Why is using HPL for short drain intervals a waste?

I would not feel comfortable using a synthetic blend oil ( closest thing to non synthetic oil 0w20 since they don’t make a totally non synthetic 0w20 ) in a 3.3 litre oil sump GDI engine regardless what the OLM says unless verified by UOA.

That would be the cheapest oil I could use in my car but I wouldn’t trust it.
Is there even a synthetic blend 0W20? Perhaps a little off topic, but is there even a penny to be saved using any blend these days???
 
Is there even a synthetic blend 0W20? Perhaps a little off topic, but is there even a penny to be saved using any blend these days???
You can buy synthetic blend 0w20 which is the viscosity my GDI recommends ( I use higher viscosity ). I usually buy all my oil from Amsoil and even they offer it now.

I agree with you but my point was that anyone who says you can use the cheapest oil ( all Honda says is to use 0w20 oil, they don’t say it has to be full synthetic ) oil suitable for your engine ( especially a extremely small sump GDI engine ) and it doesn’t matter ( you will save money and engine life will not be impacted ) doesn’t seem smart ( the idea, not the person, to use the cheapest in certain situations ) given how hard those engines can be on oil.

It might be overkill to use boutique oils ( when doing regular oil drain intervals based on the OLM ) but it might not be wise to use the cheapest either which would be 0w20 synthetic blend in my GDI engines case.

I was replying to a comment someone else said about you can put any ( suitable ) oil in your engine and it won’t matter based on what Blackstone said ( doesn’t matter if you use synthetic oil versus non synthetic ).

I could be wrong but I wouldn’t take a chance putting the cheapest suitable ( I drive a lot, I go through a lot of oil ….40 quarts per year with 3 cars ) oil in my 3.3 litre oil sump GDI.

No disrespect to anyone, just having a discussion.

Edit: I just checked the price difference between full synthetic and blend and it’s half the price, not just a few Pennies. I would save about $400 per year given how much I drive.
 
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As written about elsewhere, I bought a lubrication basket-case of a gen 1 3.5 ecoboost (heavy sludge scraped out by mechanic, “good luck!”). Ran number of oils through it in effort to clean, filters slowly improved, until discovered hpl and ran it. The amount of filter debris was stunning. Have gone from every 500mi, 750mi, 1250mi, 1600mi, to now starting 2500mi filter changes. Think just turned 30k total on hpl? So there’s that, plus the robust hths numbers are attractive given the silly long timing chains, and expense to replace again, on these. Run hpl pcmo 5w40 summer, prem plus 0w40 winter.

So for my application, 5k hpl changes seem a reasonable expense. Maybe when i get filter debris down to allow 5k mi filter changes, might consider going longer.
 
We use HPL in our CX-90 and wont be going more than 7500 miles max on OCI and that would only be if a UOA supports that extension given my suspicions about fuel dilution. If you are only looking at it through the lens of dollars and cents, even with the BITOG 15% discount code, it costs probably twice what say a jug and some quarts of Mobil1 EP would and for our short (5K) OCIs Mobil1EP would probably be fine, but I'll spend an extra $40 every 6 months to support a good company that is active/helpful here and because I will enjoy nerding out over the numbers on a UOA every year. Others here will say that the absolute cheapest lube that meets the minimum spec is fine and to spend time shopping various rebates but I'd rather just spend more to support a great business that contributes to us here and rest assured spares no expense in their formulations. Neither way of going about it is wrong as long as you know what the pros/cons are.
 
I’d like to think 10k mile oci’s for HPL is like 3k for OTS oils. Another benefit would be keeping those pistons and rings clean in oil burners. 5k oci’s didn’t help me.

This. 3k mile OCIs didn't help my MIL's car either. It was changed religiously every 3k miles since she bought it new. After 11 years and 130k miles, it was burning a quart every 800-1000 miles. One run with HPL EC slowed the consumption in half. After the 2nd change with HPL PCMO 5W-30, it was down to just a quart every 5-6k miles.

The problem with oils that are volatile is the effects of that volatility happen the first time the oil gets hot. The first time the oil hits that 450°F cylinder wall, those light ends are going to burn and coke around the rings. You're not even a mile down the road after the oil change when this is happening so it doesn't matter how often you change it.

This engine had 200k miles at the time of this photo. It used HPL HDMO 5W-40 changed every 5k miles. Some would call that a waste, but show me a 200k mile engine this clean with 5k OCIs on Quaker State or Castrol. 3k OCIs even, it doesn't matter. Oils that run clean show benefits regardless of the OCI.

IMG_5182.webp
 
This. 3k mile OCIs didn't help my MIL's car either. It was changed religiously every 3k miles since she bought it new. After 11 years and 130k miles, it was burning a quart every 800-1000 miles. One run with HPL EC slowed the consumption in half. After the 2nd change with HPL PCMO 5W-30, it was down to just a quart every 5-6k miles.

The problem with oils that are volatile is the effects of that volatility happen the first time the oil gets hot. The first time the oil hits that 450°F cylinder wall, those light ends are going to burn and coke around the rings. You're not even a mile down the road after the oil change when this is happening so it doesn't matter how often you change it.

This engine had 200k miles at the time of this photo. It used HPL HDMO 5W-40 changed every 5k miles. Some would call that a waste, but show me a 200k mile engine this clean with 5k OCIs on Quaker State or Castrol. 3k OCIs even, it doesn't matter. Oils that run clean show benefits regardless of the OCI.

