Which of these 2 is best for the same money???

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Hi, I have a new 2007 Honda Accord 4cyl at 10,000 miles and it's ready to switch to synthetic. I've done a lot of research and I've decided on two oils and a program.

Keep in mind that I drive 40K-50K miles a year and I plan on keeping this car for at least 350K miles. I have decided on 2 plans, both of them are based on a quality v's cost issue. Also remember that I enjoy changing my own oil and each of these plans will cost about the same money.

Plan 1: Amsoil series 2000 0w-30. Use the Amsoil oil filter. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles.

Plan 2: Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-20 (non EP formula) Use the PureOne oil filter. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles.

I think the Amsoil 0w-30 is a superior oil overall...and better for longer OCI, but if I change the Mobil 1 every 3,000 that won't even give the oil a chance to get dirty.

At the same price, which do you think will be the best protection for my engine? I live in a cold climate in Chicago, ILL and I do not race or drive fast. I just need this engine to last as long as possible and that includes bottom and top end, etc...

Any opinions???
 
if you are going to change M1 at 3K then forget about it and buy a case of whatever name brand SM is on sale and change that at 3K or use Amsoil and run out to 7-8K.
bruce
 
I agree with both of you. M1 at 3k is a huge waste.

I'd go with ASM 0w-20 Amsoil. I have a 2005 Accord. I have 10,000 miles on the oil now. (1qt makeup oil). Sending a sample off probably next week.
 
i agree with bruce.. dont waste your time with M1 for one its not worth the hype nor the $$..either amsoil for 7k miles or UOA says its ok to do so. or do 3-5k mile on dino. they are easy on oil so i say dino, preferably gtx or penzoil
 
With 40-50K miles per year I would go for a high mileage plan maybe even 10K OCI if allowed by warranty. This is assuming you are not doing delivery.

Bear in mind body rust can be a limiting issue in yr climate. I think Accords are basically really high mileage cars so anything reasonable (and maybe something unreasonable) would get you there.
 
"Keep in mind that I drive 40K-50K miles a year and I plan on keeping this car for at least 350K miles."

Is that highway miles? That's roughly 4K monthly.

"Plan 1: Amsoil series 2000 0w-30. Use the Amsoil oil filter. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles."

The TSO/EaO filter combo should be good for 4 months/15K.
You may want to get an UOA at 10K to see how the oil is performing


Haven't tried the Amsoil 0w-20, but that is another option.
 
I'm in sales, so I'm on the road a lot. Sometimes highway, sometimes cold calling...lots of idling and starting. About 75% highway, though. I really like what I hear about the Amsoil, but the price is rough. Wallyworld has a 5 quart jug for $19 of the Mobil 1 5w-20. That's pretty cheap! I look at Mobil 1 as a really good conventional oil...even though it's synthetic. I like Amsoil the best, but at $10 a quart I would have to leave it in there for at least 7k to 10K miles to get my moneys worth out of it.

Hey Pablo...I know Honda specs a 5w-20 oil but the Amsoil 0w-30 seems like a fantastic oil. If price was no object, would you run the Amsoil 0w-30 in the Honda over the specified 5w-20?
 
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I like Amsoil the best, but at $10 a quart I would have to leave it in there for at least 7k to 10K miles to get my moneys worth out of it.

Hey Pablo...I know Honda specs a 5w-20 oil but the Amsoil 0w-30 seems like a fantastic oil. If price was no object, would you run the Amsoil 0w-30 in the Honda over the specified 5w-20?




Nope. I run XLM 5W-20 in my 3.5L V6 Ody van as do many others. There is ZERO reason to use a XW-30 in a new Honda. ASM 0W-20 is just a better built oil than the 0W-30, plus it's $5.90 0r $7.55/qt. The choice is just so clear to me.
 
7500 miles is cake if you're doing 50,000/yr (lots of hwy).

I would UOA @ 7500, and likely go 10,000 on M1EP or Amsoil. Either oil should suit you fine.

If the Honda filters are still made in Japan with the )-ring gasket and are high quality, I'd run those. Otherwise purolator pureone will be sufficient.
 
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I like Amsoil the best, but at $10 a quart I would have to leave it in there for at least 7k to 10K miles to get my moneys worth out of it.

Hey Pablo...I know Honda specs a 5w-20 oil but the Amsoil 0w-30 seems like a fantastic oil. If price was no object, would you run the Amsoil 0w-30 in the Honda over the specified 5w-20?




