Unwilling to accept the data, staying with 2-3k oil changes

Nice post. Thanks. How do you typically find the clearance sales?
Great question.

In this section of BITOG " Product Rebates, Sales and Promotions". Recommendation is to subscribe to this section of BITOG, and you will receive notification of sales, clearances, etc.

On a not so happy note, pre COVID many of the major "big box" auto parts retailers would regularly drop an oil product line at the end of year OOA December and replace with a different product line the beginning of January. Post COVID, this practice rarely occurred. The one exception post COVID has been Tractor Supply, which seems to continue the practice of removing one producer of motor oil for another producer.

Being a member of BITOG has saved me thousands of dollars in motor oil, and more importantly, I always have oil ready to use in my garage, so I don't have to run to the store, and find the oil I want out of stock, or at a crazy high price.

It is work to get the clearance items. Mapping out all the stores, having a plan to make efficient and timely visits before the clearance items are sold out, and finally looking around for clearance inventory in the wrong spot, so when one is "last to the store", still finding the clearance oil, after the easy to find clearance oil was already sold.
 
Possible those who had issues with those low tension ring engines might have did better with early oil changes, but we'll never really know.
Or maybe they just weren’t using the right oil to begin with. A lot of people swear by Kirkland and Supertech synthetics because they’re so cheap but maybe now they’re seeing that the lower tier synthetics just don’t keep things as clean as the mid tier and top tier stuff.
 
I never go past 3k. Owned 8+ Hyundai vehicles and never had one issue. Two were sold with over 150k miles and one (ThetaII 2.0T) with over 240k miles. Do I know there's a correlation? No, but my assumption is, there is. I used everything under the sun including lots of Valvoline white bottle.
 
The head engineer for the Nissan GTR advocates 2000 mile oil changes for his car and all cars if you want to get maximum engine protection. I can't support or disprove his claim but that is it, there is a video out there with the statement they make.
in the video interview with him I saw he said find the cheapest oil in spec and change it every 5k to last forever.
 
Great question.

In this section of BITOG " Product Rebates, Sales and Promotions". Recommendation is to subscribe to this section of BITOG, and you will receive notification of sales, clearances, etc.

On a not so happy note, pre COVID many of the major "big box" auto parts retailers would regularly drop an oil product line at the end of year OOA December and replace with a different product line the beginning of January. Post COVID, this practice rarely occurred. The one exception post COVID has been Tractor Supply, which seems to continue the practice of removing one producer of motor oil for another producer.

Being a member of BITOG has saved me thousands of dollars in motor oil, and more importantly, I always have oil ready to use in my garage, so I don't have to run to the store, and find the oil I want out of stock, or at a crazy high price.

It is work to get the clearance items. Mapping out all the stores, having a plan to make efficient and timely visits before the clearance items are sold out, and finally looking around for clearance inventory in the wrong spot, so when one is "last to the store", still finding the clearance oil, after the easy to find clearance oil was already sold.
I bought two kits from FCPEuro. Have the next one in my garage ready to go. Once the first drain and done and goes back I get credited the $150 or so for it back. Shipping it’s $18 for everything. So there’s the upfront cost but $18 to run 5k oil changes of Red Line is awesome.
 
Or maybe they just weren’t using the right oil to begin with. A lot of people swear by Kirkland and Supertech synthetics because they’re so cheap but maybe now they’re seeing that the lower tier synthetics just don’t keep things as clean as the mid tier and top tier stuff.
This⬆️. I’m not sure lower oci’s help. These deposits start immediately with oil that can’t handle the heat imo. The real question is trying to figure out which oils can keep pistons clean. The other twist is it’s engine dependent as some people never have oil consumption problems.
 
I change the oil my vehicles every 2-3k. The majority of the oil I use is Mobil or Shell/Pennzoil. All the oil I use is obtained at clearance prices, typically in the $1-$2 per quart price range.


My theory, likely erroneous is that changing the oil every 2-3k miles with an excellent oil, is a safer bet then changing the oil every 10k miles with an outstanding oil

Reading many oil analysis, it seems my theory is erroneous, but I am staying the course. One of my unvalidated reasons was my F350 with a 5.4 3 v, which did heavy towing nationwide, for 200k miles.

