My gen 1 3.5 Ecoboost; An inauspicious Start

[B1974]

Good to see you're undoing the neglect and getting good results. 4k OCI or less is what these engines need. I'm running M1 0w40 in mine.

 

[tcp71]

There is no EGR on a first gen eco. Crankcase vent to intake, but no EGR. It's a simulated EGR using some valve timing magic.

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/dissecting-fords-ecoboost-engine/

All GTDI engines use twin independent variable cam timing (Ti-VCT) to adjust timing on both intake and exhaust cams, except for the 3.5L engine that’s not in the F-150; these use intake phase shifting (IPS) controlling only the intake camshaft. VCT systems use oil pressure-controlled actuators to rotate the camshafts to advance or retard engine timing based on operating conditions. Besides providing reduced emissions and increased engine power, Ti-VCT also allows for the elimination of the EGR valve. This is accomplished by controlling the overlap between the intake valve opening and the exhaust valve closing, allowing a small amount of exhaust gases to be pulled into the cylinder during the intake stroke.

 

[supton]

That did not happen changing Mobil 1 at 5k OCI’s …
No comments on the “friend” …

Comment was tongue in cheek. Some guys talk about taking their “good” oil that they know they are short changing and run in their OPE. It was Mobil 1 the first time they used it, so now its Mobil 2 while in the lawnmower.

 

[D60]

Well written OP. I enjoyed it and didn't need AI to understand it.

 

[meep]

Love it. Keep on keepin on!

 

[Brons2]

Great thread! Love your cleanup methodology. At 46K in, I'd keep on keeping on with what you're doing.

Fordtechmakuloco did a video about changing the filter screens on the turbos, maybe something to consider for the long term health of your engine and turbos. Also these early 3.5 EB have a vacuum pump that is prone to failure, there's another Fordtechmakuloco video on that.

 

[Eddie Hudson]

Was any UOAs done?

 

[sandcritter]

Thought about it in course of, but decided not to bother, at least until filters come out clean. Thought about the unmeasurable amount of trash in engine contaminating specimen, including old sludge, varnish, carbon, all from who knows what old oils, now all back in suspension. Also history of poor air filter maintenance (was a water-logged oily mess when got it), combined with inevitably elevated wear metals I’d hazard - I just didn’t see how the data could possibly affect the present course of action. We’ll see. Maybe later.

 

[benjy]

interesting reading + with todays high cost hope your success continues, good luck!!

 

[sandcritter]

Turned 172,500mi. Pics of last three filters, all 2,500 mi oci. The top one (oldest in series) looks pretty rough, considerable fine silt-like carbon debris, was first one I went 2,500mi, up from 1,600mi oci. The 1,600 oci btw had been looking pretty clean (relatively), so welcomed going 2,500mi going into winter.

Middle filter was next. Bottom filter is most recent and still a bit damp/shiny with oil, but nonetheless, see relatively less debris. Unclear to me why the sudden dump of carbon in the first/top filter.

Again, HPL PCMO 5w40 summer, Premium Plus 0w40 winter. Endurance 10575 filters.

 

[Gasbuggy]

Wow. Recently did turbos, manifolds, turbo oil and coolant lines with my brother on his 2012 Platinum. A seriously not a fun job doing out in the cold. Considering your mileage, I'd start budgeting for that job.

 

[AdmiralYoda]

I don't know these engines well but I'd be curious as to how it looks under the valve covers. And it might not be a bad idea to clean the oil pickup screen again and while your at it replace the oil pump!

I'm amazed at how much carbon you collected in just 2,500 miles. HPL is the real deal!

And I've always wondered if adding a quart of EC30 to HPL's oil would make it clean even more, or if it would just be a waste.

 

[sandcritter]

Wow. Recently did turbos, manifolds, turbo oil and coolant lines with my brother on his 2012 Platinum. A seriously not a fun job doing out in the cold. Considering your mileage, I'd start budgeting for that job.

Yup. Exhaust port to tail pipe this spring. Prompted by both exhaust manifold gaskets leaking, so might as well clean house/upgrades.

 

[sandcritter]

I don't know these engines well but I'd be curious as to how it looks under the valve covers. And it might not be a bad idea to clean the oil pickup screen again and while your at it replace the oil pump!

I'm amazed at how much carbon you collected in just 2,500 miles. HPL is the real deal!

And I've always wondered if adding a quart of EC30 to HPL's oil would make it clean even more, or if it would just be a waste.

Right. Engine was severely sludged when bought (my mistake), went straight in for timing chain and while there valve covers and oil pan cleaned. Have bore scoped last summer thru oil fill hole; pretty clean, a few specks of what appears to be carbon here/there on castings and nooks/crannies, but really, looks alright up top. I’d like to think at some point the engine runs out of crap to let loose, and can extend oil filter changes. But 70k mi later, while have made progress, am still having to use short intervals….

Edit: oil pump WOULD have been great idea, if done when engine open for the timing chain. Cost prohibitive, now. If it needs another chain, given the cost, will probably drop a performance reman engine into it instead.

 

[twX]

Is the filter media at the top of the photo just as dry as those in the first photos you posted? It would make for a better comparison if they were all dry.

If the media is that dark when dried out, I'd think there's a pretty good chance that those filters are clogged to the point of bypassing. With a bypass setting of 18-24 psi on those filters, there would be quite a large drop in oil pressure when the filters clog, which might not be too healthy for the engine.

A proper oil pressure gauge might not be a bad investment. With a bypass setting that high, it should be easy to notice when the filter is clogged and needs to be changed.

 

[AdmiralYoda]

Food for thought, I'm sure the truck's computer knows the exact oil pressure. Perhaps a bluetooth OBDII scan tool and an app for your phone like Torque will tell you what the real oil pressure is.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Is it possible the friend didn't really know it was sludged up this bad?

 

[tcp71]

I can check if my scangauge can show actual oil pressure. My 2016 is basically the same engine with some evolutionary updates. I've run edge 0w40 since new (first change was at 500 miles) and just turned over 80k miles.

 

[sandcritter]

The oil pressure diagnostic is a welcomed reminder. Will do that next time in shop.

As for friend, I think he was aware it was dirty, as had pulled the crank sensor and replaced, which was filthy. That is a major clue in this engine that one likely is needing/shortly will need, a timing chain. He had to know that. I don’t think he knew *how* bad off the engine was with sludge, however. So, it sucks, but I deal with it and roll on. Life isn’t fair, buyer beware, and all that.

 

[meep]

i didnt wanna read it all so i pasted into chat gpt and asked it to summarize:

"The user shares a story about purchasing a 2012 F150 xlt ecoboost, initially in good condition but later discovered to have engine issues. Despite recommendations to sell, they decide to keep the truck and undertake extensive oil and filter maintenance, including using various oils and additives. The user's switch to HPL oil appears to have helped manage engine carbon debris. They express concerns about the long-term impact of carbon debris on engine wear but continue to drive the truck, which has surpassed expectations in mileage. The user is also seeking a shop for intake valve cleaning."

But then you miss some of the most interesting information, which is the real world experience of the cleaning power of the different oils and chems tried.