Using a 10/40 high mileage oil in a Toyota vvti
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I understand when you say "the repair ain't going to happen." Don't worry, use the 10w-40. If it help low the leak, great . Please let us know. I've used heavier weight oil successfully to slow a leak. If it doesn't then go to plan B.
Repairs are also available for vehicles that are not functioning properly. Low mileage Toyota's of any vintage or model sell for a premium on the used market. You could easily sell the car and get a newer vehicle of a different make. Best part is, it may not even leak!
I wish I knew what to repair...no leak, no smoke...just using oil @ 1qt/2k miles...for now, adding oil is the only (and thankfully the cheapest) effective remedy.
I would seriously stay with a 30 weight and again will recommend Maxlife semi syn in the 10W30 weight. Maxlife is the only HM oil that really helped in any of the driver and collectable cars that I have owned(over 60)... Just not a HM oil but a very good lubricant.
Originally Posted By: JoelB
If you're too cheap to repair it then just sell the car and get one that isn't leaking.
hahahaha!!! ^^^ thanks i just broke the silence in the office here. and getting looks on whats so funny...
If you're too cheap to repair it then just sell the car and get one that isn't leaking.
hahahaha!!! ^^^ thanks i just broke the silence in the office here. and getting looks on whats so funny...
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Well I thought I would give an update 4 years later. To all the naysayers that insisted on fixing it, been using a 10w40 with positive results. The engine runs great and the oil leaks less. A win for 10w40. It also starts just fine in the cold.
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This response of yours makes complete sense to me. Thank you for it.
Makes sense, didn’t realize the post was so old so was baffled at people that wanted to spend 2+k fixing a 15+ year old Avalon. My dad had one of these (inherited from my grandmother) one of the more comfortable cars I’ve been in and very very smooth.
Interesting that people are telling you anything more than a 30wt oil will stop VVT from working properly. Where I’m currently living, we have a Corolla with a VVT engine, and it comes with TMO 20w50 from the factory. Yes it’s quite hot here (up to 40c summer and down to 14c winter), but at operating temp, a 20w50 here is still more viscous than a 5w30 back in the States.
the VVTi is purportedly programmed differently depending on Geo location; I have not verified this.
I have had many cars with VVTi, and they loose bottom end torque and drivability with too thick of an oil.
And this is with engine HOT. Engine warm-up performance is sub-optimal with most any oil. This thick oil effect is more noticeable on AT cars than stick cars.
I say try it you should notice any effect in day to day travels. Also keep tabs on fuel mileage.
You may find that if you normally run high speed highway travels- you will like the thicker oil.
- Ken
Interesting…well I’m living in Karachi, Pakistan, so the Corolla is specifically our grocery getter and doesn’t leave the traffic-laden city streets. Perhaps I’ll give it a try.
Check out this Australian owners manual for a Camry Hybrid VVTi
You can use everything from 0W16 to 15W40 and keep your factory warranty.
I’m very sure half the people in Australia with your Toyota engine would be running 10W40 or 15W40. We put that grade up in everything. You will be fine.
You can use everything from 0W16 to 15W40 and keep your factory warranty.
I’m very sure half the people in Australia with your Toyota engine would be running 10W40 or 15W40. We put that grade up in everything. You will be fine.
I am going to use 5w-40 in our FJ cruiser soon. We shall see how it reacts to that. With our 100+ summer temps even a 40 should be thin enough to not effect the variable cam timing
FYI, book time on this job is 19.6 hours. Nobody is "skimming the cream' other than the manufacturer; TSB labor times are almost always manufacturer warranty time, which means the only people getting hosed are the techs doing the jobs under warranty, and the 19.6 time is much closer to how long the job will actually take.
I hear the opposite, we in Australia get exactly the same engine and programming as everybody else in the world, the only thing they change on some imported models is the suspension tune.
Book time assumes you have been trained for that car/engine and have all the SSTs needed for service “by the book”. In the real world at a flat-rate dealership shop, the goal for a tech is to beat book time by whatever means possible. If that involved shortcuts or hacks, so be it.
yep - there was reason why GM had a separate proving ground for Holden and up until the Australian auto industry was folded, there was either separate models for that country(Commodore or Falcon) or heavily localized versions(Camry). Now, it’s mostly Thai or Korean/Japanese imports. The RHD conversion of the Silverado/Camaro/Corvette should be… interesting.
In a small 4-cylinder Toyota, I’m leery for thicker oil on those. I’ve ran a thick 10W-30 in a Prius recently that was closer to a 15W-40.
The V6/8 cars I’m not as concerned - the OMs aren’t worded with dire straits if anything besides a 0W-20/5W-30 is used besides the MPG hit. Now, with the new Dynamic Force M20/A25 engines built around 0W-16, that would be all I would use.
The V6/8 cars I’m not as concerned - the OMs aren’t worded with dire straits if anything besides a 0W-20/5W-30 is used besides the MPG hit. Now, with the new Dynamic Force M20/A25 engines built around 0W-16, that would be all I would use.
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