Never had the timing chain and related issues that everyone else had at less than half the miles I had, and many of the 5.4 3v owners never towed. I always believed that the very frequent oil changes mitigated the flaw in the cam phaser/timing chain issues.
Whatever floats your boat!
 
Great question.

In this section of BITOG " Product Rebates, Sales and Promotions". Recommendation is to subscribe to this section of BITOG, and you will receive notification of sales, clearances, etc.

On a not so happy note, pre COVID many of the major "big box" auto parts retailers would regularly drop an oil product line at the end of year OOA December and replace with a different product line the beginning of January. Post COVID, this practice rarely occurred. The one exception post COVID has been Tractor Supply, which seems to continue the practice of removing one producer of motor oil for another producer.

Being a member of BITOG has saved me thousands of dollars in motor oil, and more importantly, I always have oil ready to use in my garage, so I don't have to run to the store, and find the oil I want out of stock, or at a crazy high price.

It is work to get the clearance items. Mapping out all the stores, having a plan to make efficient and timely visits before the clearance items are sold out, and finally looking around for clearance inventory in the wrong spot, so when one is "last to the store", still finding the clearance oil, after the easy to find clearance oil was already sold.
I went so hard at the M1 AP, RGT, and VME that I finally have the last jug in use - VME. Oh, and I finally did smell it and yeah it seems to have had ester whereas the AP was majorly PAO.
Point being, during that period the clearance lubes could actually be a great lube that just did not sell …
 
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This⬆️. I’m not sure lower oci’s help. These deposits start immediately with oil that can’t handle the heat imo. The real question is trying to figure out which oils can keep pistons clean. The other twist is it’s engine dependent as some people never have oil consumption problems.
Are you on round 4 of VRP?
 
I change the oil my vehicles every 2-3k. The majority of the oil I use is Mobil or Shell/Pennzoil. All the oil I use is obtained at clearance prices, typically in the $1-$2 per quart price range.


My theory, likely erroneous is that changing the oil every 2-3k miles with an excellent oil, is a safer bet then changing the oil every 10k miles with an outstanding oil

Reading many oil analysis, it seems my theory is erroneous, but I am staying the course. One of my unvalidated reasons was my F350 with a 5.4 3 v, which did heavy towing nationwide, for 200k miles.

Never had the timing chain and related issues that everyone else had at less than half the miles I had, and many of the 5.4 3v owners never towed. I always believed that the very frequent oil changes mitigated the flaw in the cam phaser/timing chain issues.
GON
What year is your 5.4L 3v?
 
2007 F350, which is actually a 2006. Ford made 2007s Super Duty in name only, they all were actually 2006s with a 2007 title.
Thanks
With proper maintenance, I think the 5.4L 3v motors are excellent.
My current daily driver is a 2011 Ford Expedition EL King Ranch 4x4 with 400k+ miles on it, with Zero Timing Chain/Cam Phaser Issues.
I've owned it just over 14 yrs
 
This⬆️. I’m not sure lower oci’s help. These deposits start immediately with oil that can’t handle the heat imo. The real question is trying to figure out which oils can keep pistons clean. The other twist is it’s engine dependent as some people never have oil consumption problems.
Exactly.

Sequence VH is run on a Ford 4.6L 2V Modular. This is a 216hr test, for 216hrs to equal 3,000 miles for example, that's an average vehicle speed of 13.9 mph, 5,000 miles, 23.15 mph.

The Modular is not exactly what I would call "hard on oil", and a pass does not require pristine oil control rings or lands.
 
We have the GM 2.4L direct injection engine. It has a reputation for clogged pcv orifices, blown rear mains, oil consumption, stretched timing chains, clogged oil control rings. Nobody knows the root cause(s) but my money is on the clogging pcv orifice.

Regardless, we are betting on very frequent oil & filter changes to reduce maintenance and reduce the probability of catastrophic failure. And trying Valvoline R&P for the rings.
 
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