View attachment 247479
Thanks for sharing that.

Very interesting.
 
This. 3k mile OCIs didn't help my MIL's car either. It was changed religiously every 3k miles since she bought it new. After 11 years and 130k miles, it was burning a quart every 800-1000 miles. One run with HPL EC slowed the consumption in half. After the 2nd change with HPL PCMO 5W-30, it was down to just a quart every 5-6k miles.

The problem with oils that are volatile is the effects of that volatility happen the first time the oil gets hot. The first time the oil hits that 450°F cylinder wall, those light ends are going to burn and coke around the rings. You're not even a mile down the road after the oil change when this is happening so it doesn't matter how often you change it.

This engine had 200k miles at the time of this photo. It used HPL HDMO 5W-40 changed every 5k miles. Some would call that a waste, but show me a 200k mile engine this clean with 5k OCIs on Quaker State or Castrol. 3k OCIs even, it doesn't matter. Oils that run clean show benefits regardless of the OCI.

View attachment 247479
What a testimonial !

I have used HPL PP 0W8 in vehicles literally from the beginning of engines lives.

Factory fills were removed with a few hundred, or barely a thousand miles.

Preventative maintenance and consistency FTW.
 
One thing I have noticed over the years is engines that have used oils with group V base oil do in fact look cleaner when opened up to see internals. Whether that be HPL, Red Line, Amsoil SS or certain grades of Mobil 1. There is no yellow tint at all, it's pure clean metal. Royal Purple will even clean existing varnish. So there is some truth to these polar base oils keeping engines cleaner.
 
This. 3k mile OCIs didn't help my MIL's car either. It was changed religiously every 3k miles since she bought it new. After 11 years and 130k miles, it was burning a quart every 800-1000 miles. One run with HPL EC slowed the consumption in half. After the 2nd change with HPL PCMO 5W-30, it was down to just a quart every 5-6k miles.

The problem with oils that are volatile is the effects of that volatility happen the first time the oil gets hot. The first time the oil hits that 450°F cylinder wall, those light ends are going to burn and coke around the rings. You're not even a mile down the road after the oil change when this is happening so it doesn't matter how often you change it.

This engine had 200k miles at the time of this photo. It used HPL HDMO 5W-40 changed every 5k miles. Some would call that a waste, but show me a 200k mile engine this clean with 5k OCIs on Quaker State or Castrol. 3k OCIs even, it doesn't matter. Oils that run clean show benefits regardless of the OCI.

View attachment 247479
Looks amazing!!

Exactly right on the volatility.

In my case the engine is spotless except for the pistons using majority group 3 oils. Those low tension rings require the cleanest of pistons. I do believe some engines are more picky than others and in my case this could have been prevented with HPL or Amsoil SS.
 
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If you've used HPL since new or have used it long enough, what is there to clean (out) ? And why does HPL need to sell a standalone "engine cleaner" product if their regular oils clean so well ?
Their regular oil is pretty aggressive in its choices of cleaning compounds. This can be a “bad” thing on heavily sludged engines or those with lots of carbon in the rings. The Engine Cleaner is less aggressive but also softens existing accumulations so they can be safely removed.

Either way will eventually bring an engine back towards cleanliness, but the safety of the cleaning process is paramount to ensure no engine suffers an issue on its path to cleanliness!
 
Tell us you drank the Kool-Aid without telling us you drank the Kool-Aid
Tell us you discredited the Kool-Aid without ever tasting or examining the Kool-Aid.

There’s plenty of data on this site showing HPL’s oils doing things none of the majors have done (multiple 30k+ OCIs, my EcoBoost at 15k+, a ProStock Motorcycle making 2 passes without oil, and others…); what objective data do you have to disprove the initial statement about HPL? If we’re treating this as science class, it’s now up to you to prove your theory that it’s not the best available. Anybody can make a claim, but bring some data, otherwise you’re just a hater with no grounds to land your argument on. 👋
 
For those of us that have been around engines for a while will remember that Mobil 1 tri syn would produce similar results to this.
But you can’t buy TriSyn today anywhere and Mobil will laugh at you if you ask their service line to bring it back to market.

You can, however, buy the other oil blended by the OG cleaning guru Dr. Rudnick… at 15% off retail 😉
 
This is what happens when someone joins a cult. He probably has a pic of Dave propped up on an alter somewhere.
Mmkay. When somebody has nothing of value to add to the conversation, they attack the person who made the statement that their little minds can’t comprehend.

Dave Ward is a man of rare conviction in today’s business world. His word is his honor that he lives and dies (business-speak) by. He doesn’t have $2B in sales from people who don’t know engine oil from canola oil to cover up any missteps; his customers generally are reaching for the very best product available, and after trying them all and being left wanting, they end up at HPL’s doorstep.

That HPL has a “who’s who” of drag racing and other motorsports using their product without a single $ of sponsorship, and also has several HUGE fleet contracts based on performance and cost savings, gives a mountain of proof to those who trust their daily drivers to HPL that they are in good hands.

Meanwhile, you cast unfounded aspersions against not only a site sponsor but also one of the most highly regarded suppliers in the industry. Maybe you should take a long look in the mirror and ask yourself who’s the one posturing up with nothing to back it.
 
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