XX.
With a 0W-20, even at temp's of 32F, one can largely ignore a warm-up regimen. Just fire it up, put the vehicle in gear and take off. 3,000 rpm is no problem and since one can safely use more rev's warm-up time is shortened which aids in reducing engine wear during this critical period when most engine wear occurs.


So the various metal components, of different sizes, weights and materials (which, combined with the dilution of fuel due to the start-up enrichment, blow-by due to poorer piston fitment and the heat activated components not being activated yet result in start-up wear) all just magically skip some of their warm up resize phase with 0w-20 in the sump?

Do you have data from a reputable source demonstrating that running an engine at higher RPM's to "shorten the warm-up" is:

A) Beneficial in actually reducing wear
B) Shows reduced wear with a lubricant that is thinner than a similarly additized lubricant with a 5w or 10w Winter rating?

Otherwise this sounds like a completely fabricated anecdote to support the high VI agenda.

The benefits of less drag and greater fuel efficiency and subsequently lower emissions are I think we can all agree, real. However when we start to wander off into talk of wear and rev's; talk that will be, by its vary nature, engine-specific and then try to tie in metrics of how high VI lubricants are mitigating the primarily start-up enriched metal expansion phase of the warm-up process it starts to smell a lot less like science and tangible benefits and a lot more like bovine excrement.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

The reason OEMs specify 0W-XX oils has little
to do extreme cold pumpability but rather being suitably light at more typical start-up/warm-up temp's. And it is the higher viscosity index of specified 0W-XX that is the reason.
You can safely use more rev's during warm-up with the specified 0W-XX than with a 5W-XX and considerably more than with a 10W-XX.
With a 0W-20, even at temp's of 32F, one can largely ignore a warm-up regimen. Just fire it up, put the vehicle in gear and take off. 3,000 rpm is no problem and since one can safely use more rev's warm-up time is shortened which aids in reducing engine wear during this critical period when most engine wear occurs.


So the various metal components, of different sizes, weights and materials (which, combined with the dilution of fuel due to the start-up enrichment, blow-by due to poorer piston fitment and the heat activated components not being activated yet result in start-up wear) all just magically skip some of their warm up resize phase with 0w-20 in the sump?

Do you have data from a reputable source demonstrating that running an engine at higher RPM's to "shorten the warm-up" is:

A) Beneficial in actually reducing wear
B) Shows reduced wear with a lubricant that is thinner than a similarly additized lubricant with a 5w or 10w Winter rating?

Otherwise this sounds like a completely fabricated anecdote to support the high VI agenda.

The benefits of less drag and greater fuel efficiency and subsequently lower emissions are I think we can all agree, real. However when we start to wander off into talk of wear and rev's; talk that will be, by its vary nature, engine-specific and then try to tie in metrics of how high VI lubricants are mitigating the primarily start-up enriched metal expansion phase of the warm-up process it starts to smell a lot less like science and tangible benefits and a lot more like bovine excrement.

As if you would know.
It's an indisputable fact that the principal limiting factor determinimg how many rev's one can safely use without incurring increased engine wear during warm-up is the actual operational viscosity of the oil. During warm-up the coolant may reach low normal temp's but the oil in the sump can easily lag by 80 degrees F even at room temperature and more at lower ambient starting temp's. There is a maximum operational viscosity which decreases as rpms increase to provide the required volume of oil flowing in an engine to provide adequate lubrication. The principle is of course well established in racing, which is why so-called 0W-2 and 0W-5 oils are used when sump oil temp's barely get above 100F.

With passenger cars the technical reason for the 0W-20 grade first being specified was to deal with the increased wear in hybrid engines with Toyota and Honda. Remember the Prius was first spec'd for the 5W-30 grade.
To quote Nippon Oil who worked with Toyota and Honda to develop a suitable "hybrid oil";
"increased wear resulted from the constant on/off action of the engine, thicker oil will not be able to warm up (to temperature) properly. This could lead to unnecessary damage and wear. 0W-20's low viscosity is essential..."

