A half mile? What's the difference between driving like a normal person and as fast as you can, 10 seconds? Are you kidding?
Volunteer Firefighter - Oil Recommendation Needed
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Originally Posted By: bepperb
A half mile? What's the difference between driving like a normal person and as fast as you can, 10 seconds? Are you kidding?
LOL I missed the half mile part. My nephew is driving about 2+ miles.
A half mile? What's the difference between driving like a normal person and as fast as you can, 10 seconds? Are you kidding?
LOL I missed the half mile part. My nephew is driving about 2+ miles.
Use the recommended oil for your climate and think severe operating conditions. Shorter oil change intervals. That is how your tool is used and if the oil pumps when cold there is nothing else you can do. Block heater oil, pan heater etc??? The engine will still be cold until it is warmed up.
If you value your new truck get a reliable beater vehicle to respond to these calls!
And thanks for your service as a volunteer. I was in public service for 32 years but I was paid. I'm impressed that people do it as a volunteer.
I ran for a number of years starting in the mid-eighties, until our area was annexed into a neighboring municipality.
We had devices known as Plectrons at the time and I can still vividly remember being toned out on many a night, with the aural alert from the dispatcher sending us to an accident, an alarm drop or a working structure fire. I can still play our tones vividly in my head.
I lived about as far from the firehouse as you do and I can tell you that the speed with which you can get out of bed, get your wits about you and throw some clothes on will dwarf the amount of time you spend driving to the firehouse.
Trying to drive fast for a very short distance will do nothing other than cause you to abuse your vehicle.
You also need to be aware of the possibility of other responders also trying to speed to the house.
If you arrive at the house, jump into your turnouts, and are sitting for several minutes with a truck pulled out ready to roll while awaiting other responding crew, then you've abused your vehicle for no reason at all.
My advice would be to move quickly but deliberately.
Finally, fire deaths are usually caused by a failure to raise a prompt alarm, not by a minute or two in delayed response time by a fire department.
You have to lay hose and pack up before even entering an involved structure in any event and you may even have to vent the roof before making an entry.
A room fire can be quickly dealt with, but when you see smoke rolling from under the eaves, the house is probably already lost anyway and any occupant who hasn't self-evacuated is likely already gone.
We had devices known as Plectrons at the time and I can still vividly remember being toned out on many a night, with the aural alert from the dispatcher sending us to an accident, an alarm drop or a working structure fire. I can still play our tones vividly in my head.
I lived about as far from the firehouse as you do and I can tell you that the speed with which you can get out of bed, get your wits about you and throw some clothes on will dwarf the amount of time you spend driving to the firehouse.
Trying to drive fast for a very short distance will do nothing other than cause you to abuse your vehicle.
You also need to be aware of the possibility of other responders also trying to speed to the house.
If you arrive at the house, jump into your turnouts, and are sitting for several minutes with a truck pulled out ready to roll while awaiting other responding crew, then you've abused your vehicle for no reason at all.
My advice would be to move quickly but deliberately.
Finally, fire deaths are usually caused by a failure to raise a prompt alarm, not by a minute or two in delayed response time by a fire department.
You have to lay hose and pack up before even entering an involved structure in any event and you may even have to vent the roof before making an entry.
A room fire can be quickly dealt with, but when you see smoke rolling from under the eaves, the house is probably already lost anyway and any occupant who hasn't self-evacuated is likely already gone.
Originally Posted By: totegoat
After a call, I would run the engine up to operating temperature before parking it.
Already do that - I go for a drive after a call, both to get the engine to operating temperature and to calm myself down.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
A half mile? What's the difference between driving like a normal person and as fast as you can, 10 seconds? Are you kidding?
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Use a stopwatch (smart phones have them already on them) and take the drive at higher RPMs and see how long it takes to get there.
Then go back home and start the stopwatch and take it at 2,000-2,500 RPMs and see how long it takes get there.
If you only save a few seconds, it likely won't make a difference.
I try to maintain a reasonable speed and follow the speed limit, but sometimes the adrenaline and urgency gets to me, which means that I may drive a bit more aggressively than what is appropriate. Also, sometimes it's about beating the other guys to the truck if I haven't made a call in a while!
