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Could you go 12K+ miles between oil changes with it in your CX-9?The 10W-20 performed exceptionally in my Mazda CX-9!
Could you go 12K+ miles between oil changes with it in your CX-9?The 10W-20 performed exceptionally in my Mazda CX-9!
Most likely could have done more.Could you go 12K+ miles between oil changes with it in your CX-9?
One change and the second run is still in the sump. I will sample again in about three weeks at about 27,500 miles.Was that 2 oil changes with HPL?
Glorious, wwillson !Most recent UOA:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-20-18-700-miles-on-oil-158-700-total.370335/
These pictures are taken with a bore scope through the filler in the driver's side valve cover.
I started using HPL HDEO 5w-20 in this vehicle at 112,000 miles. The first oil change interval was 26,000 miles and we saw a lot of cleaning evidenced by the black debris trapped by the oil filters.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...6l-hpl-cj-4-5w-20-26-015-miles-on-oil.347523/
The second change is still in the engine and has been in service for 24,500 miles. The engine now has a total of 164,000 miles.
Under valve cover pictures - Dodge Durango 164,000 miles total
- wwillson
- 8
- 1
This engine has been running HPL 5w-20 HDEO for 52,000 miles
Fine as long as you don't have catalytic converters or diesel particulate filters.I've been adding my drain oil to my fuel oil tank.
I want to grumble about the time that oil is in the crankcase, but the multiple UOA's and the super clean pictures don't really give me a leg to stand on. This is not enough, though, for me to forgo my position that the smart money is on the $22 branded 0W20 for five quarts oil most likely from Amazon or Wal-Mart, changed our every 5k.
Iron increases pretty much linearly with mileage, so that's totally normal. Condemnation point used by @Doug Hillary was 150ppm over his 2 million km testing for XOM. Copper appears to have plateau'd, it's not bearing material, as, IIRC, the Pentastar has bi-metal bearings, it's likely leaching from a cooler or something. Silicon is low, and also seems to be pretty consistent.Very clean indeed, impressive results.
I do want to address the increasing PPM of Iron, copper, and silicon. I don't know what the norm should be, maybe that's still off the charts low, but at what point does the wear metals dictate the next oil change?
I recently looked under the valve cover in my 08 2.3 fusion and it was as spotless. Looked like new. Years ago I used some mmo and sea foam from time to time. More recently I flushed with a quart of mineral spirits and have used Rislone as of late. All cheap stuff and probably 60/40 synthetic and conventional oil changes. Average of 7k mile ocis. So I don’t think a guy needs expensive oil or expensive additives.Most recent UOA:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-20-18-700-miles-on-oil-158-700-total.370335/
These pictures are taken with a bore scope through the filler in the driver's side valve cover.
I started using HPL HDEO 5w-20 in this vehicle at 112,000 miles. The first oil change interval was 26,000 miles and we saw a lot of cleaning evidenced by the black debris trapped by the oil filters.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...6l-hpl-cj-4-5w-20-26-015-miles-on-oil.347523/
The second change is still in the engine and has been in service for 24,500 miles. The engine now has a total of 164,000 miles.
Under valve cover pictures - Dodge Durango 164,000 miles total
- wwillson
- 8
- 1
This engine has been running HPL 5w-20 HDEO for 52,000 miles
Why use all that after market stuff when you can use an oil that is made for extended drains and clearly keeps an engine spotless?Years ago I used some mmo and sea foam from time to time. More recently I flushed with a quart of mineral spirits and have used Rislone as of late.
If you’re buying Rislone, and mineral spirits, and MMO, and SeaFoam, and oil that you’re changing several times for each time that Wayne changes his oil, then you are spending a LOT more money on oil changes than Wayne.I recently looked under the valve cover in my 08 2.3 fusion and it was as spotless. Looked like new. Years ago I used some mmo and sea foam from time to time. More recently I flushed with a quart of mineral spirits and have used Rislone as of late. All cheap stuff and probably 60/40 synthetic and conventional oil changes. Average of 7k mile ocis. So I don’t think a guy needs expensive oil or expensive additives.
If a guy changes his own oil it’s cheaper that way but if he pays others to do it, it might be more similar in cost to use a line like HPL HDEO and pay for UOAs.
And of course solvents have the inherent risk of increasing wear, since they are not good lubricants. You are also diluting the oil and additive package as well.If you’re buying Rislone, and mineral spirits, and MMO, and SeaFoam, and oil that you’re changing several times for each time that Wayne changes his oil, then you are spending a LOT more money on oil changes than Wayne.
Even without the Rislone, and solvents, you are spending more.
But if you need Rislone and solvents, to combat the conditions in your engine, then whatever you’re doing has been a failure.
Why not use a better oil, that lasts longer, and doesn’t need all those extra additives?
You would save a lot of money. And your engine would be better off.
Ive used those things some times during its life. Not a lot. Not sure how much they helped. That’s just what I’ve done through the years. Exclude the cost of oil analysis and it’s cheaper to just change the oil for me. I’ve used more supertech or clearance sales than anything so definitely cheaper for me. Not knocking his routine at all though. I think he’s doing his vehicles well and also showing that there is more than one good way.If you’re buying Rislone, and mineral spirits, and MMO, and SeaFoam, and oil that you’re changing several times for each time that Wayne changes his oil, then you are spending a LOT more money on oil changes than Wayne.
Even without the Rislone, and solvents, you are spending more.
But if you need Rislone and solvents, to combat the conditions in your engine, then whatever you’re doing has been a failure.
Why not use a better oil, that lasts longer, and doesn’t need all those extra additives?
You would save a lot of money. And your engine would be better off.
I dunno if HPL was a thing for most of those years. I certainly didn’t know about it if it was. What I’ve done with it seems to have done well for it so I dunno why not. The majority was just changing oil. Here and there I used a cleaner.Why use all that after market stuff when you can use an oil that is made for extended drains and clearly keeps an engine spotless?
Well that’s what I hear a lot but I haven’t had a problem yet from doing a flush here and there. I doubt I’ve ever done a long enough oci to need to worry if mmo or Rislone weakens the add pack. Sea foam, I’ve concluded that I think it’s probably not very effective anyway but used as a flush years ago and I did a kerosene 1 qt idle flush before oil change on that car.And of course solvents have the inherent risk of increasing wear, since they are not good lubricants. You are also diluting the oil and additive package as well.