Indeed, much uncertainty with this kind of screwup. No it's not a mistake, it's lazyness and/or stupidity.I’m not one who handles uncertainty very well….
Volvo dealer used abrasive wheel to clean engine sump
- Thread starter Astro14
- Start date
This is what I would be most concerned about. Turbos operate at insane RPM's and temperatures. And they're certainly not the cheapest part to replace.
Yep. And the turbo charger in this model is fairly rare, it’s significantly larger than on the regular turbo models of the vintage.
Late edit: this turbo is out of stock at every supplier I’ve checked.
The only option, at the moment, is a local shop and a shop in Golden did the work on my 1985 Volvo Turbo wagon turbo back in 2000 for a reasonable price.
Or something like this.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11144/4T4-Turbocharger-for-Volvo-IPD-124563
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Yeah on my diesel truck a fleck of casting sand probably or a metal shaving took out my he351ve turbo. So then I found a 6 micron absolute 6655566 hydraulic filter I added that to the turbo oil feed line. It filters about 1qt per minute at idle and 3qt per minute on the highway. The little 6655566 lasts about 5,000 miles, I'm usually changing the oil around 3,000 to 4,000 miles.
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I lost all respect for him when he had a TDI in his shop. He even stated on camera this isn't probably the right oil (some 5W30) but that's what the customer wants.. He's a good diagnostic mechanic but a hack otherwise in my book. You are correct though, for the money what would you expect.
This thread just hurts me as @Astro14 cares for all his Volvos meticulously.
My bad I'm thinking in hydraulic filters again.
A lot of good information there. But I think this is pushing it a bit.......
"It takes about 15♦seconds to remove 0.203♦mm (0.008♦in) of metal with an abrasive pad".
With a grinding disk, even that is a lot. With a Scotchbrite pad, that much removal that fast is highly unlikely. But it doesn't change the fact they can contaminate the internals with fly off abrasive particles that quick.
So many variables there. What grade are they talking (red/coarse, blue/medium etc) and by hand or with a power tool? If the latter, what's the surface speed of the disc?
Finally, over what amount of area and what's the material being treated?
I could maybe see gouging a thin line about 8 thou deep in 15 seconds in steel with your average 10k rpm die grinder and a 3" disc, but you'd have to have that as your objective to make it happen.
He's entertaining sometimes. I have seen him using some abrasive attachment to clean up intake gaskets. Also loves the brake clean. If every mechanic was on video you would see this all the time.
I think the only thing I remember being told was try to use a plastic scraper or wood so that you don't take any metal off of any of the metal substrate.
Was the material on the drain plug kind of like a paste or was it bigger chunks? Those scotchbrite pads tend to turn the metal into a dust, then if it gets wet it turns to a kind of paste like sludge material and gets all over everything like anti seize that’s kind of hard to get off unless you scrub it good.
Exactly. Using an abrasive disc on the pan, while not preferred, is usually fine if the tech runs the entire pan thru the parts washer.
But never use it on the block side….the dust (once airborne) is an issue.
Also, the anaerobic sealant has limited gap fill and is intended to seal finely machined surfaces. Once you use a powered abrasive wheel on either surface, there is a moderate likelihood of creating low spots (due to material being removed)…and anaerobic sealer may no longer be sufficient to seal.
Aye, and I feel like a hack using a red Scotch-Brite by hand to remove OE RTV. I admit to using a red abrasive wheel to wizz off the RTV on a Toyota 3MZ-FE valley plate/thermostat housing - but it wasn’t an oil-bearing area. It was the intake ports and coolant passages. I took care to try to blast away with compressed air, brake clean and towels any grit I can feel. No water pump failure or abnormal oil usage, it’s been 2 years since the repair.
The TSBs the OEs put out are just “best practice”. In reality, when you’re trying to beat the book, care falls to speed. I’ve since resorted to plastic razor blades and carbide scrapers to remove RTV. I’ll use abrasives only if I can completely clean tbe part off car.
The TSBs the OEs put out are just “best practice”. In reality, when you’re trying to beat the book, care falls to speed. I’ve since resorted to plastic razor blades and carbide scrapers to remove RTV. I’ll use abrasives only if I can completely clean tbe part off car.
I have friends who ask me why I chose to be a desk jockey vs. following a passion(cars) and turning wrenches. I saw too much shop politics, management trying to pad the bottom line and earn a promotion and a general attitude of send it, get paid and don’t care with the techs when I was a porter/detailer at the local Honda dealer.
If you take the service manager at his word (which is worthless), this isn't a mistake. It's standard procedure for that particular dealer's service department. Standard procedure for that shop that every manufacturer that addresses it warns you against doing.
I would address how what they did compares to the manufactures' warnings, the results so far in your engine (drain plug and filter), and the comments by the service manager that it's standard procedure in Yelp, Google Maps, and every other online rating service you can think of. An ad stating what they did in the local newspaper is optional. The truth is an absolute defense against libel.
I would address how what they did compares to the manufactures' warnings, the results so far in your engine (drain plug and filter), and the comments by the service manager that it's standard procedure in Yelp, Google Maps, and every other online rating service you can think of. An ad stating what they did in the local newspaper is optional. The truth is an absolute defense against libel.
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