I'm used to letting the truck warm up for 30 seconds to a minute before driving off to make sure the oil is flowing properly, I'm more concerned about the cold (-15c or so) starts that don't really give me time to warm up the engine as I would prefer.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Use the recommended oil for your climate and think severe operating conditions. Shorter oil change intervals. That is how your tool is used and if the oil pumps when cold there is nothing else you can do. Block heater oil, pan heater etc??? The engine will still be cold until it is warmed up.
Yes, I am doing shorter OCIs and following severe service conditions. Thank you!
Originally Posted By: Old Mustang Guy
And thanks for your service as a volunteer. I was in public service for 32 years but I was paid. I'm impressed that people do it as a volunteer.
I feel that it is something that I can do to give back to the community. Plus I get to play with a fire truck and hydraulic tools!
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I ran for a number of years starting in the mid-eighties, until our area was annexed into a neighboring municipality.
We had devices known as Plectrons at the time and I can still vividly remember being toned out on many a night, with the aural alert from the dispatcher sending us to an accident, an alarm drop or a working structure fire. I can still play our tones vividly in my head.
I lived about as far from the firehouse as you do and I can tell you that the speed with which you can get out of bed, get your wits about you and throw some clothes on will dwarf the amount of time you spend driving to the firehouse.
Trying to drive fast for a very short distance will do nothing other than cause you to abuse your vehicle.
You also need to be aware of the possibility of other responders also trying to speed to the house.
If you arrive at the house, jump into your turnouts, and are sitting for several minutes with a truck pulled out ready to roll while awaiting other responding crew, then you've abused your vehicle for no reason at all.
My advice would be to move quickly but deliberately.
Finally, fire deaths are usually caused by a failure to raise a prompt alarm, not by a minute or two in delayed response time by a fire department.
You have to lay hose and pack up before even entering an involved structure in any event and you may even have to vent the roof before making an entry.
A room fire can be quickly dealt with, but when you see smoke rolling from under the eaves, the house is probably already lost anyway and any occupant who hasn't self-evacuated is likely already gone.
Thank you for your service. What you say is quite true. I try to drive at the speed limit to the fire hall - we have had a few members be given citations for exceeding the speed limit, and one member earned the "A**hole of the Year" award for overturning a vehicle while responding to a call. The tones sure do get your adrenaline going at 2AM in the morning - instantly awake!
Every night, I make sure I have a pair of sweatpants and socks ready to go in case of a call. We are lucky in that we have a relatively new truck with air packs built into the seats - we can pack up on the way to a call, jump out, grab a speedlay hose and be spraying water within 30 seconds.
After a call, I would run the engine up to operating temperature before parking it.
Already do that - I go for a drive after a call, both to get the engine to operating temperature and to calm myself down.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
A half mile? What's the difference between driving like a normal person and as fast as you can, 10 seconds? Are you kidding?
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Use a stopwatch (smart phones have them already on them) and take the drive at higher RPMs and see how long it takes to get there.
Then go back home and start the stopwatch and take it at 2,000-2,500 RPMs and see how long it takes get there.
If you only save a few seconds, it likely won't make a difference.
I try to maintain a reasonable speed and follow the speed limit, but sometimes the adrenaline and urgency gets to me, which means that I may drive a bit more aggressively than what is appropriate. Also, sometimes it's about beating the other guys to the truck if I haven't made a call in a while!
I'm used to letting the truck warm up for 30 seconds to a minute before driving off to make sure the oil is flowing properly, I'm more concerned about the cold (-15c or so) starts that don't really give me time to warm up the engine as I would prefer.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Use the recommended oil for your climate and think severe operating conditions. Shorter oil change intervals. That is how your tool is used and if the oil pumps when cold there is nothing else you can do. Block heater oil, pan heater etc??? The engine will still be cold until it is warmed up.
Yes, I am doing shorter OCIs and following severe service conditions. Thank you!
Originally Posted By: Old Mustang Guy
And thanks for your service as a volunteer. I was in public service for 32 years but I was paid. I'm impressed that people do it as a volunteer.
I feel that it is something that I can do to give back to the community. Plus I get to play with a fire truck and hydraulic tools!
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I ran for a number of years starting in the mid-eighties, until our area was annexed into a neighboring municipality.
