207.8342 degrees F
What is considered as 'Optimal' engine oil temperature... ?
- Thread starter Free Ride
- Start date
I don't have an ECO mode unless the normal mode is an ECO mode which is likely. Leaner running engine runs hotter but with better fuel economy.
Yep, it will do it there. Ran 265f on Atlas.
My BMW will run coolant at 117c on hwy. on track, 78-80c.
I mostly use imperial units in my day to day life and metric in my work (medical) life and when working on my cars which are metric (Except those 10 mm sockets which can never be found
)
With regard to oil temperature, I think that anything over 212F (100C) is fine. Only when tracked hard to I see temperatures over 230F in my GTI. I try not to get on the car too hard with cold oil, giving it time from a cold start, but it heats up quickly. I'm surprised that your vehicles (All VAG show different temps when driven similarly. Can you post examples?
)
We have several different petrol cars ( VW/Audi/Skoda ) in the family
where the current oil temperature can be read via the on-board computer.
I see that there is quite a large temperature difference between the cars oil temperature
when they are driven on the same road and the same distance under the same conditions.
Is there an optimum oil temperature range for a fully synthetic engine oil
when it works best and the properties of the oil work/perform at their best ?
With regard to oil temperature, I think that anything over 212F (100C) is fine. Only when tracked hard to I see temperatures over 230F in my GTI. I try not to get on the car too hard with cold oil, giving it time from a cold start, but it heats up quickly. I'm surprised that your vehicles (All VAG show different temps when driven similarly. Can you post examples?
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- Dec 27, 2023
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250F is my hard limit.
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- Oct 13, 2022
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Dumb question - isn’t the oil a pressurized system? That would mean 212F is no longer the boiling point of water, no?
Edit: I thought about it some more and we are talking engine oil temperature at a single point. It’s much hotter in the combustion chamber and the water is just boiled off and goes through the exhaust. I’m still new to all of this.
Also, all that oil in the pan isn’t under any pressure at all.
Well, water doesn't need to be boiling to evaporate, so, you don't have to hit 100C to remove the water.
And the only place it has to evaporate is where is it under air, not in the pressurized passages, so, in the cylinder head and pan, the water will evaporate into the ambient air, where it leaves the engine via the PCV system.
The presence of this water is why so many PCV systems plug/gum up. In fact, on the Volvo white block engines, the PCV pipes are heated by coolant to keep the water from condensing back out of the air.
You don't want water to condense into the oil to begin with, not even momentarily. Emulsified water, in just 0.1-0.25% concentration, can compromise MOFT. In localized high heat and pressure areas, the water can flash-vaporize resulting in erosive wear. The water can also breakdown into its constituents and adhere to the surface. (see: hydrogen embrittlement) As far as the oil goes, oxidation increases substantially at even very low concentrated dissolved states of <600 ppm. ZDDP, your primary anti-wear additive, is a phosphate ester which readily hydrolyzes in water, greatly reducing its effectiveness and promoting acidic growth. This is why it's very common to see a multiplicative increase in wear as oil temperature drops. (aside from additive response) Certain EP and AO additives are also readily hydrolyzed in water.
Thus, I don't want to wait for water to evaporate at a lower temperature. When water enters the crankcase as a vapor, it needs to leave as a vapor without any chance to condense, emulsify, or dissolve.
Thus, I don't want to wait for water to evaporate at a lower temperature. When water enters the crankcase as a vapor, it needs to leave as a vapor without any chance to condense, emulsify, or dissolve.
So, you’re advocating for higher oil temperatures as being optimum?
What range would you suggest, then?
An oil temp of roughly 220-230°F (105-110°C). That's why manufacturers
design engines this way. Evaporating oil and moisture and for lower drag.
BUT, this temp is ideal for lower to mid engine loads. For higher loads a
lower coolant and (if possible) oil temp is favourable. Your pistons require
cooling from oil splash since aluminum is not the same high temperature
strength as steel. And higher temps within the combustion chamber lead
to preignition.
For this reason the above "ideal" oil temp presume a somewhat smarter
cooling management, eg three circuits, controlled by the ECU.
That said, the mentioned oil temps and simply oil temps in the sump only.
Oil in bearings is noticeably hotter and oil between cylinder and piston are
much hotter and these temps vary wildly depending on load. Power makes
heat, more power makes more heat. Much more heat.
.
215-230°F. (or between 100-110°C for those who like to base temperature on what water feels)
13 Dart SXT 2.0l. The only time I see over 230*F is when I’m 80+mph for an extended period of time.
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Short answer to the original question:
100c (212F) is the optimal operating temperature for your motor oil.
100c (212F) is the optimal operating temperature for your motor oil.
Someone was smart and came up with KV100
OK.
100C = 212F
Imperial Translation:
KV212
What course are you on.....?
Man I would love to live near one...
VIRginia International Raceway.
2019 Ford Super Duty F350SRW LWB using Rotella T6 5w40 empty oil temp is 200-203
Towing my 42 foot 16,000 pound fifth wheel oil temp runs 210-220 depending on hills or flat.
Towing my 42 foot 16,000 pound fifth wheel oil temp runs 210-220 depending on hills or flat.
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