Nope. I run XLM 5W-20 in my 3.5L V6 Ody van as do many others. There is ZERO reason to use a XW-30 in a new Honda. ASM 0W-20 is just a better built oil than the 0W-30, plus it's $5.90 0r $7.55/qt. The choice is just so clear to me.




OK, I've done some more reading and I like the 100% Synthetic Amsoil 0w-20. So, you are saying that Amsoil 0w-20 is a superior oil to the Amsoil 0w-30? I just thought that the series 2000 0w-30 would give a little better protection since it is a little bit thicker? I know Honda is spec'd for a xW-20 but I thought that was mostly for CAFE and that I could fudge a little bit on the heavier side and get a little more wear protection...

If you say the 0w-20 is made better than the 0w-30, than I think I will go with it along with the Amsoil filter and a 7,500 mile OCI, maybe even do a UOA and shoot for 10K.
 
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OK, I've done some more reading and I like the 100% Synthetic Amsoil 0w-20. So, you are saying that Amsoil 0w-20 is a superior oil to the Amsoil 0w-30? I just thought that the series 2000 0w-30 would give a little better protection since it is a little bit thicker? I know Honda is spec'd for a xW-20 but I thought that was mostly for CAFE and that I could fudge a little bit on the heavier side and get a little more wear protection...

If you say the 0w-20 is made better than the 0w-30, than I think I will go with it along with the Amsoil filter and a 7,500 mile OCI, maybe even do a UOA and shoot for 10K.




That's what I'm saying. 0W-20 is a newer, better formulated oil. Period. Your engine does NOT need a 30 or 40 or 50 for better protection. Sure Ford probably did go to 20 for CAFE. Honda didn't have to, but soon found out - thicker is not better. 7.5K-10K miles will be a breeze! Please click on my link to order or contact me off line. Thanks.
 
I was running the 0W20 in my 2006 ford fusion and had about 5000 miles on the oil and was going to sample at 10K but I traded it in for a new corolla. The engine did seem to run smooth and when I would check the dipstick it was still right at full.
-Right now I am running pennzoil 5w30 dino in my corolla but I have 18qts of the 0W20 I would like to run in it maybe since I do have the oil. I also have about 12 qrts of synpower 5W30 i picked up at bogof i want to run too. From all the uoa's I have seen the corolla motors (1zz-fe) does well on dino at 5000 mile intervals and that is what the manual recommends, 5K or every 6 months. But I would have no worries running syn out to 7500-10K
 
ditch the M1 idea. if you want to use a brand name syn you can get at the store get one that is on SALE and run however you like. you are just buying the Mobil name bc if you look at ALL the uoa's there is nothing great about M1. the other syns available do just as good if not BETTER than M1.. save the $ find one sale.. you just missed a BOGO of synpower at Advance Auto but they will have it again. look into PP also that is one great oil thats worth the $$
 
Thanks to all who responded. I have made up my mind to overlook the M1. I was never a big fan of it to begin with. While I appreciate the sales that stores have for other synthetic oils, I'm kind of anal and a big believer about sticking with one brand and weight of oil for the life of the engine. I'm leaning towards the ASM 0W-20.
 
well there you go, cant go wrong there. do some uoa's you may be able to run that oil for 10k or more. never know till you get consistant uoa's done.
 
I would run a synthetic of your choice, Mobil M1 or Penn. Platinum, out to 5000 miles with a pureone, if you go with a 3000 mile change Id just stick with a conventional oil, you arent going to wear that oil out doing highway miles. Being a 2007, with a warranty, if you push those Amsoil changes out to 10,000 you are going to want UOAs which then add to the cost which defeats the whole idea of being cheaper. Its what I dont get most people run Amsoil and throw up costs per miles but dont add the $20 UOA that they get to prove they can run a extended change and for the $20 proof they could just change the oil. Not to mention that they never add that $20 into the costs they divvy up. At 5000 miles with a name brand Sopus synthetic you will be alot cheaper and within your warranty guidelines. I dont know if you read the post on here about the twisted oil filter but it sounds like they try to grab anything they can to blame the consumer.
 
If I was driving 45,000 miles a year I would want to change the oil quarterly. Thus the Amsoil 0W-20 sounds like a real winner. Reduce the OCI as the engine changes.

If you want to make it to 350,000 miles, then you really need to concentrate on ALL of the fluids and greases. Use a top quality ATF and other fluids and greases and use some of your oil-change gusto on every lube point on the car (coolants, too). A very small amount of lubricant/cleaner used in every tank of today's scratchy gas would also be an exceptionally good idea for every moving part from the gas cap to the EGR valve.
 
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