Demand a new engine from the shop and when/if they decline, pursue litigation.
This is the only fair way to completely address the issue.
I have friends who ask me why I chose to be a desk jockey vs. following a passion(cars) and turning wrenches. I saw too much shop politics, management trying to pad the bottom line and earn a promotion and a general attitude of send it, get paid and don’t care with the techs when I was a porter/detailer at the local Honda dealer.
I hope you’re not referring to me as a crybaby. I was happy to pay for good work. The total bill was a bit over $3,800 for the work performed, including about $900 for the sump work.you tend to lose your passion for vehicles once you work on a bunch of them for money, especially for all the crybabies who
want everything done for free. This thread is a case in point..
So sad, but it is true. It’s an unfortunate reality that there’s some very real truth behind “if you want it done right, do it yourself.”Quite honestly he would be better off biting the bullet, and paying for a new engine out of pocket, rather than roll the dice and throw a ton of cash down that rabbit hole. It costs money, A LOT of it, to pursue litigation in a courtroom today. Especially if you're the petitioner and not the respondent.
Just look into what some of these attorneys hourly rates are these days for courtroom time. Not to mention all of the hours preparing the case. Then there is the problem of trying to sue for possible, potential damage. Not provable damage that has actually occurred.
They'll come back with the whole, "We've always done these type of jobs this way, and never had a single customer complain that his engine failed because of it".
Even if he drove it, and it did end up destroying the engine, it would be hard, not to mention expensive, to prove it in a courtroom... That they, (the dealership), were the cause of the failure. The car does have what some would / could argue as, high mileage, (143,000 miles on the clock).
Not to mention the fact that he lives on the East Coast, and this would all happen in Colorado. Even if he won, the overall out of pocket cost would almost certainly be higher, than if he paid for a new engine.
Agreed plus you're trying to explain to either a jury of soccer moms and accountants or a judge why a tiny bit of fuzz on a magnet is a big deal.Quite honestly he would be better off biting the bullet, and paying for a new engine out of pocket, rather than roll the dice and throw a ton of cash down that rabbit hole. It costs money, A LOT of it, to pursue litigation in a courtroom today. Especially if you're the petitioner and not the respondent.
Just look into what some of these attorneys hourly rates are these days for courtroom time. Not to mention all of the hours preparing the case. Then there is the problem of trying to sue for possible, potential damage. Not provable damage that has actually occurred.
They'll come back with the whole, "We've always done these type of jobs this way, and never had a single customer complain that his engine failed because of it".
Even if he drove it, and it did end up destroying the engine, it would be hard, not to mention expensive, to prove it in a courtroom... That they, (the dealership), were the cause of the failure. The car does have what some would / could argue as, high mileage, (143,000 miles on the clock).
Not to mention the fact that he lives on the East Coast, and this would all happen in Colorado. Even if he won, the overall out of pocket cost would almost certainly be higher, than if he paid for a new engine.
He's entertaining sometimes. I have seen him using some abrasive attachment to clean up intake gaskets. Also loves the brake clean. If every mechanic was on video you would see this all the time.
Agreed. Pretty standard practice at most shops. There are always short cuts.He's entertaining sometimes. I have seen him using some abrasive attachment to clean up intake gaskets. Also loves the brake clean. If every mechanic was on video you would see this all the time.
I agree 100%.... I've been friends with a guy going on 35 years and for about 20 years he was the head mechanic at a local mom and pop garage near here that does lots of local business and has a very good reputation. He said every head gasket job he ever did, he used scrotchbrite and grinding disks to clean up the head and block and after checking for flatness if everything was ok, he put them back together after cleaning the surfaces with rags and brake cleaner.I know it’s hard to imagine but I would say many especially older than 40 year old mechanics technicians whatever you want to call them do NOT know to not use those discs for cleaning stuff up. It’s what they always have done and saw someone they were mentored by at some point do it.
Guys are just going through the motions of what they have done with success for years, decades etc.
Doesn’t make it right but it’s way more common than one believes and they really don’t know any better.
not you in particular, but the motoring public in general.. for $3800 clams, they should have gold plated that oil pan.I hope you’re not referring to me as a crybaby. I was happy to pay for good work. The total bill was a bit over $3,800 for the work performed, including about $900 for the sump work.