We had devices known as Plectrons at the time and I can still vividly remember being toned out on many a night, with the aural alert from the dispatcher sending us to an accident, an alarm drop or a working structure fire. I can still play our tones vividly in my head.
I lived about as far from the firehouse as you do and I can tell you that the speed with which you can get out of bed, get your wits about you and throw some clothes on will dwarf the amount of time you spend driving to the firehouse.
Trying to drive fast for a very short distance will do nothing other than cause you to abuse your vehicle.
You also need to be aware of the possibility of other responders also trying to speed to the house.
If you arrive at the house, jump into your turnouts, and are sitting for several minutes with a truck pulled out ready to roll while awaiting other responding crew, then you've abused your vehicle for no reason at all.
My advice would be to move quickly but deliberately.
Finally, fire deaths are usually caused by a failure to raise a prompt alarm, not by a minute or two in delayed response time by a fire department.
You have to lay hose and pack up before even entering an involved structure in any event and you may even have to vent the roof before making an entry.
A room fire can be quickly dealt with, but when you see smoke rolling from under the eaves, the house is probably already lost anyway and any occupant who hasn't self-evacuated is likely already gone.
Thank you for your service. What you say is quite true. I try to drive at the speed limit to the fire hall - we have had a few members be given citations for exceeding the speed limit, and one member earned the "A**hole of the Year" award for overturning a vehicle while responding to a call. The tones sure do get your adrenaline going at 2AM in the morning - instantly awake!
Every night, I make sure I have a pair of sweatpants and socks ready to go in case of a call. We are lucky in that we have a relatively new truck with air packs built into the seats - we can pack up on the way to a call, jump out, grab a speedlay hose and be spraying water within 30 seconds.
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All the gas powered fire trucks in my area (smaller vehicles up to 1 1/2 ton) all use Chevron Supreme. They go from dead cold to full power out of the barn in less than 60 seconds. And those engines last over 100K...
Use common sense about your oil. But don't get crazy. And like all the other said, slow down to go fast. Easy on the throttle and eyes wide.
You never know what sort of nut-job just torched a barn and is trying to cut you off while you drive in ...
Use common sense about your oil. But don't get crazy. And like all the other said, slow down to go fast. Easy on the throttle and eyes wide.
You never know what sort of nut-job just torched a barn and is trying to cut you off while you drive in ...
Castrol Magnatec 5W-20, full synthetic, with a special additive that clings to metal parts and resists drain down to help on start-up.
Where can one get Magnatec in Canada?
I haven't seen it regularly yet, but NAPA Canada has it, at least in 60 litre kegs.
CATERHAM said:
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes it's a positive displacement pump but if the relief valve is open, which limits the maximum oil pressure, some oil will be diverted back to the sump. This will happen even with a 0W-20 at higher rev's and moderately cold temp's but of course less so than with a lower viscosity index 5W-20.
Again ???
we two have been through this what, 50, 60 times the last number of years ?
The amount of oil flowing through the relief matters not a [censored]...the bearings will draw only that which they need from the pressurised oil gallery (correct oil feed location will suck oil some considerable head upwards)...the pump delivering more than they need means that you get oil pressure.
Oil pressure and flow aren't lubrication...as boobydavro stated, the oil film is generated in the convergence of the bearing surfaces moving relative to each other.
Again, go back to the theory that I've tried to coach you in, but you keep coming out with the same incorrect stuff.
An oil pump in relief is nothing to be concerned about, while you continually paint it as near disaster.
in the OP's case, the 5W will heat the engine up slightly quicker (heat transfer from the mains into the water jacket) than the 0W...
Yes it's a positive displacement pump but if the relief valve is open, which limits the maximum oil pressure, some oil will be diverted back to the sump. This will happen even with a 0W-20 at higher rev's and moderately cold temp's but of course less so than with a lower viscosity index 5W-20.
Again ???
we two have been through this what, 50, 60 times the last number of years ?
The amount of oil flowing through the relief matters not a [censored]...the bearings will draw only that which they need from the pressurised oil gallery (correct oil feed location will suck oil some considerable head upwards)...the pump delivering more than they need means that you get oil pressure.
Oil pressure and flow aren't lubrication...as boobydavro stated, the oil film is generated in the convergence of the bearing surfaces moving relative to each other.