For those that recall, the originally specified 0W-20 grade was often called a "hybrid oil" as that was the only cars it was originally spec'd for.
The big advantage of the Japanese 0W-20s was their very high viscosity index's of 200+ with a KV40 under 40cSt. TGMO 0W-20 was/is nominally 37-38cSt vs 58-63cSt for a 5W-30 and 47-49cSt for a 5W-20. This provided greatly improved oil flow on start-up and during warm-up when the oil was often not up to the fully hot normal temperature.

After a couple of years and the durability of this new engine oil was established, the reduced wear and fuel economy benefits was seen to be beneficial for all engines so Toyota, Honda and others started specifying the grade for non hybrid models as well. The rest as they say is history.

So you have two choices. If you are using a heavier low VI oil you must wait for the oil to heat up and thin out sufficiently to use higher rev's or you can use a lighter higher VI oil in the first place.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

As if you would know.
It's an indisputable fact that the principal limiting factor determinimg how many rev's one can safely use without incurring increased engine wear during warm-up is the actual operational viscosity of the oil.


OK, I'l bite, "Indisputable facts" make it relatively easy to support one's position with data, available.

I've been asking you for data on this position for a half a decade, and you NEVER bring anything but the occasional advertising puff piece to the table.

CATERHAM, please put somethin g out there to support your position.

(Relatively) cold oil has a higher viscosity, greater minimum oil film thickness, and less reliance on the additives that require heat to activate in reducing wear.

Please provide your indisputable eveidence to the contracry, and that thinner oils provide improved wear prior to the activation of additives.


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
During warm-up the coolant may reach low normal temp's but the oil in the sump can easily lag by 80 degrees F even at room temperature and more at lower ambient starting temp's. There is a maximum operational viscosity which decreases as rpms increase to provide the required volume of oil flowing in an engine to provide adequate lubrication. The principle is of course well established in racing, which is why so-called 0W-2 and 0W-5 oils are used when sump oil temp's barely get above 100F.


Can you provide some data on the "maximum operational viscosity ?

Again, flow doesn't lubricate...if the oil is there, bearings will draw what they need from the galleries...they are amply and sufficiently lubricated. (of course, at the limits of pumpability (the W rating), it doesn't work...but you have expressly excluded that from discussion the last few days).

So called 0W2and 0W5 are a made up marketting fulff, and have nothing to do with engine warmup, the topic of 10W30, but are simply friction reduction strategies in engines that you are not expecting to last more than a few operational hours.




Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
With passenger cars the technical reason for the 0W-20 grade first being specified was to deal with the increased wear in hybrid engines with Toyota and Honda. Remember the Prius was first spec'd for the 5W-30 grade.


Rubbish, the Japanese OEM papers all start with "improvements in economy", or "reduction in greenhouse emissions.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
To quote Nippon Oil who worked with Toyota and Honda to develop a suitable "hybrid oil";
"increased wear resulted from the constant on/off action of the engine, thicker oil will not be able to warm up (to temperature) properly. This could lead to unnecessary damage and wear. 0W-20's low viscosity is essential..."


I've searched a number of times for that quote, and can't find it on line...I think again, it's one of your advertising puff pieces, but if you can link a paper to it, I'll have a look.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
For those that recall, the originally specified 0W-20 grade was often called a "hybrid oil" as that was the only cars it was originally spec'd for.
The big advantage of the Japanese 0W-20s was their very high viscosity index's of 200+ with a KV40 under 40cSt. TGMO 0W-20 was/is nominally 37-38cSt vs 58-63cSt for a 5W-30 and 47-49cSt for a 5W-20. This provided greatly improved oil flow on start-up and during warm-up when the oil was often not up to the fully hot normal temperature.


Again, you keep stating that flow equals lubrication...it doesn't.

In any suitably pumpable oil, the galleries will fill at the same time...they "flow" the same regardless of viscosity.

When full, the bearings draw that which they need from the full galleries, they might not absorb the full volume of the oil pump, but they don't need to. They are amply and sufficiently lubricated.

