When and how have you personally deviated from the car owners manual

[RitcheyRch]

I run 5W30 in my 2012 Tundra that the owners manual says to use 0W20 for better fuel economy.

 

[doublebase]

I've run heavier weight oil than spec'd. I've done transmission services when supposedly it's a "lifetime fluid". I've changed spark plugs sooner than suggested, and also later. I've used different weight differential fluid than spec'd - because I didn't want to be bothered finding or buying 75W85 and instead ran 75W90 (oh the horror). I've run higher air pressures too. I'm pretty outrageously daring, and often considered the life of my bingo parties.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

I have 2006 Holden (Opel) Astra and the owners manual says to use 10W30 or 15W40 in ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4. That's it. No other viscosity is listed, and no other standards like API are listed.

First oil I ran was Valvoline DuraBlend 10W40 A3/B4 semi-synthetic, close enough. Followed by other name brand A3/B4 10W40s as they are cheap and plentiful here.

I also ran some full synthetic A3/B4 oils such as Castrol Magnatec 5W30, Shell Helix Ultra 5W40, and Valvoline SynPower 0W40. Still no great risk, as they still carried the correct Euro spec, even if a slightly different viscosity grade, mostly the winter rating - which is nothing in my hot climate.

Probably my biggest deviation was Mobil 1 5W30, which was a ILSAC GF-5 and Dexos1 oil, so completely off grade and off spec. But hey, years down the road, and I'm still driving the car.

beside viscosity choices that Toyota allows anyway, Ihave bypassed lockouts such as the requirement to be in4 low to run an electronic locker. so that I could run the locker anytime and Used the hell out of that mod to drive down the beach without having to use 4wd unless I stopped.
I have cut up and modifiEd newer under warranty vehicles, and sold them when I was done abusing them for more than I paid for everything.. I have towed trailers and left the transmission in regular Drive. I have used tires and wheels and suspension components not specified. I Probably used the wrong grease in Different parts of the driveshafts a time or two.

 

[hank2]

I've run heavier weight oil than spec'd. I've done transmission services when supposedly it's a "lifetime fluid". I've changed spark plugs sooner than suggested, and also later. I've used different weight differential fluid than spec'd - because I didn't want to be bothered finding or buying 75W85 and instead ran 75W90 (oh the horror). I've run higher air pressures too. I'm pretty outrageously daring, and often considered the life of my bingo parties.

That is knocking on the door of "breaking bad".

I too have been an outlaw all of my days by not shifting manual trans models into whatever top gear is by 31 mph. I also do not believe in the existence of lifetime coolant and lifetime ATF. I don't care how many credits that earns you in the home nation.

 

[doublebase]

That is knocking on the door of "breaking bad".

I too have been an outlaw all of my days by not shifting manual trans models into whatever top gear is by 31 mph. I also do not believe in the existence of lifetime coolant and lifetime ATF. I don't care how many credits that earns you in the home nation.

We’re modern day Walter White’s.

 

[foresthawk]

Using 5W-20 in what calls for 5W-30. Its an '04 Chrysler Town & Country minivan.

 

[OVERKILL]

I'm kinda deviating from mine by using a Euro 0w-40 instead of the SRT 0w-40.

 

[BigCahuna]

I often thrown caution to the wind, by not using my seat belt when my vehicle is in motion. I'm a rebel.,,,

 

[Shel_B]

I've turned off the seat belt chime. Tire pressures are quite a bit different than the factory recommended. The oil used is 5W-30 vs factory-recommended 0W-20. Fluid changes are more frequent than normal.

 

[ZedzAmg]

Oh boy
5w30 in my Ford Focus RS, manual called for 5w50.
5w40 in my Sti, manual was 5w30
5w30 in my Gti that was specced 0w20

 

[Deleted member 89374]

I'm kinda deviating from mine by using a Euro 0w-40 instead of the SRT 0w-40.

The SRT 0W-40 is meant to be a fuel-efficient (250ppm Moly and 600ppm ZDDP) mid-SAPS lube. It wants to be an ACEA C3 oil, but it's not quite there yet. It's not quite as good, or even close, to a Euro lube with the appropriate approvals and certifications.

 

[930.engineering]

.
I do what most here do - cutting (OLM) intervals in half. 7500 mls maximum.
I do change transmission oil even though it's supposed to be a lifetime fluid.
However I do stick with factory approvals with only minor deviations. I also
use either OE or the OEM filters exclusively on all cars. Purflux on Mini, Mann
on GTI, Purolator on 930 just what they left the factory with because it works.
I change spark plugs and air filters sooner than suggested. Boring I know.
However I also run lower (not higher) tire pressures than suggested and my
own suspension settings and tire choice. Some suggestions in manuals are ...
just that ..... suggestions!
.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

@930.engineering I believe that one of the big problems is crappy gasoline (speculation on my part, yet we have no control over it and we don't know what's in it). It seems like full-SAPS oils can deal with it better. Maybe I'm wrong. I go 5~6K miles on every vehicle we have, and I feel secure to go even more in an emergency (away from home, can't change the oil on time, etc.) Fuel dilution is another problem that degrades oil. 7500 miles sounds exceedingly decent considering the high-quality lubricants you're using.

