Toyota truck frame dealer rustproofing

[Oldtom]

I ran into a gentleman with a 2007 Toyota Tacoma. He said the dealer had rustproofed his frame some years ago and he planned to keep the truck forever. I asked if I could look at the frame. The outside of the frame was completely dry and there was a very slight oily residue around the frame holes. I reached into the larger frame holes and felt a SLIGHT oily residue on the inside of the frame. It seemed the rustproofing had mostly evaporated. I told him about Fluid Film and offered to spray his frame if he would buy the material.

Lots of unanswered questions here:

Did the dealer use substandard rust proofer? Or, is the Toyota rust proofer only good for 5 years or so?

Does anyone know what rust proofer Toyota uses? This stuff had the staying power of WD-40.

 

[maxdustington]

You've never encountered a vehicle that has been oil sprayed before? It only lasts like a year or so before it washes off.

 

[SatinSilver]

Yes, it should be sprayed annually. So it is well due for another treatment. Esp since those frames are very rust prone. He should take it back to the dealer for another treatment. It must be good stuff if it's still doing the job after 11 years.

 

[mx5miata]

the local Toyota dealership in my area has stacks of frames been ongoing for a few years now. so I take it they're doing complete frame swaps.

 

[Trav]

No its not standard undercoating, Toyota had the dealers use products from Noxudol to rustproof the frames. Don't waste your time with FF, its life is too short for use under the vehicle especially in the salt belt.
I have used Noxudol a few times and it is very good but messy, it hangs in there for years and specified as in this case by the OE manufacturer.

http://www.noxudolusa.com/

Edit: If the guy doing the application used the crevice protection product under the car it wont last very long. correct application is a must with any of these products for optimal results.

 

[LotI]

Originally Posted By: mx5miata
the local Toyota dealership in my area has stacks of frames been ongoing for a few years now. so I take it they're doing complete frame swaps.

Taco’s and Tundra’s in the rust belt have a recall for frames. A dealer in my area is so good they have two guys swap frames in 6 hours.

 

[Oldtom]

Thanks for all the replies and info. You learn something every day if you are not careful.

 

[Zee09]

Originally Posted By: LotI
Originally Posted By: mx5miata
the local Toyota dealership in my area has stacks of frames been ongoing for a few years now. so I take it they're doing complete frame swaps.

Taco’s and Tundra’s in the rust belt have a recall for frames. A dealer in my area is so good they have two guys swap frames in 6 hours.



Is the issue fixed on current production?

 

[PimTac]

It’s been fixed for some time.

 

[JLTD]

.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: Trav
No its not standard undercoating, Toyota had the dealers use products from Noxudol to rustproof the frames. Don't waste your time with FF, its life is too short for use under the vehicle especially in the salt belt.
I have used Noxudol a few times and it is very good but messy, it hangs in there for years and specified as in this case by the OE manufacturer.

http://www.noxudolusa.com/

Edit: If the guy doing the application used the crevice protection product under the car it wont last very long. correct application is a must with any of these products for optimal results.


I have never heard of this stuff, that I recall, so I am curious how it compares to Krown or Rust Check which are both popular up here.
I believe in annual applications as well but my wife's 2017 Impala is still dripping/leaking in places and Krown was applied last November.
Like I have mentioned numerous times, anything is better than nothing but it all boils down to the applicator and how good of a job he/she does?

One thing my bud and I use to do, right after we sprayed our own vehicles (Trucks) using Rust Check, was to drive down a sandy/dusty road stopping and starting numerous times allowing the dust to swirl underneath it.
It made a mess on the outside paint, but after a day or 2 all easily washed off.
The dust would collect/cling to the Rust Check and make it almost impossible to wash off.

 

[Trav]

Noxudol bitumen and wax based is far superior, I did a ford F150 got be 7 yrs ago and its still hanging in the in the rust belt. I guess that's why Toyota chose it.
I use Corban and a couple of others also, all are a bit pricey but you get what you pay for, you need a good gun and wants for proper application.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Noxudol bitumen and wax based is far superior, I did a ford F150 got be 7 yrs ago and its still hanging in the in the rust belt. I guess that's why Toyota chose it.
I use Corban and a couple of others also, all are a bit pricey but you get what you pay for, you need a good gun and wants for proper application.


It looks more like a coating than an oil, imo, and it looks like a fair bit of work/protection goes into it prior to being applied?
No doubt it likely works but I assume, based on the vid and what you mentioned, it is pricey?

I'll have to see if it's available up here?

 

[Trav]

Spray cans get expensive but its not bad if you buy in ltr containers for the gun. Its about $150 in materials to do a proper job, bigger vehicles need more.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: maxdustington
You've never encountered a vehicle that has been oil sprayed before? It only lasts like a year or so before it washes off.


+1. Fluid film wouldn't last any longer either.

Waxy coatings can, but have other baggage...

 

[supton]

Yeah, after using FF for a few years I'm not impressed with its lasting ability. Washes away too fast in high wash areas. Might be fine inside the frame, but on the outside one might as well run a garden hose instead.

But it is darn cheap though.

 

[andyd]

A wise old Indian told me about using linseed oil in door bottoms and rocker panels. I used it on frame rails. Once it hardens, it creates an airtight seal.Takes a month to harden. Many coats. Waay too labor intensive to be a commercial success. Appears to working, the Rat hasn't completely rusted away

 

[JTK]

Is Fluid Film the same basic stuff as Krown uses? You see so many people swear by Krown is why I ask. To me, Krown looks like it disappears in a few months.

Fella I work with just had his $70K Ford F350 done by Ziebart. For ~$500 they sprayed some black stuff on the frame and some Krown looking stuff everywhere else underneath. Terrible job with lots of missed spots. That $500 includes "free" yearly re-sprays that you must do for "warranty".

My only experience with rust proofing was years ago on my 1998 Chevy K1500. I had a truck accessory shop undercoat and spray inside body panels with some black tar-like stuff which I hear is frowned upon. It was all still there 3yrs later when I sold the truck. If it helped or hindered is anyone's guess.

I don't think there's any magic bullet in terms of rust proofing/undercoating. Way too many variables between the vehicle, how and where it's used, etc. To me, the only answer is re-applications every year or sooner. There's NO WAY every nook and cranny is going to be addressed with one application. Doesn't matter how good you are with the product.

 

[Oldtom]

Fluid Film is a greasy paste that resembles butterscotch pudding in a can. You spray it on once a year with the special spray gun from Kellesport Products. Takes about an hour if you have a strong air compressor. My truck took two hours due to waiting for my ancient air compressor to catch up. Once applied, the film picks up a layer of dust and becomes less sticky. I like it due to being user friendly, quick to apply, and cheap ($45 per gallon at NAPA auto parts )

I have never used any other rust proofer so do not know how they compare. Some folks may not like the greasy coating on the vehicle. Better than rust, in my opinion.