Which Engine oil for Honda k20c1 Type r?

Ok, so do you think a 0W30-5W30 would be the better alternative than if I had a 0W20 filled in?
 
mobil one esp x3 0w40 will be good,too? The nrw esp 5W30 will be api sp,too. Mobil one is s very good idea i think. Thanks.
 
OP, you're overthinking it.
Any oil with the required specification/licensing is G2G.
Membership in BITOG should teach one that maybe one oil can be perceived as "better" than another, but anything that satisfies the OEM requirement is fine.
It might satisfy the OEM requirements but far too often that wouldn't be hard to beat. @High Performance Lubricants even states the lacking ability of commodity oils to live up to expectations and often leaves the insides with more crud and varnish than anyone would really want in a engine. I'm going to go out on a limb and say I doubt most people are going to leave a car with that type of potential stock. Too many parts that can add lots of horsepower. @CleanSump , Im not saying any of this to argue just simply putting an opinion out there. I think a true synthetic with a Grp 4 or 5 is gonna be better for this car. There are many great boutique oils out there that deserve to be the fill of the crankcase to give it only something good enough.
 
Thank you for your recommendations, I will follow midsaps c3.
Try this if you can find it on sale. Sounds funny to state that a car "likes" it but the engine in my B13 Sentra grocery getter is silent with this stuff coursing through it's veins.
20230212_134815.jpg
20230212_134825.jpg
 
I was mainly concerned only with whether a fullsaps protects better or keeps the engine cleaner than a midsaps. I had read a lot about it, not only can the valve deposits increase, but also internal motor deposits can form on hot components. You should choose sulphated as low as possible. Thank you
 
I travelled a longer distance today. I installed a better intercooler from the beginning. I have a maximum of 105C oil temperatures, I don't drive a racetrack. At low temperatures, thin oils should also work very well, right? The temperature of the oil is also important for the choice of viscosity, isn't it?
 
I have a k20c4 (only difference is the turbo and intercooler really) I use valvoline 5w30 and have had zero issues. MPG is about the same. I am on ktuner stage 2 with early spool enabled too, so yeah. I would look for 0w30 if you live in cooler climate, but here in the south east I don't see a reason to not use 5w30.

Just because you don't beat on it, doesn't mean anything. I have done several oil analysis tests and have oil dilution after 2k miles, so....yeah...0w20 becomes 0w10 real quick.

The reason I use valvoline is because its tests really well on oil analysis, similar to mobil1, and its like 25$ for 5qts.
 
I also have a Type R, but a 2019 (FK8). Currently running QSFS 0W-20 and an A02 filter and one FilterMag SS250. Just fell out of the powertrain warranty. Thinking about tracking the car a couple times a year, adding power mods, and thus stepping up in viscosity. Been reading about QSFS, M1 ESP, and M1 EP 5W-30 and I think I'll go for the ESP. Should cost me about $50 in oil per change (5.7qts), every 6 months/6k miles (if I even drive it that much). Looked at Valvoline European but it only has Porsche A approval whereas ESP has C. I'm in the southeast US.
 
I also have a Type R, but a 2019 (FK8). Currently running QSFS 0W-20 and an A02 filter and one FilterMag SS250. Just fell out of the powertrain warranty. Thinking about tracking the car a couple times a year, adding power mods, and thus stepping up in viscosity. Been reading about QSFS, M1 ESP, and M1 EP 5W-30 and I think I'll go for the ESP. Should cost me about $50 in oil per change (5.7qts), every 6 months/6k miles (if I even drive it that much). Looked at Valvoline European but it only has Porsche A approval whereas ESP has C. I'm in the southeast US.
If you are going to the track and its a turbo...maybe try Royal Purple HPS or HPL oils for the track.
I am only an hour away from ATL, took my accord to the track back in the day but its an NA motor and all it needed was a radiator.
 
If you are going to the track and its a turbo...maybe try Royal Purple HPS or HPL oils for the track.
I am only an hour away from ATL, took my accord to the track back in the day but its an NA motor and all it needed was a radiator.
Haven't looked into HPS but I was looking at HPL. Which HPL do you think would be a good choice? I was looming at this non-VI 5W-30, not sure what to think of it. Like if it's so great, why is it just now a thing? If I did HPL, I'd probably do a 12 month/12k mile OCI, it's the only way I could justify the cost. And I guess a Fram Ultra.

I'm not looking to break any records or anything, just a couple lapping days a year. And yeah it's factory turbocharged.
 
What do you say about the mobile 1 esp x3 0W40? It is often recommended here in the forum as very "useful". Is it more suitable for turbo engines due to midsaps than, for example, Mobil fs 0W40 or Rowe synthesis rs 5W40? I had read in another oil recommendation here that midsaps is only recommended because of the particulate filters in gasoline vehicles, is that true?

So far, I have almost always driven Rowe engine oil in all my cars, is there "better"? Ravenol or another brand that I can buy in Europe?
 
On the topic of turbocharged Honda engines, my son was asking what oil viscosity to use in his 2.0L Turbo Accord. Of course Honda says 0W-20 and I can't find anything else spec'd - my go-to is usually Castrol Australia to see what they recommend as alternates. Couldn't find the 2.0L Turbo in any cars there but the 1.5L Turbos all stuck to 0W-20 as well from Castrol.

Does Honda's manual refer to other viscosities for the Type R?

For the summer, I suggested 5W-30 or 0W-30 (if he can find it locally and at a reasonable price - I haven't seen it around much).
 
The manual says 0W30 or 5W30 in ACEA A5/B5. 0W20 may only be driven by Honda Engine type 2.0 0W20. This applies to Europe. If ACEA A5 is allowed to be driven fullsaps, then ACEA A3 should also be driven, at least theoretically.
 
The manual says 0W30 or 5W30 in ACEA A5/B5. 0W20 may only be driven by Honda Engine type 2.0 0W20. This applies to Europe. If ACEA A5 is allowed to be driven fullsaps, then ACEA A3 should also be driven, at least theoretically.
You keep referring to ACEA and temperatures in Celsius so you must be in Europe (??). I've never seen Honda refer to ACEA for engine oils over here.
 
In Europe, the ACEA is crucial for Honda. This specification is superior to the API. No speed limit and longer oil intervals require this. In America, an API is specified in 0W20.
I am from Germany, yes.
 
Back
Top