Volvo dealer used abrasive wheel to clean engine sump

Astro14

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Background: after seeing the butchery, and ineptitude, I’ve seen from “technicians” at various dealerships, independent shops, and specialists, I do all my own maintenance, even AC, in the shop I have. I have dealer level software (VIDA for Volvo and DAS/XENTRY for Mercedes)

I take my car to dealers for recalls, or state inspections. I have a favorite alignment shop. That’s it. I do everything else.

But, I have a car I keep in Colorado that I drive every other month. My 2004 V70R. A fairly rare Volvo model with a six speed manual, four piston Brembos, AWD, and electronic suspension.

Unfortunately, I have no tools or workshop in Colorado, so, I am forced to rely on “mechanics”.

The set up: In August, the car was in the downtown Denver Sheraton garage and it cranked but wouldn’t start. Fuel puddled on the ground. I had nothing but dress clothes, so I had it towed to Macdonald Volvo.

They fixed the problem (fuel line disconnected from the fuel filter) and recommended some other repairs. One of which was to re-seal the engine sump to fix an oil leak. I authorized that repair.

This is not uncommon for Volvos of that vintage. I recently did the repair on my wife’s V70XC.

Here is the sump of that car (an identical part) when it came off:

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I carefully cleaned the mating surfaces with a razor blade and solvent, as directed by VIDA (Volvo maintenance manual software. I carefully cleaned the interior with a bronze brush and solvent. Looked great. Installed new o-rings. Rolled out the pink anaerobic sealant, shown, and then Reinstalled.

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So, I am very familiar with the work.

What the technician did: He used an abrasive power wheel to clean the mating surfaces of the block and sump. I’ll post pictures in a bit. They refilled the sump with six quarts of Castrol synthetic 5W30.

This is where I get upset. Volvo says razor blade or scraper for a reason. Abrasive gets into the engine when you use power abrasives. Those abrasive bits that aren’t caught by the filter, either because of small size, or from where they were flung by the power tool, will destroy bearings and pistons, rings, cams, lifters, everything that the oil touches.

Pure mechanical incompetence.

But you trust a dealer to follow manufacturer procedure, don’t you?

It’s a good thing I am an oil nerd. Because I am an @High Performance Lubricants fan, I took the car up to @wwillson house and we drained the oil and changed the filter so I could put the car back on its HPL regimen. It had 225 total miles since the dealership work.

Disastrous Discovery: Wayne pulled the magnetic drain plug and we saw this:

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That is a shocking amount of debris for 225 miles.

It gets worse….
 
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What the oil filter showed:

We removed and cut the filter. And here are the photos:

Macro view when it first came out.

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Here is the filter after letting the oil drain for a day.

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Well, that sure looks like sanding grit to me. Every pleat. Son-of-a-……

This “technician” put all this junk in my engine!
 
What to do:

Though it breaks my heart to dump 6 quarts of HPL with only 180 miles on it, I drove up to see Wayne with six quarts of new oil the next day. So, from this:

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To this:

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with a new filter.

A quick check of the magnetic plug after 180 miles:

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Better.

Let’s look at the filter.

IMG_2472.jpeg


Also, better.
 
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Follow up:

I will run this Mobil 1 flush for another 200 or so miles (it’s about 75 miles up to Wayne’s house, so I can’t run it any less).

Then drain that (hot, after a nice highway run) and change the filter again.

That will be three oil changes in the first 600 miles After this bozo did such a poor work. And talking with Wayne, and others, that should get all of the suspended debris out of the engine. The real concern is this, if some of that debris made it past the filter and ended up in bedded in the bearing material, there will continue to be very high wear.

So.

Next oil drain, we will send out the Mobil 1 for analysis.

With the new HPL fill after that, we will sample and do an analysis.

I need to know what the wear metals look like.

oh, and in case you’re wondering what proof I have that this “trained technician” used an abrasive wheel?

Here are bright, new marks on the block, and on the front differential, showing rotary abrasive motion, where this mechanic bumped into it during his use.

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Good luck you will probably need it.
Might have to get owner involved escalate out of service dept.
I agree, and I will escalate to whatever degree is necessary to get them to warranty the engine. Including to Volvo of North America. I own 5 Volvo’s. I am in the market for a new one. I am a good customer, the kind of guy that they should want to keep as a customer. I’m also a fairly serious person, and I do have the resources to pursue this further, should that be necessary.

If, as I suspect, they will claim their work was “normal”, they should have no problem warranting the lubricated parts of the engine.

The fact is that I cannot yet make a claim of damage because the degree of damage has yet to be determined. However, I want the conversation, about the desire for a warranty and my evidence, to take place today.
 
And y'all laughed at me for quoting the GM training video telling us to beware of abrasives during open engine work 😳

I'm sorry this happened or you, there's plenty of incompetence around these days

It seems you did your homework and kept receipts, I'd expect some form of compensation, or I'd get a lawyer to get it for me

The audacity 🤬
 
And y'all laughed at me for quoting the GM training video telling us to beware of abrasives during open engine work 😳

I'm sorry this happened or you, there's plenty of incompetence around these days

It seems you did your homework and kept receipts, I'd expect some form of compensation, or I'd get a lawyer to get it for me

The audacity 🤬
I was not among those laughing, I promise.

A brief perusal of YouTube last night, showed literally dozens of very popular mechanics, showing you how to use power tools with abriasives during open engine work.

It was genuinely shocking; how much incompetence was publicly displayed as a “better way” to work.
 
I know dealerships are marketed to be the best but I never understood how being incentivized to work as fast as possible doesn’t involve corner cutting. I also do all my own work. People tell me im crazy but after seeing the ordeals others go through with car repairs i just feel bad for them and happy i did my own work.
 
I carefully cleaned the mating surfaces with a razor blade and solvent, as directed by VIDA (Volvo maintenance manual software. I carefully cleaned the interior with a bronze brush and solvent. Looked great. Installed new o-rings. Rolled out the pink anaerobic sealant, shown, an
Does this procedure apply to the Volvo in question? Just covering all the bases.
 
The guy that did that is a butcher but that seems to be par for the course these days, you wouldn't believe some of the stuff I have seen.
I use roloc or bristle disc on some things but never on an engine or even around an engine, the abrasives from either one will pass any filter oil or air and will do damage. I hope you get some satisfaction, this really sucks and you paid for it.
From what I see there are very few good mechanics left, the ones that are around are usually not in a dealership working flat rate.
 
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