Which oil to use...need some advice.

[JSmitty]

I am new to this site, yet have been changing oil for over 10 years. I normally use whatever oil is on sale, or the old standby: Castrol. I have two vehicles that I change regularly (every 3,000 miles): 2000 Nissan Xterra V6 w/ 97k mi and a 2005 Toyota 4Runner V6 w/ 33k mi. My questions are:

Should I always use the same brand of oil? I do always use the same weight (of course).

I am tempted by the PP BOGO price and know that PP is liked by many on this site, yet is it too late for the Nissan w/ high miles? Would you recommend PP the Toyota? I have to admit that I am scared to use syn oil because I did use M1 in the Nissan about 20k ago, and had to have the oil pan seal replaced shortly after. I am currently using blends in both vehicles now.

Thanks for the advice, this site is great!!

 

[Ramblin Fever]

FWIW - I have a 10yr old Isuzu Rodeo that I STRICTLY used nothing but Havoline 10w-30 dino in for it's first 7yrs/145k; I have since used a few different formulations i.e. GC, Valvoline, Motorcraft, Rotella.

I have since found my 2 favorites, Valvoline maxlife 10w-30 (dino or synthetic) and Rotella synthetic 5w-40; I will probably never use anything other then these 2 in this engine again.

I have no oil leaks/weaps. And, a long time Isuzu mechanic/specialist has recommended the Rotella synthetic diesel/gas engine oil as the best for keeping this particular engine clean/protected.

In my '04 Tacoma 3.4L V6, it came to us with Pennzoil 10w-30 dealer oil in it in the mid 20k mile range; we have since ran a round of German Castrol synthetic 0w-30 in it. The GC was becoming nearly impossible to find, so it is now running Castrol GTX 5w-30.

I will run 2-3 OCI's with this oil and determine if I like the results on a UOA, if not, I will try the Castrol Syntec synthetic.

But, chances are, after warranty's up, I'll switch this one to the Rotella synthetic 5w-40 as well, even though it *recommends* a 5w-30.

Some vehicles are prone to leaks with certain seals, as an example, the Isuzu's are famous for valve cover gasket leaks/weeps - just the nature of the manufactor set-up.

I don't think it rightly matters if you switch brands every time, many have without issue; I just like to get on something and stay with it.

 

[terafunker]

Seems like you can switch brands, types, and weights as often as you wish--if not, there would be a lot of forum members here shopping for new rides!

Rotella Syn's great stuff, especially if the recommended oil is 10w-40 or 20w-50.

 

[JSmitty]

Based on the PP reviews, I just bought enough (BOGO) for two oil changes for the Nissan (only 3.5 qts per change). I will do 3k oci and see what happens. Also got a M1 filter.

As for the Toyota, I think I will stick with a dino or blend. Both vehicles are 5w30, so it really doesn't make sense to buy two kinds of oil for both trucks. Makes a good excuse to go to the auto parts store though.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[JSmitty]

Wanted to give everyone an update. I put PP 5w30 in the nissan xterra v6 this weekend and there is no more start up "clatter"! Hopefully, this will continue as the oil wears.

 

[Ramblin Fever]

Quote:

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it really doesn't make sense to buy two kinds of oil for both trucks.

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I'm buying 3 different kinds of oil for 4 trucks, 3 of those trucks could run the same oil, but 2 are performing/sound best on Rotella synthetic, and the 3rd is still under warranty and specifies a 5w-30, so it gets Castrol GTX (for now).

If I wasn't using Rotella in 2 of the trucks, I'd still be using a different oil for those 2 versus what the newer Tacoma gets - they have a preference for heavier 30-40wts.

FWIW - Napa Gold filters are excellent filters for probably less money. I'm using them on everything.