Valvoline R&P test ... 1k on oil burning crv

[Nessism1]

How would that be possible without a UOA? I get it, I'm guilty as well. I observed a darker and dirtier dipstick oil when I ran HPL for about 6k and changed it before I hit my 3.6's usual 7500OCI. BUT that was on feelings and my bias expectation of some cleaning going on despite the assumption my engine is pretty clean.

Your logic on changing early is sound. Using UOA's for every decision would be expensive.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

How would that be possible without a UOA? I get it, I'm guilty as well. I observed a darker and dirtier dipstick oil when I ran HPL for about 6k and changed it before I hit my 3.6's usual 7500OCI. BUT that was on feelings and my bias expectation of some cleaning going on despite the assumption my engine is pretty clean.

Feelings and bias expectations and/or visual results, sometimes works out better than numbers, when testing new products.

Whenever an oil brand change occurs, never get married to a specific OCI number for the new product, prior to use.

I once tried Supertech default Syn. I ended-up pulling it after 1.5k and replaced it with Supertech Advanced 20k. The visual, smell and streak results were much-much better and I kept it-in twice as long.

 

[Bill7]

Which cleans heavy varnish better:
1 quart HPL EC30 + regular full synthetic, or Valvoline Restore & Protect.

Likely there is no answer to this question at this time. But would be good to eventually find out.

 

[Mewbs]

Which cleans heavy varnish better:
1 quart HPL EC30 + regular full synthetic, or Valvoline Restore & Protect.

Likely there is no answer to this question at this time. But would be good to eventually find out.

Running a high solvency combo running both VRP and HPL EC on the friend's KIA. Will report back in a few months or 5k depending if the car reaches the mileage break point. The oil didn't darkened in nearly 1K miles which is a good sign the BG EPR flush did something. The oil combo is to clean out the crank case and whatever piston deposits remain through the oil service.

Following up with this, she came yesterday for a PCV valve swap. She drove 970 miles since the change and her dipstick level hasnt gone down much. I did topped off with another half quart of HPL EC so now it has 3.5 quarts of VRP with 1 quart of EC 30.

Took some shots of her fill port as a baseline reference.

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[Bill7]

Running a high solvency combo running both VRP and HPL EC on the friend's KIA. Will report back in a few months or 5k depending if the car reaches the mileage break point. The oil didn't darkened in nearly 1K miles which is a good sign the BG EPR flush did something. The oil combo is to clean out the crank case and whatever piston deposits remain through the oil service.

Thanks Mewbs. Please keep us posted.

It seems any cleaner can clean sludge. The BG EPR solvent engine flush, the HPL EC30, the Valvoline Restore and Protect are likely to all be good at cleaning the piston rings.

My use case is a bit different. No sludge at all. Engine doesn't burn any all.
I had a valve cover gasket replacement done.
Mechanic said he saw a thick coat of brown/orange varnish under the valve cover.
Varnish is extremely difficult if not impossible to remove.

Was just asking whether HPL EC30 or Valvoline Restore and Protect would be effective at cleaning the varnish.

 

[Mewbs]

My use case is a bit different. I had a valve cover gasket replacement done.
No sludge at all. But a thick coat of brown/orange varnish under the valve cover.
Varnish is extremely difficult if not impossible to remove.

Was just asking whether HPL EC30 or Valvoline Restore and Protect would be effective at cleaning the varnish.

Someone already posted that VRP is cleaning varnish on the baffle plate on a Honda engine fill port. The oil is doing a good job at cleaning. You can find evidence of cleaning in the HPL EC thread in the Oil Additive section of the forums posted by various users.

New Valvoline Oil

I could have sworn you made mention somewhere about seeing clean areas forming inside the oil fill area, presumably because of the R&P. As I mentioned early on this thread I was trying it in our bought new by us, nice weather, exceptionally well maintained, and respectfully driven 255K mile...

bobistheoilguy.com

High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner

Thank you. I figured something was in it to make it smell so good, It was pretty noticeable when I drained the oil. I took a quick whiff out of the HPL PCMO 5w-30 bottles and the smell is certainly sweet and fruit like. I stained a shop towel with a bit of it and over night my workbench linger a...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Stumpy]

I don't see the point in running an oil like this and changing it at 10k intervals. If I had a car that was burning oil, due to sludge and carbon, I'd change much sooner than that.

