The one and only time I've had real success with GG was redoing the door cards on my car. However, that was after having to drill a hole through the bottle and hardened glue to let out what liquid was left. Other than that one miracle chance my experience with GG has been like everything mechtech2 said. For large work I usually mix up some JB Weld, smaller stuff gets CA. I don't have much experience with gluing wood.
gorilla glue, is it that great?
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GG is messy, which is it's biggest draw back. Also, it has a short shelf life. I used to use it some in woodworking, but since Titebond III came out, there isn't much need.
I usually keep some around in case I need to bond dissimilar materials.
I did use it a few years ago to double stack 2 angle brackets to mount a trans filter on, and it is still holding to this day under the hood.
I usually keep some around in case I need to bond dissimilar materials.
I did use it a few years ago to double stack 2 angle brackets to mount a trans filter on, and it is still holding to this day under the hood.
Titebond III is softer than the old Titebond. For some applications, it is worse than before.
Luthier repairs come to mind.
Luthier repairs come to mind.
I've never repaired musical instruments, but I've literally hammered on TB III and the wood broke first.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Titebond III is softer than the old Titebond. For some applications, it is worse than before.
Luthier repairs come to mind.
That is what I learned on my internet quest of Titebond glues, but not sure if "softer" is the correct description. While you move up the line from regular to type III, you gain a VERY tiny amount of bond strength, but the amount of "creep" also increases. Creep is described as the "plastic", or movement of the glue joint under stress and heat. So, a violin neck under string tension, sitting in a car window, could literally come apart. No PVA glues are recommended for structural repairs due to this "plastic" nature under heat/stress.
Here is something that will shock you Tempest about the so called water proofness of Titebond III: assuming this guy is who he claims...... http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/differences-between-titebond-glues/ Hugh D Evans near the bottom......quote:
"I stumbled across this page while searching for good published examples of Titebond II’s long term durability when used in exterior applications and couldn’t resist chiming in… I’m a Technical Specialist with Franklin International.
Titebond III was designed to pass the ANSI/HPVA Type I water resistance specification, which doesn’t entail great water resistance so much as high temperature water resistance. This makes it uniquely well suited to applications where steam or boiling water may be encountered, the best example being cutting boards. Despite the fact that no one recommends it, when your cutting board finally runs through a dishwasher it won’t delaminate if you used Titebond III.
Under typical environmental conditions Titebond II and Titebond III are equally resistant to water. However, Titebond III exhibits greater thermal plasticity, which is a technical way of expressing that it loses more strength as temperature increases. Since all PVA adhesives form a plastic film when dried this plastic will effectively melt once a sufficiently high temperature is reached. Titebond Original and Titebond II lose about 50% of their strength at 150"
Study their website regarding II vs. III and they say the only reason to choose III is if you need more working time or lower temp. use. Both are "water resistant". Strength differences are marginal to none.
Their marketing infers good, "premium", and "ultimate", regarding regular, II, and III. But investigation reveals a different story. Cabinet/furniture makers are better off with the regular, not the III, to avoid joint "creep". Some people have chastised Franklin for advertising "waterproof ultimate" glue, when the above quote and their website mention water "resistant".
To me, I don't specialized enough and it makes no difference. But it seems the extra cost of III is not warranted (like synthetic oil vs. dino for a 3k OCI, average conditions).
Titebond III is softer than the old Titebond. For some applications, it is worse than before.
Luthier repairs come to mind.
That is what I learned on my internet quest of Titebond glues, but not sure if "softer" is the correct description. While you move up the line from regular to type III, you gain a VERY tiny amount of bond strength, but the amount of "creep" also increases. Creep is described as the "plastic", or movement of the glue joint under stress and heat. So, a violin neck under string tension, sitting in a car window, could literally come apart. No PVA glues are recommended for structural repairs due to this "plastic" nature under heat/stress.
Here is something that will shock you Tempest about the so called water proofness of Titebond III: assuming this guy is who he claims...... http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/differences-between-titebond-glues/ Hugh D Evans near the bottom......quote:
"I stumbled across this page while searching for good published examples of Titebond II’s long term durability when used in exterior applications and couldn’t resist chiming in… I’m a Technical Specialist with Franklin International.
Titebond III was designed to pass the ANSI/HPVA Type I water resistance specification, which doesn’t entail great water resistance so much as high temperature water resistance. This makes it uniquely well suited to applications where steam or boiling water may be encountered, the best example being cutting boards. Despite the fact that no one recommends it, when your cutting board finally runs through a dishwasher it won’t delaminate if you used Titebond III.
Under typical environmental conditions Titebond II and Titebond III are equally resistant to water. However, Titebond III exhibits greater thermal plasticity, which is a technical way of expressing that it loses more strength as temperature increases. Since all PVA adhesives form a plastic film when dried this plastic will effectively melt once a sufficiently high temperature is reached. Titebond Original and Titebond II lose about 50% of their strength at 150"
Study their website regarding II vs. III and they say the only reason to choose III is if you need more working time or lower temp. use. Both are "water resistant". Strength differences are marginal to none.
Their marketing infers good, "premium", and "ultimate", regarding regular, II, and III. But investigation reveals a different story. Cabinet/furniture makers are better off with the regular, not the III, to avoid joint "creep". Some people have chastised Franklin for advertising "waterproof ultimate" glue, when the above quote and their website mention water "resistant".
To me, I don't specialized enough and it makes no difference. But it seems the extra cost of III is not warranted (like synthetic oil vs. dino for a 3k OCI, average conditions).
Great info and thanks for posting that. I don't use the TB III for the water"proof" aspect but the long open time is nice. I only use a couple bottles a year so the price difference isn't that huge for me, but a cabinet shop would be a different story.
TB III is more watery so that is probably how they get the longer open time.
It would be very unusual to have a cabinet get to 150F. I have repaired a cutting board with GG and it did hold up nicely.
TB III is more watery so that is probably how they get the longer open time.
It would be very unusual to have a cabinet get to 150F. I have repaired a cutting board with GG and it did hold up nicely.
As a cabinetmaker, I use gallons of Tightbond II every year. No failures, no fouls. TB III is watery junk as is GG. The only uses for GG would be joining dissimilar materials with a less than perfect fit requiring minimal strength. Not very gorilla like, is it?
Originally Posted By: 97prizm
Popular Mechanics Tested their tape and it hands down beat the competition.-Malcolm
I believe it, Gorilla Tape is awesome stuff, like duct tape on steroids. However, I've never been impressed with Gorilla Glue.
Popular Mechanics Tested their tape and it hands down beat the competition.-Malcolm
I believe it, Gorilla Tape is awesome stuff, like duct tape on steroids. However, I've never been impressed with Gorilla Glue.
I've been boiling Gorillas for a week and still not very sticky...
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I've been boiling Gorillas for a week and still not very sticky...
IIRC, you have to have them peeled and squeezed first. HTH.
I've been boiling Gorillas for a week and still not very sticky...
IIRC, you have to have them peeled and squeezed first. HTH.
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