What Oil Should I Use for GMC Yukon 2019 in a VERY HOT Summer

CKN

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Oct 14, 2014
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Here we go again. I own a 2018 Silverado w//the 5.3. It currently has 44,000 miles on it. I tow a 5,000 pound travel trailer up 8,000 foot mountain passes at 90 degrees in the summer time.. The manual calls for 0/20w and that's what it gets
 
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LDM

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Nov 8, 2018
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Illinois
I've been running Shell Gas/Truck 5w30 in my 2018 6.2 for over 2 years now. No issues at all. It was -1 this morning and the truck started just fine remotely. The LT1/4/5 all recommend 0w40 and they are the same architecture as the L83/4/6/7 motors. 0w20 is only used for CAFE reasons.
 
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Anyone recommends Shell (they use natural gas instead of oil) over Castrol or Mobil for a GM car?
Triple-digit heat here in the valley during the summer months, I run Pennz Platinum 5w30 in my 3.6 Malibu and 17 Regal GS 2.0T, year-round
;)
IMG_0340.JPG
 
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How many months have you owned it and how many miles and engine running hours have you put on it.

I'd go with a 10w-30 since it's sometimes just a wee bit thinner or thicker than 5w-30 in the kv100 while having a better hths of 3.3-3.2 compared to 3.1-3.0 and a higher flash point as well. Most 10w-30's are around 10.5 kv100 and many 20 grades average 8.7 kv100 so not a big viscosity difference for the engine but a big hths difference for the engine in not hitting minimum oil film thickness in some events.

Going to 0/5w-40 is not just needed in a pretty new engine unless you get a really good price on it but 10w-60 is completely overkill. If your mechanic told you to go that thick he's plain stupid. Thicker is better but to a certain degree. But going past 12cst kv100 in a pretty new and presumably no oil consuming low revving gasoline ohv is completely unnecessary that's just driving normally in hotter temps. But a 2.6hths oil isn't very good in high engine temps if you want to own it for 200-300k with minimal to no oil consumption and/or low oil pressure related issues from excessive wear which ford has been having with their v8's that go past 100k using 5w-20. So now they spec 5w-30 in their new engines.

Will it make it to 80k highway miles towing a trailer infrequently at a higher but steady rpm with high oil pressure with no extended 0w-20 oil changes to have fresh additives yeah anything in the world will, that's nothing impressive. If it got regular 0w-20 changes then began to consume oil and/or exhibit low oil pressure from wear by just 80k highway towing miles then it's a mega pos no matter what badge is on the grille.

But bumping to a good 940ppm zn, 800ppm ph and 100ppm moly oil like Valvoline full syn high mileage 10w-30, Valvoline advanced full syn 5w-30, or better yet 5w-30 valvoline extended protection will make it last long enough for something else the oil couldn't prevent from failing to make you junk it. But don't forget your trans, radiator, and diff(s)

If you're gonna own it for just 100k within 10 years before you kick it out the house just use 0w-20. I will probably use 0w-20 in my 2021 Escalade because I've had it for 16 months since new an I've only put 5200 miles on it with around 160 engine hours because my old Yukon still puts more hours in. By 10 years my escalade would rack up just 39k if usage stays consistent which i think will. By 20 years it's under 100k but I think everything else would've fallen apart by then.

Now lets say you drive 20k miles a year and want to have it for 15 years like with my 16 year old 315k mile yukon. Then yeah a thicker oil and better oil filter would help make it reach that point with no engine teardown and notable oil consumption.
 
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GreySky

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Jan 25, 2022
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How many months have you owned it and how many miles and engine running hours have you put on it.

I'd go with a 10w-30 since it's sometimes just a wee bit thinner or thicker than 5w-30 in the kv100 while having a better hths of 3.3-3.2 compared to 3.1-3.0 and a higher flash point as well. Most 10w-30's are around 10.5 kv100 and many 20 grades average 8.7 kv100 so not a big viscosity difference for the engine but a big hths difference for the engine in not hitting minimum oil film thickness in some events.

Going to 0/5w-40 is not just needed in a pretty new engine unless you get a really good price on it but 10w-60 is completely overkill. If your mechanic told you to go that thick he's plain stupid. Thicker is better but to a certain degree. But going past 12cst kv100 in a pretty new and presumably no oil consuming low revving gasoline ohv is completely unnecessary that's just driving normally in hotter temps. But a 2.6hths oil isn't very good in high engine temps if you want to own it for 200-300k with minimal to no oil consumption and/or low oil pressure related issues from excessive wear which ford has been having with their v8's that go past 100k using 5w-20. So now they spec 5w-30 in their new engines.

Will it make it to 80k highway miles towing a trailer infrequently at a higher but steady rpm with high oil pressure with no extended 0w-20 oil changes to have fresh additives yeah anything in the world will, that's nothing impressive. If it got regular 0w-20 changes then began to consume oil and/or exhibit low oil pressure from wear by just 80k highway towing miles then it's a mega pos no matter what badge is on the grille.

