Where to now, Amsoil?

The first link isn't working. I'd like to stick with API SP-RC for warranty purposes.

5w30 SS is what I was referring to. Thanks
I went through the API rodeo with Hyundai. I can't speak for Subaru, but I got confirmation from two Shop Managers at two different dealerships that Amsoil SS will never cause a problem from a warranty perspective. Both of those guys said Amsoil is amazing and sometimes they use it at the shop, although I'm not sure if it's SS or OE or what.

Point being, I got comfort that SS won't be an issue given it exceeds API specifications. It's more about what they see in the engine (e.g., sludge). OCI is by far more important as to what they look for.
 
I went through the API rodeo with Hyundai. I can't speak for Subaru, but I got confirmation from two Shop Managers at two different dealerships that Amsoil SS will never cause a problem from a warranty perspective. Both of those guys said Amsoil is amazing and sometimes they use it at the shop, although I'm not sure if it's SS or OE or what.

Point being, I got comfort that SS won't be an issue given it exceeds API specifications. It's more about what they see in the engine (e.g., sludge). OCI is by far more important as to what they look for.
Yea ill probably do that next. I'm going to do a uoa on this valvoline Restore and protect and go over to amsoil ss 5w30
 
Fixed it, sorry I tried to have all the 5W-30's in a single link, didn't work

Anyway choose the OE, XL or Semi-syn if you want API listed.

In fact, if you want to run the semi-syn for 3-4K and do a UOA, I can hook you up, no charge. But there are some strings like doing two UOAs and posting them here, committing to not running off! hahaha
im down
 
Speaking of, I've been considering switching my 22 wrx that is stock power (for a bit) to amsoil 5w30 or 0w30. I believe they're API SP? Also, would it be a waste of money if I plan 3-4k miles OCI?

I'm looking for a relatively thick 30 oil (the Valvoline R&P I use is 3.24 HTHS/ 10.4 kv100) . How does the amsoil xw30 compare? I looked online but didn't find info
Honestly, save the cash, unless you don’t care. I would use M1 0w40 or Pennzoil 5w40 in that car with a quality filter. I’d keep OCIs to 4,000 miles and 5,000 miles depending on driving style etc.

Both those oils have the Porsche A40 approval and the MB 229.5 approval. Just make sure they’re the SP formulas.

But if you want to splurge, HPL and Redline.

Oil is cheap, you can’t put a price on piece of mind.
 
Grab the M1 0W30 ESP for 28 bucks 5qt jug at WM and be done with it meets some of the toughest approvals on the planet.
That’s what I’m running currently in my Elantra N for its first OCI.

I’d prefer the 5W-30 version (thicker base oil, less VII, less prone to shear potentially). But decided that the price difference wasn’t worth it to me at 5000 mile OCIs.
 
That’s what I’m running currently in my Elantra N for its first OCI.

I’d prefer the 5W-30 version (thicker base oil, less VII, less prone to shear potentially). But decided that the price difference wasn’t worth it to me at 5000 mile OCI
Where are you finding 5w30 version? Are both API SP?
 
...In addition, there is a question of blender integrity. It is not an uncommon practice to sell off-specification base stocks at a discount when re-processing or blend-off is not feasible or cost effective. And I have heard of some companies substituting Group II or II+ for Group III in synthetic formulations.

For perspective sake we should also consider the relative value of base oil quality in the performance for finished motor oils. The base oil certainly contributes to flow properties and oxidative stability, but when it comes to the critically important properties of wear, sludge, and deposit prevention, the additives play a larger role. Just knowing the base stocks used without knowing their performance quality or percentage is not of much help in predicting the performance of the finished oil. Hence the importance of carefully controlled engine and fleet tests.
When I was still blending, my PAO suppliers were exclusively Mobil and Chevron, although many other (mostly foreign) entities were always contacting me for a 'deal.' Both companies were very easy to deal with. One never knew where these outside base oil suppliers were getting their oils and thus the quality and purity were in question.

However, I had to forecast to both Mobil and Chevron the needed base oil types, volume and viscosities up to 6 months in advance because at that time base oil demands for synthetics were crazy. I always sampled both company's base oils for spec or that barrel went back.
 
That’s what I’m running currently in my Elantra N for its first OCI.

I’d prefer the 5W-30 version (thicker base oil, less VII, less prone to shear potentially). But decided that the price difference wasn’t worth it to me at 5000 mile OCIs.
Great oil and readily available.
 
