What oil would you recommend in a 17 focus S

You have a 5 year old economy car so I’d keep it economical. Cheapest oil you can find that meets spec and go until it tell you to change it. No reason to over think it or dump a bunch of money into it.
I don't recall it having an oil life monitor. If it does I've never seen it come on. And oil is cheap...even expensive oil is cheap. I don't mind paying for a decent product to keep a decent car around awhile even if it is an "economy car".
 
Where in the USA? What is your coldest morning?

0W-30: M1 ESP or maybe Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX

5W-30: M1 ESP

I'd clearly prefer the latter if you don't require 0W.

Vast amount of discussions on that. Search it, find it!
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Missouri we can get as low as -10 a few days a year.
 
Where in the USA? What is your coldest morning?

0W-30: M1 ESP or maybe Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX

5W-30: M1 ESP

I'd clearly prefer the latter if you don't require 0W.

Vast amount of discussions on that. Search it, find it!
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I guess a 30wt won't negatively impact anything even though it calls for a 5w20?
 
Sprited driving mostly highway we get all 4 seasons so currently cold but not always. No towing it's a focus I'd feel silly even trying to tow something. It s a 17 Ford focus S. Which is a 2.0 gdi and a 5 speed manual.
If it helps, I run Mobil 1 5w30 high mileage extended performance with a motorcraft fl400s filter in my Focus ST. 2.0L with a 6 spd manual.
I’m guessing you have the same block minus the turbo.
 
I guess a 30wt won't negatively impact anything even though it calls for a 5w20?
Just for comparison sake, the Focus ST requires 5w30. If it's good for a turbocharged 2.0, imagine how it can protect the non-turbo version.

You have an oil life monitor, it is reset with a certain number of brake and gas pedal presses done in a specific sequence. It's in your owner's manual. I don't know when they typically alert you, because I never let mine get past 5000 mi.
 
What brand of oil is the bitog favorite flavor nowadays? I'd like this focus to run for a long long time. The engine being a gdi what would you recommend and for what interval?
If you have a true GDI (no port injectors) I’d personally go for the oil that not only meets your engine’s required specs, but also the added requirement that it have the lowest percentage of VIIs and low Noack. This means something with a lower VI, which may seem counterintuitive, but to me since you will be running shorter OCIs than a PFI engine, it’s not as big a deal.

What oil is spec’d? 5w20?
 
I don't recall it having an oil life monitor. If it does I've never seen it come on. And oil is cheap...even expensive oil is cheap. I don't mind paying for a decent product to keep a decent car around awhile even if it is an "economy car".

It has one, it will come on when the oil gets down to maybe 10-20%. I ran 0/5W-20 and 5W-30 in it with the latter in the summer. The engine is pretty easy on oil especially full syn. You can use any of the above, but I preferred M1 AN/EP 0W-20 in the winter. It doesn't matter that much. The main concerns are replacing the manual gearbox oil and maybe run some manifold intake cleaner through to remove deposits on the valves from the GDI:


 
It has one, it will come on when the oil gets down to maybe 10-20%. I ran 0/5W-20 and 5W-30 in it with the latter in the summer. The engine is pretty easy on oil especially full syn. You can use any of the above, but I preferred M1 AN/EP 0W-20 in the winter. It doesn't matter that much. The main concerns are replacing the manual gearbox oil and maybe run some manifold intake cleaner through to remove deposits on the valves from the GDI:


The car only has 37,000 miles on it so I haven't changed the gear box oil yet. I'll probably just run a 0w30 all year around. I've driven it about 5k since buying it and I know the oil was changed with a syn blend before I bought it. So I figured it was time.
 
I don't recall it having an oil life monitor. If it does I've never seen it come on. And oil is cheap...even expensive oil is cheap. I don't mind paying for a decent product to keep a decent car around awhile even if it is an "economy car".
Go for it. No guarantee spending more would yield more though. Good thing there is solid stuff for cheap these days
 
I've had a Focus ST since 2013. I now have 180000 km on it. The Ecoboost 2.0T did not ever have fuel dilution issues based on oil testing (I did three of them). From my experience, the biggest factors affecting performance is build up of intake valve deposits, and brake seize. By the time I got wind of this issue, I was already 80,000 km in (and did not want to muck around with valve cleaners in case I knock a chunk off and hit the turbine blades. I finally got a walnut blast done at 110000km. From the boroscope, there was significant build up on 1 of 4 valves. 3 of the 4 valves, while there was some deposits, it wasn't that bad. Since the blast, I've run CRC intake valve cleaner through the vacuum line just prior to every oil change (13,000 km OCI). The car seems to idle rough just before the OCI. But after the intake valve cleaner, seems to idle smoothly again. Like I mentioned, brake seize was also an issue on occasion. The manual does not mention brake servicing. But I'd do it at least after each winter.
 
