Impressive!
Why is using HPL for short drain intervals a waste?
- Thread starter camrydriver111
- Start date
If you've used HPL since new or have used it long enough, what is there to clean (out) ? And why does HPL need to sell a standalone "engine cleaner" product if their regular oils clean so well ?
Fair enough, but that would only be relevant if the engine needs the cleaning.
Says who ? What does "best" mean ?
I believe Dave said the regular oil may clean to quickly in a dirty engine. The EC is a prep for the switch over. It cleans slower.
As I said in another thread, there are only 3 ways to determine oil quality:
That's it. No other way around it. Telling me what you use, or who uses it ultimately doesn't mean anything. Engineers know this.
- Specifications met
- How much you meet or exceed testing parameters
- Faith of blender
That's it. No other way around it. Telling me what you use, or who uses it ultimately doesn't mean anything. Engineers know this.
Amsoil does a good job at giving you validation data.
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I totally agree. Fantastic product and company with an amazing testing and blending facility. I’m not a fan of the MLM structure. I buy online and shows up at my doorstep in a couple days.
Instead of licensing and manufactures’ certifications?
In an ideal world they'd have both, but they don't. And we know why. But they make up for that with the validation data.
I once questioned Torco and you know what they did? ....they removed TBN and Noack from their PDS a few hours after my call. Yeah no thanks.
I don't like getting bamboozled by marketers. Put up or shut up.
This is where a little bit of faith comes into play when you're going the boutique route. Amsoil has been around since 1972. They know what they're doing, as do others. But for the SP version of their SS line, they provided IVA, GM Turbo, IIIH, Noack, TEOST and Kurt Orbahn shear stability. So they get a pass.
Plenty of those available at Wally World for $19.99. Some are even syn blend for less!!!
I have seen with my own eyes taking an engine apart (top and bottom end) how Mobil 1 0w40 cleaned up a pretty miserable looking with heavy varnish deposits in about 12K, it was doing a remarkable job on not only the top end where everyone seems to want to look at but on the pistons, ring lands, timing chain are, all were clean.
Castrol RS10w60 kept my bike engine spotlessly clean and wear within new spec after 12 years and 248K Km, it was the only oil ever run in that engine aside for the first 1k break in oil. I would say that is a pretty solid performance.
I only tore it down to change the cam chain which meant splitting the cases, I did a quick refresh on it. The guy I sold it to still runs it on the same Castrol oil and it still runs great at 31 years old and almost 400K.
Today in my cars I run Mobil 1 0w40, ESP 5w30 and Castrol Euro 0w30. The Castrol 0w30 has some impressive spec for a much lower price than boutique oils $50 for 6qt case on the door.
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I just looked at the Torco SR1 oils. It has the info listed on the website.
Depending on how you define "protect" I'm not convinced that's the case if a "short OCI" is defined as no greater than 5k "every day driving" miles.
If you have to change oil at say 3,500 miles because of fuel dilution then unfortunately hpl isn't going to do anything that say much cheaper PP is going to do.
If you're getting fuel dilution then you're probably not spending much time above 6,000rpm, or getting the oil really hot, not leaving it in the engine long enough to be sheared to a thinner grade. You know, all the conditions where we know hpl is superior to peasant lube.
You didnt answer my question, can you try to answer it? I'll make it more plain..
"Even when you run short OCIs it will protect better than a non-boutique oil."
How exactly?
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And when does an engine need cleaning? What I see here most often is that folks get into "cleaning" their engine when they experience issues, usually, but not necessarily limited to, excessive oil consumption.
HPL, and similar oils, can help avoid that scenario by cleaning before things get out of hand. Think of it like cleaning your home or shop. You do a little every day, pick up this, wipe down that. You most likely don't wait until things get out of hand and require more extreme measures to clean and straighten.
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If we are assuming you are starting with a clean engine the HPL is never necessary for anything but long runs or extreme conditions. Running Castrol, Mobil, or any other off the shelf oil at short intervals will not result in needing engine cleaning.
Here’s my experience. I’ve run 5k mile intervals from day one with mostly Mobil 1 and Valvoline bought at Walmart. My engine internals are spotless. My pistons are not. Oil consumption started at 60k and has steadily gotten worse. I’m now at 120k and testing Valvoline R&P for the four intervals. It’s hard to blame the oil because of the low tension oil rings but I have to wonder if a boutique would have prevented this problem.
I changed my wife’s 24 Altima at 1k with the ppcmo 0w20 and then again at 5k. The Nissan 2.5 seems to be easy on oil so I plan on running this last change to around 20% of the OLM. Being a new engine, the oil is still spotless with 1500k on it, and probably should be. Now my 21 Altima with 40k that had 5k oil changes with idemitsu 0w20 gl5 is dirtier than usual at 3500k using the same hpl. I didn’t use the cleaner, didn’t really feel I needed to. I’ll probably dump it when it gets 5k on it. I did switch our 2018 over to schaeffers at 90k and it’s staying nice and clean with close to 3500k so far. The Rogue saw nothing but valvoline high mileage its entire life and was always changed around 4-5k. It’s also not GDI. I make a spin to to our Stlouis office a few times a year and can get Schaeffers for a good price. I may go with Schaeffers for the 24 since it’s licensed gl6 just in case any warranty issues come up.
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