Uncle Tony on oil filters.

To add ... he claims that only big chunks from a blown-up engine is the only debris that causes wear to an engine, all the "normal" dirt/debris doesn't. Guy should just remove the oil filters on all his vehicles, and since they "only filter at an idle", that makes it an even better reason to not use an oil filter at all, lol. Bet he's never read one wear vs oil cleanliness study, and doesn't know that it's actually the smaller particles that can get into the small MOFT between parts that can cause wear. Every factory, facility and heavy duty commercial piece of equipment that uses filtration to keep their machines in good health and from wearing out quicker than not should probably remove all their oil filters too. 😄 Has he's ever found the "Machinery Lubrication" website or an SAE study and read it? :unsure:
 
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What he does not understand is that the clearances inside an engine are what makes oil pressure. The filter being before the bearings means that the pressure will be the same on both sides of the filter unless it's plugged up
 
If this were a PF video, it would already be in quarantine.
This guy is a baffoon; he knows nothing of which he speaks in this regard.
And now he's just doubled down on his stupidity with the second video.

Folks, do NOT use UTG for anything but entertainment; you can laugh at his complete ineptness when it comes to filtration.
 
What he does not understand is that the clearances inside an engine are what makes oil pressure. The filter being before the bearings means that the pressure will be the same on both sides of the filter unless it's plugged up
As mentioned before, there is always a small delta-p across the filter is the engine is running ... even on a brand new filter. The delta-p is a result of: 1) The oil viscosity, 2) The oil flow volume (engine RPM), and 3) The flow resistance of the media which is a function of the media itself (cellulose, blended, full synthetic) and the total flow area of the media.

In general terms, the dP across an oil filter is only about 1/15th the dP across the engine oiling system. Engine oil pressure and dP across the whole engine's oiling system (inlet vs Atm gauge pressure) is mainly due to the journal bearing tight clearances as you mentioned. Example: An engine is showing 75 PSI of oil pressure at 4000 RPM at the oil pressure sensor located before the oiling system, and the dP across the oil filter is 5 PSI. 5 PSI of dP across the filter is 1/15th that of across the engine (5/75 = 1/15).
 
Someone posted this WIX YouTube video link in Uncle Tom's 2nd (failed back peddle) video. Notice that they say the coil spring is just to hold the guts of the filter tight. It's not a magical "Pressure Differential Regulator" spring, lol. Will he make a 3rd video, or will he think WIX is wrong? Sometimes misconceptions are very hard to see past to the reality ... just try to convince a flat earther that the earth is really not flat.😄

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Here's a filter design with an anti-siphon valve in the center tube ... or is it actually "2 bypass valves" and a "Pressure Differential Regulator" spring? :unsure: :p Notice the guts of the filter never moves ... same with the WIX video above.

 
My thoughts on the filter moving back and forth in the oil filter case is that with the pressure needed to compress the spring and force the filter to move internally would after a while cause the case to separate (or leak at the very least) at the end cap, or even cause the case to fail and burst. This type of failure would be more common if this were occurring.

Someone from North Dakota commented about this post, and living north of him in Manitoba oil filters were known to fail in the dead of winter and puke oil due to cold temps and cold starts. This stuff happened back in the 1980's and earlier a fair bit. I think synthetic oil has helped, but extreme cold is still very hard on engines at engine starts. I'm sure a lot of filter media nowadays has failed due to this.
 
My thoughts on the filter moving back and forth in the oil filter case is that with the pressure needed to compress the spring and force the filter to move internally ...
But there is no force imbalance going on inside the filter to make the element assembly move back and forth against the coil or leaf spring. All of the oil on the dirty side volume of the media is essentially at the same pressure, and all the oil on the clean side after it goes through the media and into the center tube is at the same oil pressure. The difference between those two areas is what the bypass valve operates on.

In order for the whole media element to be pushed up against the coil or leaf spring and then move, there would have to be a much larger force on the bottom end cap vs the top (dome) end cap ... but that just doesn't happen. All the oil in the dirty side area between the center tube and can wall is basically at the same oil pressure ... no real force imbalance going on that's going to lift the element assembly up. The last thing the filter designer wants happening is the media assembly moving around, because if the ADBV in not pinched tightly in its postion, it could get pushed through a gap at the base plate and get swept into the engine. That's why the coil or leaf spring in the dome end is pretty stiff, to ensure that the filter guts are held tightly together so they don't move.
 
I'm jumping in this thread late and haven't read every comment nor watched every video that was posted.
I am also not judging whether the guy(UTG) is a buffoon or a genius. And even though I've been a member here at BITOG for some years, I don't know what many of our esteemed members know about oil filtration.