Squirters are pressure/density devices, the lower pressures that you extol reduce their flow.

Do you have any evidence that jamming the entire oil pump volume through the engine reduces wear ?

I've asked repeatedly...

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
After a couple of years and the durability of this new engine oil was established, the reduced wear and fuel economy benefits was seen to be beneficial for all engines so Toyota, Honda and others started specifying the grade for non hybrid models as well. The rest as they say is history.


Again, provide your evidence of "the reduced wear"...I've repeatedly asked you to defend this posit...but you ignore it.

You must have something available that gives some evidence.

In the very long used oil camshaft wear thread a while ago, you immediately brought in the "oil thinned, reducing wear" position in spite of having not read the paper (it thickened out of grade).

Are these "facts" in the CATERHAM universe, or are they available to the rest of us ?

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
So you have two choices. If you are using a heavier low VI oil you must wait for the oil to heat up and thin out sufficiently to use higher rev's or you can use a lighter higher VI oil in the first place.


Again, from a few posts back...evidence of the above ?

How can I not use full revs on a 60cst oil but can on a 40 ?

Where the data supporting that ?

You've quoted many failed engines o the racetrack to support this posit, but have repeatedly refused to even describe the incidents.
 
Quote:
So you have two choices. If you are using a heavier low VI oil you must wait for the oil to heat up and thin out sufficiently to use higher rev's or you can use a lighter higher VI oil in the first place.
You forgot a third option. Live in a warmer climate than Caterham. My 10w-30 was thinner than your TGMO 0w-20 this morning. If I have to wait to rev, you have to do the same thing.
 
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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

As if you would know.


Right back at ya. As if YOU would know! LOL!!! Glad to see that your absence from the board hasn't reduced the level at which you are willing to sling mud though
wink.gif


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
It's an indisputable fact that the principal limiting factor determinimg how many rev's one can safely use without incurring increased engine wear during warm-up is the actual operational viscosity of the oil.


Got a link to some supporting documentation? Sorry if I don't take your word for it being an "indisputable fact"
smirk.gif


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
During warm-up the coolant may reach low normal temp's but the oil in the sump can easily lag by 80 degrees F even at room temperature and more at lower ambient starting temp's.


Yes, unless one has heat exchanger that is heated by the coolant, which many modern examples have.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
There is a maximum operational viscosity which decreases as rpms increase to provide the required volume of oil flowing in an engine to provide adequate lubrication. The principle is of course well established in racing, which is why so-called 0W-2 and 0W-5 oils are used when sump oil temp's barely get above 100F.


Lighter oils are often used in qualifying and sprints where oil temps won't get high enough and subsequently the potential for power loss due to increased viscosity is real. NASCAR does the same running ultra thin qualifying oils that are then swapped out for heavier oils for the main event (for durability). It is about getting the best qualifying time there, not about the oil volume at 7,000RPM being an issue.

However, we are talking about street cars here, not qualifying for NASCAR or Unicorn racing oils used in engines that are frequently rebuilt.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
With passenger cars the technical reason for the 0W-20 grade first being specified was to deal with the increased wear in hybrid engines with Toyota and Honda. Remember the Prius was first spec'd for the 5W-30 grade.
To quote Nippon Oil who worked with Toyota and Honda to develop a suitable "hybrid oil";
"increased wear resulted from the constant on/off action of the engine, thicker oil will not be able to warm up (to temperature) properly. This could lead to unnecessary damage and wear. 0W-20's low viscosity is essential..."


I remember some other Japanese documentation talking about the wear issues resulting from the same push for thinner oils, I believe it was Honda? Also, the thinner oil isn't going to get up to temperature any faster either, it will just be closer to the desired viscosity than the 5w-30, which, in this specific application, sounds like it may be beneficial. However, as I said, anything pertaining to wear is engine-specific and this is a very specific application. Traditional warm-up does not resemble this duty cycle and there are numerous papers citing the primary source of wear during warm-up being start-up enrichment and the various expanding components like the out-of-round pistons.