 

[930.engineering]

I agree on that fuel is still an issue in the US. That's where I consider Europe
superior, Western Europe at least. To name it - it's sulphur mainly. It's gone
better though in the US but there are still regional deviations that you don't
see in Central/Western Europe. Someone's to change that finally.

 

[GMBoy]

2014 Jeep GJ 3.6 and 2016 RAM Limited Hemi 5.7 both call for 5w/20 but I run 5w/30....over 100k on each just fine. I deviated from the 5w/20 spec recommended for 2 reasons:

1. These motors were originally spec'd for 5w/30...changed to 5w/20 I feel just for fuel economy gains as there were no motor changes that would need 5w/20.
2. I feel 5w/30 is a better fit for these motors - the Ram tows a lot for example.

Note - I support 5w/20 where motors were designed from the get go for it.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

2014 Jeep GJ 3.6 and 2016 RAM Limited Hemi 5.7 both call for 5w/20 but I run 5w/30....over 100k on each just fine. I deviated from the 5w/20 spec recommended for 2 reasons:

1. These motors were originally spec'd for 5w/30...changed to 5w/20 I feel just for fuel economy gains as there were no motor changes that would need 5w/20.
2. I feel 5w/30 is a better fit for these motors - the Ram tows a lot for example.

Note - I support 5w/20 where motors were designed from the get go for it.

The funny thing is that in some model years, they published in the owner's manuals that, for 3.6L and 5.7L HEMI engines, in the absence of 5W-20 that meets MS-6935, the owner may use 5W-30 that meets FIAT 9.55535-S1 or FIAT 9.55535-S3. Now, FIAT 9.55535-S1 is your average 5W-30 ACEA C2 oil. Ironically Castrol EDGE and Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30 meet this specification, but Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum 5W-30 don't. For the sake of the discussion, let's say that any ILSAC 5W-30 will do for a lowly gas engine.

Things get interesting with FIAT 9.55535-S3, which would be an ACEA C3 motor oil. These are mid-SAPS oils with an HTHS of 3.5 or higher. They are emission friendly (SCR, DPF, EGR), primarily used in diesel engines. I believe they chose ACEA C3 to be politically correct for catalytic converters. However, you can run an ACEA A3/B4 oil without ill effects in an MPI gas engine. I prefer ACEA A3/B4 (the precursor to ACEA C3) due to higher starting TBN and because it stands up better to bad gasoline, which is still hit or miss in many parts of the country. German car manufacturers recommended ACEA A3/B4 lubes for their highest performing engines in the US and Canada (MB229.5, for example).

The bottom line is that Chrysler left these little nuggets in their owner manuals over the years, but very few people picked up on them. Until the last few years, almost any manufacturer told owners, more or less covertly to avoid the wrath of the EPA, that a more viscous oil with a higher HTHS should be used if the engine is going to be put to work or abused (towing, track days, etc.).

I plan to write a more detailed post in the future where I go over the VVT, heat issues, lubes, and some other stuff regarding the 5.7 HEMI, hoping that the information will help others.

Bellow is what the Canadian Owner's Manual for the RAM 1500 says (2014 model year):

Engine Oil Viscosity – 3.6L/5.7L Engines (1500
Models Only)
MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil or equivalent Pennzoil®
or Shell Helix® is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature
starting and vehicle fuel economy.
The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended
engine oil viscosity for your vehicle. For information on
engine oil filler cap location, refer to “Engine Compartment” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle” for further information.
NOTE:SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Fiat
9.55535-S1 or Fiat 9.55535-S3 may be used when SAE
5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Running longer OCI** with UOA support on the old 2017 Crosstrek - to good effect.
Also not changing the sparkplugs as recommended at 60K - They are "lifetime" unobtanium ruthenium- why change before 120K ?

** 9-10K mile vs 6K mile. Car is commuter driven on a high speed interstate 5 days a week 70 mile round trip.

 

[1uz_4me]

That is knocking on the door of "breaking bad".

I too have been an outlaw all of my days by not shifting manual trans models into whatever top gear is by 31 mph. I also do not believe in the existence of lifetime coolant and lifetime ATF. I don't care how many credits that earns you in the home nation.

(smilies go with the pic, not laughing at your post)

I've gone 112k mi on a timing belt on a 1uz

 

[OVERKILL]

The SRT 0W-40 is meant to be a fuel-efficient (250ppm Moly and 600ppm ZDDP) mid-SAPS lube. It wants to be an ACEA C3 oil, but it's not quite there yet. It's not quite as good, or even close, to a Euro lube with the appropriate approvals and certifications.

You are being kind, I tend to think of it as a tarted up 5w-30 in drag, masquerading as a 0w-40

 

[tdi jerry]

I have been running 5W30 oil in a 2016 and a 2018 Ford Fusion that Ford calls for 5W20 with 5000 mile oil changes. Today i had the oil changed in the 2018 to AMSOIL SS 0W30 and will change the 2016 to AMSOIL SS 0W30 at the next oil change.