Volvo dealer used abrasive wheel to clean engine sump

I didn't read the whole thread, but as a former mechanic (master tech at Toyota and various independent shops) I can say that there are a lot of hacks and parts-changers out there. Finding someone who can and will use proper practices to repair or replace something is rare.

In professional racing, that level of hack work simply wouldn't fly.

Sorry to see the effects of hack work you paid good money for.
 
you tend to lose your passion for vehicles once you work on a bunch of them for money, especially for all the crybabies who
want everything done for free. This thread is a case in point..
A friend once said this - don’t turn a passion/hobby into a career. It will backfire. He did just that years later and got burned out.

My mom’s one of those “something for nothing” people.
 
A friend once said this - don’t turn a passion/hobby into a career. It will backfire. He did just that years later and got burned out.

My mom’s one of those “something for nothing” people.
Depends on the career, I would think. Still very passionate about my real job, which involves flying airplanes.

Clearly, though, some folks don’t belong in the career that they’ve chosen, if they’re not willing to give their full best effort.

Imagine, as example, that you meet the Captain of your flight to London, and he is burned out, likes to cut corners, likes to skip certain steps, and freely admits that he doesn’t follow published procedures, but he tells you not to worry, because nothing bad has happened as a result of his shortcuts…
 
Beating a dead subject as its all been said. Yet here I go. I too have seen the damage done by this method. A flat machined surface on my EJ253's aluminum intake manifold rounded drastically at the edges, and deep gouging other places. Yep, I too had the head gaskets done under warrantee by a ""Subaru dealer "south of Boston years ago. They likely use this method on heads as well, although it was obvious mine were machined because a great deal of material was taken before according to the machine shop I used for the next head gaskets I did. The next time new heads will be needed depending...
Mechanics today are mostly paid according to the jobs they complete. Period. Taking all day to do a oil pan gasket will not only get you fired but will starve your family. If the book time says 4 hours then the expectation is it will take less than 4. Living in the rust belt, i have to admit they are tough to get apart. If... I was getting paid for my work I would go hungry and be fired. I take forever. Mostly because I don't have an Oxy - acetylene torch and I rely on WD and hammers. Ok, OK. A Sawzall too. Ok? I said it for all the world to know. A Sawzall. Hack! Yep I use razor blades too but not on the same parts.
During my short stint as an oil-change/tune-up tech, the lead mechanic, a very fine Scot, told me that he had worked flat-rate in the past, and hoped to never do so again. He said a clear conscience was a good thing, but it didn't put bread on the table for his family.
 
he should’ve used a white roloc instead of the cookie

nobody has time to waste with a razor blade. good luck proving a comeback either, that thing is probably gonna crack the block before it spins a bearing anyways.
 
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he should’ve used a white roloc instead of the cookie

nobody has time to waste with a razor blade. good luck proving a comeback either, that thing is probably gonna crack the block before it spins a bearing anyways.
And just how would a ROLOC be any better?

A ROLOC is just another abrasive disc, different construction - same contamination of the engine with abrasives. Same aluminum oxide, right?

A hack mechanic technique. If you don’t have time to do it right, maybe you shouldn’t be doing it. If you don’t have time to do it with a razor blade, maybe don’t charge book rate of $690 in labor, since you accomplished a whole lot less than what you were paid to do.

Again, would you be OK if, as you boarded my flight, along with 250 others, if I got on the PA and told you that I don’t have time to do things right, that I always cut corners, I always use my own methods, instead of what is required by Boeing or the FAA, and that since nothing bad has happened from my doing things my own way, you will be fine.
 
Update on the car. 240 miles on the Mobil 1 0W40, drained and refilled with HPL 0W40 supercar. My sincere thanks to @wwillson for his garage, tools, and time. He snookered me, though, and we went out to dinner where his step son works, preventing me from picking up the check.

Next time, Wayne, dinner is on me!

IMG_2496.jpeg


Filter from 240 miles ago had time to dry. Looked pretty good. A few bits of colored material - old anaerobic sealant perhaps? So, if the use of the disc didn’t get abrasive in the engine, how did it sling bits of old sealant in the there? Yeah…
IMG_2494.jpeg


That filter shown next to the filter we just removed, the one that just came out looked pretty good.

IMG_2497.jpeg


We pulled a sample from the Mobil 1 that was drained out, and I will post the results when we get it.

Three changes complete - if there was anything in suspension, I think we got it.

And, I used one of the magical, made from unicorn fur, Volvo filters that capture every particle, regardless of size…so, should be good… :rolleyes:
 
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Update on the car. 240 miles on the Mobil 1 0W40, drained and refilled with HPL 0W40 supercar. My sincere thanks to @wwillson for his garage, tools, and time. He snookered me, though, and we went out to dinner where his step son works, preventing me from picking up the check.

Next time, though, dinner is on me!