Again, go back to the theory that I've tried to coach you in, but you keep coming out with the same incorrect stuff.
An oil pump in relief is nothing to be concerned about, while you continually paint it as near disaster.
in the OP's case, the 5W will heat the engine up slightly quicker (heat transfer from the mains into the water jacket) than the 0W...
Haha 'boobydavro' - I want to change my username to that
Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
In terms of valvatrain protection. Then Magnatec is well proven at reducing cold wear.
This says it all, and it's from somebody who does know.
In terms of valvatrain protection. Then Magnatec is well proven at reducing cold wear.
This says it all, and it's from somebody who does know.
30yr volunteer firefighter here.1/2 of that as chief. Slow yourself down is what I would recommend. Had that talk with my guys once or twice a year.Kind of a race to the fire hall? I hope you are kidding. That wouldn't fly on our department.Sheriffs dept has our blessing to issue tickets for that. Young guys were the worst us older guys have mostly got it figured out. The seconds you might save getting to the hall might also be the life you take rushing. Now as far as oil I don't know. What about those big fire trucks from cold to go without any warm up? Stay safe my friend.You have to get to the incident to help,sometimes that may take a little longer to be safe.
Don't give it a second thought, unless other FF's are complaining about having blown up motors previously.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes it's a positive displacement pump but if the relief valve is open, which limits the maximum oil pressure, some oil will be diverted back to the sump. This will happen even with a 0W-20 at higher rev's and moderately cold temp's but of course less so than with a lower viscosity index 5W-20.
Again ???
we two have been through this what, 50, 60 times the last number of years ?
The amount of oil flowing through the relief matters not a [censored]...the bearings will draw only that which they need from the pressurised oil gallery (correct oil feed location will suck oil some considerable head upwards)...the pump delivering more than they need means that you get oil pressure.
Oil pressure and flow aren't lubrication...as boobydavro stated, the oil film is generated in the convergence of the bearing surfaces moving relative to each other.
Again, go back to the theory that I've tried to coach you in, but you keep coming out with the same incorrect stuff.
An oil pump in relief is nothing to be concerned about, while you continually paint it as near disaster.
in the OP's case, the 5W will heat the engine up slightly quicker (heat transfer from the mains into the water jacket) than the 0W...
It's not about the bearings but the volume of oil getting to the other parts of an engine that need a good quantity such as the camshaft lobes,
cylinder walls etc. And the higher the rev's the lower the operational viscosity of the oil must be to maintain an adequate supply.
So if one plans on using any rev's to speak of after first firing up an engine, one needs to consider more than just the winter rating of an oil. To that end, a 0W-20, particularly a very high VI 0W-20, will provide better lubrication under the operating conditions our volunteer fireman will be subjecting his engine.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes it's a positive displacement pump but if the relief valve is open, which limits the maximum oil pressure, some oil will be diverted back to the sump. This will happen even with a 0W-20 at higher rev's and moderately cold temp's but of course less so than with a lower viscosity index 5W-20.
Again ???
we two have been through this what, 50, 60 times the last number of years ?
The amount of oil flowing through the relief matters not a [censored]...the bearings will draw only that which they need from the pressurised oil gallery (correct oil feed location will suck oil some considerable head upwards)...the pump delivering more than they need means that you get oil pressure.
Oil pressure and flow aren't lubrication...as boobydavro stated, the oil film is generated in the convergence of the bearing surfaces moving relative to each other.
Again, go back to the theory that I've tried to coach you in, but you keep coming out with the same incorrect stuff.
An oil pump in relief is nothing to be concerned about, while you continually paint it as near disaster.
in the OP's case, the 5W will heat the engine up slightly quicker (heat transfer from the mains into the water jacket) than the 0W...
It's not about the bearings but the volume of oil getting to the other parts of an engine that need a good quantity such as the camshaft lobes,
cylinder walls etc. And the higher the rev's the lower the operational viscosity of the oil must be to maintain an adequate supply.
So if one plans on using any rev's to speak of after first firing up an engine, one needs to consider more than just the winter rating of an oil. To that end, a 0W-20, particularly a very high VI 0W-20, will provide better lubrication under the operating conditions our volunteer fireman will be subjecting his engine.
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