I see this a great oil for any engine that has the cylinder deactivation system. Most if not all, especially the LS engines and Honda V6's are semi notorious for oil gumming the rings and excessive oil consumption. Will be good for all these turbo engines that generate lots more heat than non-boosted engines.

 

[GSCJR]

No where has Valvoline claimed that the cleaning is so significant that you need to do something different. They have just about stated the opposite that it is meant to be a slow cleaning so as not to introduce problems.

Exactly. Not everyone buying this oil:

1) Is aware that their engine has sludge.
2) Has any sludge to begin with.
3) Is interested in doing any type of cleaning or even aware of it's cleaning capabilities.
4) Is interested in doing a very short OCI.
5) Is interested in dong an interval less than the OE recommends, think of Toyota @ 10k miles.

Maybe, they're just buying the oil because, well, just because. People don't overthink things as we do here.

Let's say an engine locks up from the oil's cleaning abilities and starts plugging up passages, are they going to go after Valvoline? I don't think so.

 

[doublebase]

If anyone wants to send me a jug or two, I'll run it for 10k miles straight! I'll even let the group decide on the filter. See my sig for engines available during testing.

You could run maple syrup in the 2GRFE and it wouldn’t care.

I’m considering using Restore and a protect in my 2GRFE, but then again I’m also considering doing something a little extreme (for me), running Amsoil SS for 20,000

 

[GSCJR]

@doublebase, you're right the 2GR-FE is a solid engine but it must be filthy in there , it only gets whatever oil is on the shelf (currently CEB 5w-30) and ProSelects. Ours is a short tripper so it gets an oil and filter change every six months, it only accumulates about 5k kms each time.

I say go for the Amsoil!

 

[cheesepuffs2]

I once tried Supertech default Syn. I ended-up pulling it after 1.5k and replaced it with Supertech Advanced 20k. The visual, smell and streak results were much-much better and I kept it-in twice as long.

What's a streak result?

 

[Dave1027]

As to the recommended OCI, the Valvoline R&P website states to use the vehicle manufacture's OCI recommendation.

 

[oil pan 4]

The 3k mile recommendation comes from these two Valvoline guys, in this Motor Oil Geek video. They note that the filter is pretty dirty after only 3k miles, so they recommend running the oil and filter for only 3k miles.

But wouldn't it seem, that by the third R&P oil change, that it could be ran longer?



I went back and watched the video again, and could not find where they talked about a 3k oil change. But starting at about 14:30, they talk about potentially overwhelming the filter. It may have been here on BITOG, in discussing this video, that others suggested that perhaps a 3k oci was wise with R&P.

But perhaps just a filter change at about 3k - 4k miles, may be the thing to do.

I had a post about doing 3 to 4 thousand mile oci on a sludged up neglected dodge pickup and using restore and protect. Only reason was because the oil in that truck looked worse at 3,000mi than my typical 5,000 to 6,000mi oil coming from vehicles I've had for a long time and taken care of.
It was backed up by seeing way more dirt in the used oil filters from that pickup than I'm used to seeing in used oil filters from my long time vehicles. But those extra dirty oil filters were still no where near being clogged or having scarry levels of sludge in them.
If you've taken care of your vehicle, changed the oil on time and the R&P still looks fairly clean at 3,500mi keep running it.

 

[JTK]

I'm going to try R&P in my new to me 2021 Equinox 1.5T with ~39K miles on the ticker. I know it's not dexos-1, but I won't run it past 3500-5000mi anyway. The vehicle showed dealer oil changes every 5K or less up until I bought it with 35K miles on it, but it still had some grunge under the oil fill cap and I don't trust the PCV orifices, etc on the GM LYX 1.5.

It's $10 more per jug than I'm used to, but I should be able to financially recover from this.

 

[scip5.3L]

I'm going to try R&P in my new to me 2021 Equinox 1.5T with ~39K miles on the ticker. I know it's not dexos-1, but I won't run it past 3500-5000mi anyway. The vehicle showed dealer oil changes every 5K or less up until I bought it with 35K miles on it, but it still had some grunge under the oil fill cap and I don't trust the PCV orifices, etc on the GM LYX 1.5.

It's $10 more per jug than I'm used to, but I should be able to financially recover from this.

Yeah I am gonna run it in my 2020 Sierra 5.3L, not Dexos like you said but F it, I'm gonna run it. Already bought the 10 quarts just waiting till my next OCI.

 

[mcrn]

 

[oil pan 4]

Good thing I'm running an oversized synthetic endurance filter.
Probably should have kept with the oversized wix xp.