But when I pay that kind of money, at a dealer, I do expect good work.
Not a hack job.
I was an agreeable customer. I watched the technician video. Approved most (not all) of the work. Told them I was no rush for the car. That I would arrange for pick up when done.
They even asked me if I was OK with my work being delayed by a day or two to get another customer back on the road, to which I replied, “No worries, I live out of state, so you can take as long as you like, I won’t need the car until early October”.
I paid within an hour of the invoice being received. Had the car picked up the next day to avoid inconveniencing them with storage.
Look, I was billed $692 in labor for this sump work. Unbolting the part, and putting it back on takes under two hours when I do it. It’s a lot of bolts (30) and I use an electric ratchet, then torque to 13nm with my 1/4” CDI wrench. Careful. Thorough. Two hours. What takes me all afternoon is the cleaning (which I’m pretty certain wasn’t done).
Was it too much to expect reasonable care in that sump work when the technician was billed at 3.5 hours?
I even started the conversation by telling them that I was happy with the troubleshooting and repair of the suspension sensor, and of the rear axle. I paid $1,900 for the latter. $800 for the former.
I work on these things. I am intimately familiar with what the tech did, because I’ve done it my self, last month, on another car, using the Volvo specified data, including sealant, cleaning method, and torque.
Where this “technician” and I differ is in care.
I care. He didn’t.
I think the key is how clean you get it. I will tell you I like using the brake clean and have never had a problem when I do use it.I agree 100%.... I've been friends with a guy going on 35 years and for about 20 years he was the head mechanic at a local mom and pop garage near here that does lots of local business and has a very good reputation. He said every head gasket job he ever did, he used scrotchbrite and grinding disks to clean up the head and block and after checking for flatness if everything was ok, he put them back together after cleaning the surfaces with rags and brake cleaner.
I asked him if he had ever heard of the problems pads and scotchbrite causes..."Nope, news to me, did a whole (blank) ton of them that way".... If they were warped, off to the machine shop. If they were flat, wipe the contact surfaces clean and put them back together.
Back in my younger days long before I was educated to avoid pads and scotchbrite, I did a couple head gasket jobs doing the same thing, one on a V6 Mustang convertible and the other was a 4 cyl Mercruiser boat engine when I pulled the head to fix a cracked manifold. Both were within spec for flatness so they got put back together as is. The Mustang was on the road a good number of years after that without issue until my brother in law traded it for a newer one. The boat engine was fine for the 6-7 years I used it after that and then I sold it to my friend about 10 years ago who only just recently got rid of it but it was fine the entire time he had it.
Maybe I was lucky or did an adequate job cleaning them up before reassembly. Never checked the bearings or tore apart the oil filters after doing either of those, so perhaps there was a lot of damage going on I simply didnt know about. Awful lot of debris on that magnetic plug and in the oil filter pictures posted above, so I'm not sure that kind of luck is going on here. Could be a costly and difficult battle to prove though if it comes down to that.
This is a very sad thread. If it were my car, I'd be livid. Curious to see what the UOA's will look like. Also if there are any screens in the turbo oil lines I'd be digging into those too, you really dont want those plugged up.
exactly... if the bonehead who did the original work in the original post didn't clean the oil pan when he was done, its a different problems than someone using a scotchbrite pad to clean some surfaces and was clean about how they do the job.. see mechanics working on stuff in filthy environments still exercising due caution by covering the device in question with rags, and cleaning it well before re assembly...I think the key is how clean you get it. I will tell you I like using the brake clean and have never had a problem when I do use it.
I think the photo of the drain plug photo after 225 miles (see the first post in the thread) shows just how well this “technician” cleaned everything...I think the key is how clean you get it. I will tell you I like using the brake clean and have never had a problem when I do use it.
he didn't... and you already noted it and hopefully the oil filter and an oil change took care of it..I think the photo of the drain plug photo after 225 miles (see the first post in the thread) shows just how well this “technician” cleaned everything...
not you in particular, but the motoring public in general.. for $3800 clams, they should have gold plated that oil pan.
It was just over $900 for the pan work. High, but as I said, if they had actually done a good job…More than I would have liked to pay for this quality of work...
Parts: $233.25
Labor: $682.12
Here you go, and no, surprisingly, they didn’t change filter.
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