For example, a document from the SAE:
http://papers.sae.org/600190/

Originally Posted By: SAE

Studies in laboratory engines equipped with radioactive piston rings show that wear is highest during a cold startup. Corrosion by condensed combustion products is responsible.

Engine operating variables and additives in fuels and motor oils influence corrosion and, therefore, startup wear. Long shutdown periods, low engine temperature, and high intake-air humidity increase wear. In fuels, antirusts offer some control; for example, an amine dialkyl phosphate eliminates 40% of the wear. In motor oils, detergents are the most helpful ingredients; barium salts of organo-phosphorus compounds or sulfonate-phenates lower wear 30%. But, taken together, antirust in the fuel and detergent in the motor oil do not reinforce each other.

Ample room remains for further improvement. Strong polar compounds that chemisorb and form tenacious protective films on metal surfaces do the best job. Particularly valuable would be fuel additives and motor-oil additives that work better together.


You will note that they do not suggest going to 0w-20 as a solution
wink.gif


Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
For those that recall, the originally specified 0W-20 grade was often called a "hybrid oil" as that was the only cars it was originally spec'd for.
The big advantage of the Japanese 0W-20s was their very high viscosity index's of 200+ with a KV40 under 40cSt. TGMO 0W-20 was/is nominally 37-38cSt vs 58-63cSt for a 5W-30 and 47-49cSt for a 5W-20. This provided greatly improved oil flow on start-up and during warm-up when the oil was often not up to the fully hot normal temperature.


And the advantage of that, by extension, is increased fuel economy through lower drag and oil being closer to the desired operating viscosity. I have no issue with that, I do however have issues with your claims that it reduces start-up wear when the documentation I've seen does not support that nor even mention it as a contributing factor.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
After a couple of years and the durability of this new engine oil was established, the reduced wear and fuel economy benefits was seen to be beneficial for all engines so Toyota, Honda and others started specifying the grade for non hybrid models as well. The rest as they say is history.


I think it was Shannow who provided the documentation that stated "acceptable" levels of wear with this lubricant in the applications it was back-spec'd for, not improved wear protection/performance. I'll let him address that with you though as you two have a bit of a history on that one.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
So you have two choices. If you are using a heavier low VI oil you must wait for the oil to heat up and thin out sufficiently to use higher rev's or you can use a lighter higher VI oil in the first place.


Well, that brings me back to my 2nd point regarding some documentation to support that claim. I've cited the SAE so far, can you please provide something equally credible to back this please? Thanks.
 
Thank you OVERKILL and SHANNOW for the "real, facts and info". I'll stick with 10w30 for the jeep and possibly 5w30 for the focus
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
PP Euro LX SN 0W-30 has been available for a while now NA wide. The problem is that oil retailers aren't ordering it so you'll have to source it yourself from a Shell/Pennzoil distributor in your area. The six quart pack part # is 550043061-6.

That said, while PP Euro LX 0W-30 is way lighter on start-up than PP 10W-30 (the cross-over around 120F) it's still a 3.5cP HTHSV oil which is heavier than you need for a street driven S2000. I'd likely cut it 50/50 with a high VI 0W-20 to give you a lighter 0W-30 with a much less restricted oil flow during warm-up for your high reving S2000.

I had couple UOA's of my S2000 within 6 months. The first one was a mix of Castrol 50-50 0W40 and 0W20 and second was PP 10W30. Both times the oil sheared out of xW30 grade with very little fuel dilution after only 4-4.5k miles.

I think my S2000 needs heavy 30 grade with around 3.4-3.5 HTHS. Either I buy this PP Euro LX 0W-30 from a Shell distributor or mixing M1 or Castrol Edge with ratio of 75% 0W40 25% 0W20.
 
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HTSS_TR,
your HTHS drops about half the percentage drop of the KV100...lose 10% KV, and about 5% HTHS.

You know where I'm positioned on mixing and predicable outcomes, but I understand your objectives...maybe instead of a 0W40/0W20 combo, you could start with a 10W40 for the starting grade, and a lot less VIIs to start with.
 
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