My 2013 Focus with the same engine is at 10 years/125K and most of that was on the dealer Motorcraft syn blend 5W20. Gets Supertech 5W20 now. Any syn 5W20 is going to be just fine. GDI is not an issue here.
 
I don't recall it having an oil life monitor. If it does I've never seen it come on. And oil is cheap...even expensive oil is cheap. I don't mind paying for a decent product to keep a decent car around awhile even if it is an "economy car".
I have a 2014 Focus SE (GDI but non-turbo) with a 5 speed MT and I've run a variety of synthetics and even syn-blends a couple of times. I keep the OCI shorter than my non GDI Escape. Both have Duratec engines (based on the Mazda MZR) but the Escape 2.5 has a 5.7 qt. sump and the Focus 2.0 has a 4.5 qt. sump.
Both of these engines call for 5w20 and should run a long time using it.
In Missouri I'd probably use 0w20 in winter and 5w20 or 5w30 synthetic in summer and keep the OCI at 6K max.

PS: The Focus does have an oil change monitor. While it doesn't tell you the percentage of life left it does come on telling you an oil change is due.* The procedure for resetting it is in the OM....basically you step on the brake and gas pedal to the floor with the key in ACC mode until it says it's 'reset'.

*I've never gone long enough on an OCI for the 'Change oil soon' message to appear but I think it would come on at about 10K miles....which is too long on a GDI engine IMO.
 
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I have a 2014 Focus SE (GDI but non-turbo) with a 5 speed MT and I've run a variety of synthetics and even syn-blends a couple of times. I keep the OCI shorter than my non GDI Escape. Both have Duratec engines (based on the Mazda MZR) but the Escape 2.5 has a 5.7 qt. sump and the Focus 2.0 has a 4.5 qt. sump.
Both of these engines call for 5w20 and should run a long time using it.
In Missouri I'd probably use 0w20 in winter and 5w20 or 5w30 synthetic in summer and keep the OCI at 6K max.

PS: The Focus does have an oil change monitor. While it doesn't tell you the percentage of life left it does come on telling you an oil change is due.* The procedure for resetting it is in the OM....basically you step on the brake and gas pedal to the floor with the key in ACC mode until it says it's 'reset'.

*I've never gone long enough on an OCI for the 'Change oil soon' message to appear but I think it would come on at about 10K miles....which is too long on a GDI engine IMO.
125K/10 years next mos. on my new Focus SE 5-spd. 100% 5W20....I think about running 5W30 but don't think it makes any difference but it certainly won't hurt anything. Running 0W vs. 5W in Missouri isn't necessary - they are effectively "the same" at those temps w/r to cold start.
 
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125K/10 years next mos. on my new Focus SE 5-spd. 100% 5W20....I think about running 5W30 but don't think it makes any difference but it certainly won't hurt anything. Running 0W vs. 5W in Missouri isn't necessary - they are effectively "the same" at those temps w/r to cold start.
I agree that 0w20 and 5w20 are interchangeable in Missouri. I'd use the 0w20 in winter only because I have a lot of it from sales etc...
You could go at least another 125K out of your Duratec if the rest of the car holds up....I've seen several with over 300K and one with 412K on CL over the years.
 
I agree that 0w20 and 5w20 are interchangeable in Missouri. I'd use the 0w20 in winter only because I have a lot of it from sales etc...
You could go at least another 125K out of your Duratec if the rest of the car holds up....I've seen several with over 300K and one with 412K on CL over the years.
It's my son's now who is in college - it's held up well and I've taken great care of it. It has been the lowest ownership cost vehicle I've ever had. It's an SE with all the options so sunroof, winter pack, appearance package, leather, etc. I have a tune on it to take advantage of 93 octane for a bit more go and some suspension mods....he loves it but of course wishes it was an ST!

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On GDI engines it matters heavily, cars that are only driven on short trips, especially in cold climates, should generally have the oil changed at very short intervals (~3000-4000mi) to counter the fuel dilution and soot build up that occurs.
I agree short oil change intervals on GDI engines are a good idea, but at the same time when your changing the oil every 4,000 miles or so any modern oil meeting the latest specs will be perfectly fine regardless of brand.
 
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