But bumping to a good 940ppm zn, 800ppm ph and 100ppm moly oil like Valvoline full syn high mileage 10w-30, Valvoline advanced full syn 5w-30, or better yet 5w-30 valvoline extended protection will make it last long enough for something else the oil couldn't prevent from failing to make you junk it. But don't forget your trans, radiator, and diff(s)

If you're gonna own it for just 100k within 10 years before you kick it out the house just use 0w-20. I will probably use 0w-20 in my 2021 Escalade because I've had it for 16 months since new an I've only put 5200 miles on it with around 160 engine hours because my old Yukon still puts more hours in. By 10 years my escalade would rack up just 39k if usage stays consistent which i think will. By 20 years it's under 100k but I think everything else would've fallen apart by then.

Now lets say you drive 20k miles a year and want to have it for 15 years like with my 16 year old 315k mile yukon. Then yeah a thicker oil and better oil filter would help make it reach that point with no engine teardown and notable oil consumption.
That was very helpful, thank you. I don’t put much miles on my Yukon because I mostly use it on highways (road trips) I have a Nissan sedan for city driving. I had it for over 3 years now since it’s new and only put 40k miles. I would try the 5/10W-30 and see. Also I forget to mention that the mechanic didn’t recommend the 10W60 he just said I should use a thick one so I thought about it (apparently I see that I was wrong).
 
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That was very helpful, thank you. I don’t put much miles on my Yukon because I mostly use it on highways (road trips) I have a Nissan sedan for city driving. I had it for over 3 years now since it’s new and only put 40k miles. I would try the 5/10W-30 and see. Also I forget to mention that the mechanic didn’t recommend the 10W60 he just said I should use a thick one so I thought about it (apparently I see that I was wrong).
40k primarily highway miles in 3 years. Use whatever sub $20 jug of full syn you can find and I'd go for 10w-30 for the stability and hths of the base.
 

CKN

Joined
Oct 14, 2014
Messages
9,672
Location
Utah
How many months have you owned it and how many miles and engine running hours have you put on it.

I'd go with a 10w-30 since it's sometimes just a wee bit thinner or thicker than 5w-30 in the kv100 while having a better hths of 3.3-3.2 compared to 3.1-3.0 and a higher flash point as well. Most 10w-30's are around 10.5 kv100 and many 20 grades average 8.7 kv100 so not a big viscosity difference for the engine but a big hths difference for the engine in not hitting minimum oil film thickness in some events.

Going to 0/5w-40 is not just needed in a pretty new engine unless you get a really good price on it but 10w-60 is completely overkill. If your mechanic told you to go that thick he's plain stupid. Thicker is better but to a certain degree. But going past 12cst kv100 in a pretty new and presumably no oil consuming low revving gasoline ohv is completely unnecessary that's just driving normally in hotter temps. But a 2.6hths oil isn't very good in high engine temps if you want to own it for 200-300k with minimal to no oil consumption and/or low oil pressure related issues from excessive wear which ford has been having with their v8's that go past 100k using 5w-20. So now they spec 5w-30 in their new engines.

Will it make it to 80k highway miles towing a trailer infrequently at a higher but steady rpm with high oil pressure with no extended 0w-20 oil changes to have fresh additives yeah anything in the world will, that's nothing impressive. If it got regular 0w-20 changes then began to consume oil and/or exhibit low oil pressure from wear by just 80k highway towing miles then it's a mega pos no matter what badge is on the grille.

But bumping to a good 940ppm zn, 800ppm ph and 100ppm moly oil like Valvoline full syn high mileage 10w-30, Valvoline advanced full syn 5w-30, or better yet 5w-30 valvoline extended protection will make it last long enough for something else the oil couldn't prevent from failing to make you junk it. But don't forget your trans, radiator, and diff(s)

If you're gonna own it for just 100k within 10 years before you kick it out the house just use 0w-20. I will probably use 0w-20 in my 2021 Escalade because I've had it for 16 months since new an I've only put 5200 miles on it with around 160 engine hours because my old Yukon still puts more hours in. By 10 years my escalade would rack up just 39k if usage stays consistent which i think will. By 20 years it's under 100k but I think everything else would've fallen apart by then.

Now lets say you drive 20k miles a year and want to have it for 15 years like with my 16 year old 315k mile yukon. Then yeah a thicker oil and better oil filter would help make it reach that point with no engine teardown and notable oil consumption.
He will never get to 300,000 miles because the motor has the AFM lifters. Even if he turns them off-the hardware is still there.
 
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He will never get to 300,000 miles because the motor has the AFM lifters. Even if he turns them off-the hardware is still there.
that's true but good oil can help with bearing and ring wear which isn't easily fixed. lifters aren't a huge deal but bearings and rings yeah.
 
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That was very helpful, thank you. I don’t put much miles on my Yukon because I mostly use it on highways (road trips) I have a Nissan sedan for city driving. I had it for over 3 years now since it’s new and only put 40k miles. I would try the 5/10W-30 and see. Also I forget to mention that the mechanic didn’t recommend the 10W60 he just said I should use a thick one so I thought about it (apparently I see that I was wrong).
We need your location, for ****s sake
 
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Back in the day I used M1 15-50 in my 1992 Ford explorer and then my S-10 2.8L from dai one and never had a problem here in S Fla. Now I use what the Mfg says, I do have Jeep Grand Cherokee and as soon as it's out of warranty I will switch from 0-20 to 5-30. I think you would be OK with a 5-30 but no heavier than that. If you wante to save some $ use the Kirkland mentioned or Supertech from Wally world.
 
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