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All my UOA's are posted on BITOG and clearly shows that modern oils in a well engineered MPI engine(GDI is a whole other realm) can go 15, 17.5, 20K miles between changes. Was thinking about a 25K run but am unsure what oil I want to put to the test.
 
All my UOA's are posted on BITOG and clearly shows that modern oils in a well engineered MPI engine(GDI is a whole other realm) can go 15, 17.5, 20K miles between changes. Was thinking about a 25K run but am unsure what oil I want to put to the test.
Yea I've got a turbo charged boxer with gdi 🤣 not doing 5k+ oci
 
Which Amsoil 5W-30? There are multiple:
https://www.amsoil.com/c/motor-oil/2/?zo=515729
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signature-series-5w-30-100-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?zo=515729

Both of Amsoil 0W-30's are not API listed, but do exceed all the test requirements.
Euro 0W-30 is 3.5 HTHS, 12.3cSt, SS 0W-30 3.09 HTHS, 10.4 cSt.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-0w-30-ms-100-synthetic-european-motor-oil-eot/?zo=515729

You could use any of the above with no problem - also later for a WRX a 0W or 5W - 40 would be something to look at.
Pablo, I have to point out that Amsoil's Euro 0w-30 DOES meet API SP (along with ACEA C3), so with the 3.5 HTHS & 12.3cSt @ 100C, & the lowered calcium promoting less competition with HTTP, it's my new go to oil.
 
The difference is still gonna be, in general, that Amsoil uses higher quality base oils, more robust add packs, and has a higher TBN than “shelf” oils.

There’s a huge difference between 25k miles OR one year. Any oil can make it one year if you’re driving 50 miles per week with low idle times. It takes a darn good formula and a good engine design to make it 25k in 12 months, and to do it without keeping tabs on what’s going on in the engine. Even some of the very finest oils show thickening out of grade at these extended mileages, which is not as big a concern as thinning out of grade due to fuel dilution.

Long story short, Amsoil still says to follow mfr recommendations; blindly going 25k without periodic analysis to ensure the oil is still able to protect the engine is not only dumb, it won’t be covered by any oil blender’s warranty.
I believe Amsoil SS is a great oil, and I’ve used it in my vehicles for 30 years. The mileage I change oil at depends on the vehicle. My ‘19 Titan would not burn oil for 7,500 miles, then burn a qt of 0W20 SS over the next 1,500 miles. Then, I’d change it. My ‘22 Sierra 5.3L, I’ve put 104K miles on it. Doesn’t burn oil till it gets 13K on it, then burns a qt of 0W20 over the next 1K miles, then I change it. Seems to work for me.
 
Auto Zone has it for $37.99 in my area.

Yes, both the 0W and 5W versions meet API-SP.
Sort of. The 0W-30 does not have an API license since it does not meet the bench test requirements for API SP as the phosphorus is slightly too high. Many people would consider that a feature and not a bug, especially considering it is $10 cheaper at Walmart. Unless your vehicle is consuming massive amounts of oil the phosphorus difference is meaningless.
 
Sort of. The 0W-30 does not have an API license since it does not meet the bench test requirements for API SP as the phosphorus is slightly too high. Many people would consider that a feature and not a bug, especially considering it is $10 cheaper at Walmart. Unless your vehicle is consuming massive amounts of oil the phosphorus difference is meaningless.
Mine is about 0.25 of a qt per 3ishk. What's considered massive amount? Like a qt per 1k?
 
I believe Amsoil SS is a great oil, and I’ve used it in my vehicles for 30 years. The mileage I change oil at depends on the vehicle. My ‘19 Titan would not burn oil for 7,500 miles, then burn a qt of 0W20 SS over the next 1,500 miles. Then, I’d change it. My ‘22 Sierra 5.3L, I’ve put 104K miles on it. Doesn’t burn oil till it gets 13K on it, then burns a qt of 0W20 over the next 1K miles, then I change it. Seems to work for me.
The correct way is to change the oil - just prior to the oil burning.
 
Sort of. The 0W-30 does not have an API license since it does not meet the bench test requirements for API SP as the phosphorus is slightly too high. Many people would consider that a feature and not a bug, especially considering it is $10 cheaper at Walmart. Unless your vehicle is consuming massive amounts of oil the phosphorus difference is meaningless.
The Euro 0w-30 meets API SP & has HTHS of 3.5. So lower calcium = less competition with the lowered ZDDP level for better AW properties.
 
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