View attachment 184246

Filter from 240 miles ago had time to dry. Looked pretty good. A few bits of colored material - old anaerobic sealant perhaps? So, if the use of the disc didn’t get abrasive in the engine, how did it sling bits of old sealant in the there? Yeah…View attachment 184247

That filter shown next to the filter we just removed, the one that just came out looked pretty good.

View attachment 184248

We pulled a sample from the Mobil 1 that was drained out, and I will post the results when we get it.

Three changes complete - if there was anything in suspension, I think we got it.

And, I used one of the magical, made from unicorn fur, Volvo filters that capture every particle, regardless of size…so, should be good… :rolleyes:
Good of @wwillson to treat you. Good man.
Man, that looks like progress. Fingers crossed.
Being a huge performance Volvo fan, specifically the 850 T5-R Yellow Wagons. Please share pics of your V70R...another of my favorites.
Any IPD goodies bolted to it?
 
Posted a picture of the V70R in the snow, in this thread. In Loveland Pass last winter. 4 Blizzaks on OEM “Pegasus” wheels.

Post in thread 'Wagon superiority thread'
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wagon-superiority-thread.330650/post-6405820

I since installed an OEM Volvo set of crossbars, and a Yakima ski rack. Detracts from the looks a bit, but I am ready for the upcoming ski season. Just got my new bindings and skis mounted.

Washed it last week, here it is in Colorado, with the summer Michelins on new Pegasus, of course it rained later that day, and it’s dirty again…

IMG_2483.webp
 
And just how would a ROLOC be any better?

A ROLOC is just another abrasive disc, different construction - same contamination of the engine with abrasives. Same aluminum oxide, right?

A hack mechanic technique. If you don’t have time to do it right, maybe you shouldn’t be doing it. If you don’t have time to do it with a razor blade, maybe don’t charge book rate of $690 in labor, since you accomplished a whole lot less than what you were paid to do.

Again, would you be OK if, as you boarded my flight, along with 250 others, if I got on the PA and told you that I don’t have time to do things right, that I always cut corners, I always use my own methods, instead of what is required by Boeing or the FAA, and that since nothing bad has happened from my doing things my own way, you will be fine.

if techs wanted to be paid less to do things the right way they’d go work as an A&P. clock in clock out book more hours go home. it’s just a car
 
if techs wanted to be paid less to do things the right way they’d go work as an A&P. clock in clock out book more hours go home. it’s just a car
So, if poured abrasive in your engine, and walked away, you’d be cool with that, because “it’s just a car”?

If I pay for a job, why shouldn’t I expect it to be done correctly?

Tell me up front that you don’t care, that you’re going to do it badly, and cause damage, and save us both the hassle.
 
if techs wanted to be paid less to do things the right way they’d go work as an A&P. clock in clock out book more hours go home. it’s just a car

A car is the way most people go to work. If you would like your slogan to be "we cut corners, it's just a car" then post it on your shop.
 
Good of @wwillson to treat you. Good man.
Man, that looks like progress. Fingers crossed.
Being a huge performance Volvo fan, specifically the 850 T5-R Yellow Wagons. Please share pics of your V70R...another of my favorites.
Any IPD goodies bolted to it?
There are several IPD bits on this car.

Previous owner: IPD performance downpipe, and the cat back exhaust.

IPD cold air intake (a bizarre contraption that I would not have bought - it pulls air in from behind the left fog light to allow more flow to the air filter. It works, but it sure adds to complexity if you’re working in that area of the engine.)

IPD R model boost gauge on the dash.

Me:

IPD stainless steel brake lines.

IPD swaybar links.

IPD silicone cooling hoses and power steering suction line. Those are visible in one of the engine photos, not visible in the photos are the IP anodized spark plug cover bolts and fuel injection cover bolts in blue to match the blue R model plastic.

IPD silicone turbo boost control lines.

IPD heavy duty TCV.

IPD Haldex electronic module shield.

DO-88 aluminum radiator.

There are probably a few others, that I am forgetting, the previous owner was an IPD fan, as am I.
 
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There are several IPD bits on this car.

Previous owner: IPD performance downpipe, and the cat back exhaust.

IPD cold air intake (a bizarre contraption that I would not have bought - it pulls air in from behind the left fog light to allow more flow to the air filter. It works, but it sure adds to complexity if you’re working in that area of the engine.)

IPD R model boost gauge on the dash.

Me:

IPD stainless steel brake lines.

IPD swaybar links.

IPD silicone cooling hoses and power steering suction line. Those are visible in one of the engine photos, not visible in the photos are the IP anodized spark plug cover bolts and fuel injection cover bolts in blue to match the blue R model plastic.

IPD silicone turbo boost control lines.

IPD heavy duty TCV.

IPD Haldex electronic module shield.

DO-88 aluminum radiator.

There are probably a few others, that I am forgetting, the previous owner was an IPD fan, as am I.
Fabulous car.
 
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