However, when I first joined this forum, IIRC, I did read and article from Bob(BITOG) himself, a test that he ran on his own Mazda Miata without using an oil filter and then did a UOA. I don't remember all of the details in regards of how long the filter was in service, what oil was used etc. And again IIRC, the conclusion was (not that oil filtration isn't important) but that air filtration is more important than oil filtration.

I am not doing a search nor asking anyone do look for the article but, does anyone else remember this article from the past?
 
The oil filters exploding thing may have something to do with the several changes to the W rating that occured between the 70s and late 90s one revision of the J300 Ithe 80s was actually to address a problem created by changes to the W ratings in the previous iteration that caused a spike in engine failures in some of the coldest climates in the northern US. The failures of the oil filters were likely at the base plate seam, which would generally only happen if their was a failure of the oil pump bypass or the oil pump bypass was designed insufficient.
 
But there is no force imbalance going on inside the filter to make the element assembly move back and forth against the coil or leaf spring. All of the oil on the dirty side volume of the media is essentially at the same pressure, and all the oil on the clean side after it goes through the media and into the center tube is at the same oil pressure. The difference between those two areas is what the bypass valve operates on.
Agreed, the pressure isn't great enough. The force that would be needed to move the filter core would cause the case and or seams at the filter end cap to fail after a not too long while. That's my point. The oil filter would burst or leak.
 
The oil filters exploding thing may have something to do with the several changes to the W rating that occured between the 70s and late 90s one revision of the J300 Ithe 80s was actually to address a problem created by changes to the W ratings in the previous iteration that caused a spike in engine failures in some of the coldest climates in the northern US. The failures of the oil filters were likely at the base plate seam, which would generally only happen if their was a failure of the oil pump bypass or the oil pump bypass was designed insufficient.
Part of the issue was conventional oil forming wax at extremely cold temperatures, basically turning to jello/jelly, and the oil pump trying to force it through a filter, IMO the pump bypass probably wasn't big enough to let the super thick oil through, filter gasket blow out or even ballooning/base seam failure was possible. 5W** just wasn't that common, 10W** conventional just gets too thick under arctic conditions.
 
Agreed, the pressure isn't great enough. The force that would be needed to move the filter core would cause the case and or seams at the filter end cap to fail after a not too long while. That's my point. The oil filter would burst or leak.
Just don't want the filter components moving inside the can! There have been a couple anecdotes of OG Ultras being dropped & rattling due to leaf spring failure, and ADBVs then making it into the oil galleries, causing bearing failure. Better to give filters a little shake first, make sure nothing is moving in there...
 
Part of the issue was conventional oil forming wax at extremely cold temperatures, basically turning to jello/jelly, and the oil pump trying to force it through a filter, IMO the pump bypass probably wasn't big enough to let the super thick oil through, filter gasket blow out or even ballooning/base seam failure was possible. 5W** just wasn't that common, 10W** conventional just gets too thick under arctic conditions.
I noticed the Double starr after each W rating, is that an acknowledgement of that until the early 90s the W rating was based off an older version of the CCS and was only tested at 0F, the modern tiered version was first used in the early 90s, then the temperature MRV was tested at was dropped 10C a few years later, and then the temperature CCS was tested at was dropped 5C at the end of the 90s. So if a manual printed in the early to mid 90s says to use 5W-30 what they're asking for would technically be the same as 10W-30 today, and viscosity charts made prior to the early 90s mean just about nothing now.
 
I noticed the Double starr after each W rating, is that an acknowledgement of that until the early 90s the W rating was based off an older version of the CCS and was only tested at 0F, the modern tiered version was first used in the early 90s, then the temperature MRV was tested at was dropped 10C a few years later, and then the temperature CCS was tested at was dropped 5C at the end of the 90s. So if a manual printed in the early to mid 90s says to use 5W-30 what they're asking for would technically be the same as 10W-30 today, and viscosity charts made prior to the early 90s mean just about nothing now.
The "double star" just means insert 2 numbers here. Remember, in the olden days 10W40 and 10W30 were considered "thin", I'm not sure pour point depressants were commonly used back then(?) I just know it's a LOT easier to get things started now than it was in the '70s & '80s when it got below -15F or so!
 
The "double star" just means insert 2 numbers here. Remember, in the olden days 10W40 and 10W30 were considered "thin", I'm not sure pour point depressants were commonly used back then(?) I just know it's a LOT easier to get things started now than it was in the '70s & '80s when it got below -15F or so!
Pourpoint depressants were one of the few things that kept that old oil from gelling so bad but part of the changes to the W ratings throughout the 70s and 80s failed to account for the type of temperature changes that may render pour point depressants ineffective, I think the biggest part of what made modern multigrades from the 90s onward better was that refining technology got significantly better and high quality group II oils started to become more readily available in the late 80s so there was significantly less wax to deal with.
 
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