Noxudol - pros and cons?

[mattd]

I think driving a day or two after is fine, but you'd want to avoid driving in the rain for a week or so after your first main application. The 300/700 stays very "wet" for 3-5 days which is not a bad thing as you're going to get very good product creep during this time. Consistency of the 300 when cured is pretty similar to paraffin wax so if you're grabbing onto a suspension component you'd have some residue on your hands. The 700 is similar.

I've applied Rust Check to our Honda chassis, and a week later driven in the rain for a few hours. Checking underneath after the car dries out, it's like the product was never there. Fluid Film and Krown, similar experiences. So my thinking on leaving the vehicle for 5 days to cure is that your investment of a few $100 will stay where you put it long term We tend to keep vehicles a long time...my autocross car (84 Scirocco) was on hand for 25 years, and my 90 Westfalia about 18 years. I sold them for $7K and $27K respectively so my theory on corrosion control is that it does pay off in the end.

I also keep my vehicles long term. I just wanted to if it was as wet as an oil based coating. It’s currently messy working on the truck if I have to (I’ve pressure washed area I’m working and reapply when done because it’s so bad). Believe me, I know the Fluid film and oil coatings wash off quickly. It took driving in the rain one time and the NHOU was completely washed away from the inner rocker panels on the truck, and other areas. It’s frustrating for sure, that’s why I was looking at something more permanent, especially for spray areas.

The longest amount of time id have to let it sit would be about 12 hours before I’d have to drive it after application. It would only be about 4 miles (distance from my shop to my house). I’d have to plan for a weekend or something of no rain. Would that be a problem driving it that soon after application? I’d let it sit as long as possible after that.

 

[denwood]

You'd be fine, particularly if in the city (so not going 70mph). In hot weather it would likely set up faster. It doesn't drip a lot after application unless you go very heavy.

 

[Kurtatron]

Does anyone know the environmental impact of noxudal? I am all for its superior performance to woolwax, BUT I do love woolwax and fluid film because I don’t feel guilty polluting the environment with harmful substances. Lanolin wax is just lamb wax and it is essentially harmless. Noxudal, is it as harmless to be running on the roads?

 

[denwood]

Does anyone know the environmental impact of noxudal? I am all for its superior performance to woolwax, BUT I do love woolwax and fluid film because I don’t feel guilty polluting the environment with harmful substances. Lanolin wax is just lamb wax and it is essentially harmless. Noxudal, is it as harmless to be running on the roads?

I see it this way. FF and the popular franchise rust treatments here in Canada don't work once washed off..and they pretty much fully wash off completely (woolwax not as bad). All of it ends up in our water table. Yes it comes from sheep wool, but sheep wool and concentrated oil from thousands of them likely has some consequences for our water.

Noxudol doesn't wash off, and actively (chemically) fights corrosion. It also prevents the kind of structural rust that will condemn a vehicle, forcing a new one into the market, or rust that requires body work and paint. You are 100% correct that there are chemicals in Noxudol that have a defined impact, and it's paraffin base is based on petroleum.

Now the argument is the benefit of reducing consumption (of vehicles) vs the impact of producing lanolin based products which also have a correlated petroleum "cost" in their manufacturing, shipping etc. Remember that the lanolin products (and the popular Canadian franchise products) require yearly application, and to be effective, more (if you consult the research). Using a product that doesn't need yearly reapplication is not good from the franchise business model. Factor in 10 years of ownership vs 5 litres/year of product..and you've consumed 50 litres of product, vs 7-9 if you use Noxudol.

I drive an EV (but keep a few ICE around for long trips) and live in a heavily automated, energy retrofitted house .. and my undergrad was in biology. We also live literally blocks from work and school for the entire family so we don't drive a lot, and I do keep vehicles for a long time. I'm also lazy..so it's Noxudol that makes more sense. For that matter, any other product that performs similarly, I would use too. If I'm going to take the time to remove underbody trays, fender liners etc., I only want to do this once!

This is some of the stuff I removed form the LEAF (fender liners not shown) which would take a few hours on a hoist. I can guarantee you that zero of the popular franchises do any of this...and I can also guarantee that if you inspect your vehicle after their 30 minute application, you will find many areas that have not been touched. I used Krown and Rust Check for quite a few years then eventually gave up as I got tired of taking vehicles back for reapplication knowing full well they were only going to address bare areas that I pointed out. Once I realised how fast they washed off, I started searching elsewhere for products that work. Having a hoist in my shop factored in too as it's pretty hard to do a good job working off the floor.

 

[mattd]

You'd be fine, particularly if in the city (so not going 70mph). In hot weather it would likely set up faster. It doesn't drip a lot after application unless you go very heavy.

Ordered 4 liters of the 700 for my pickup, what I don’t use I’ll save for touch ups or use on my travel trailer. I’ll have to wait for the 300 to come back in stock and I’ll order 4 liters of that too. Thanks for your insight.

One last question, what did you use for application air pressures for each product?

 

[denwood]

Ordered 4 liters of the 700 for my pickup, what I don’t use I’ll save for touch ups or use on my travel trailer. I’ll have to wait for the 300 to come back in stock and I’ll order 4 liters of that too. Thanks for your insight.

One last question, what did you use for application air pressures for each product?

Matt, I generally use 60 PSI at the regulator or so for the 300 with the Protek gun (small tip) and up it 10 psi or so (check your gun and cup and don't exceed the max!!) for the 700 with the cavity tools. Warming the product helps too.

Although I think this is unreasonable for most, the best scenario is to do the body cavites, inner frame rails, suspension channels etc. with 700, then wait a week (or more) and do the 300 over the exposed chassis undercarriage. This gives you the benefits of that high creep rate on the 700, but then the protection of the 300 after. So don't sweat the 300 coming late..it's actually better in the long run

You'll use more 300 than 700, so order 6-7 litres of the 300 for your truck. That should leave one left over to do touch ups later.

The short little tip is my goto for 300...it goes on nicely with minimal overspray.

 

[Trav]

I agree with you. My only issue is my vehicle can’t sit for 5 days without use. I suppose that’s my dilemma.

When you say “firm wax”, like, dry candle wax? Or softer?

I use the CRC marine corrosion inhibitor in my snowblower and it seems to hold up well.

Softer than candle wax, almost like the wax used in toilet bowl rings but not quite as tacky.

 

[denwood]

Softer than candle wax, almost like the wax used in toilet bowl rings but not quite as tacky.

That's an excellent description Trav.

Matt had asked a few good questions about electrical connections, rubber bits etc. with respect to the Noxudol. My comments specifically address the 300, and 700 as these are the only two products I use. One of the issues with Fluid Film/Wool Wax is that they can cause swelling/damage to door seals etc. Not sure if they soften rubber suspension components, but I'd guess this would just be surface damage if an issue.

The Noxudol 300/700 products have no caveats with regard to plastic, wire harnesses, brake hoses, rubber etc. In fact, our LEAF has a 400 V battery pack and pretty elaborate harness running under the car and I specifically sprayed these items to protect them from moisture. The one area I did avoid is the large 400 volt harness connector specifically that connects to the battery pack under the vehicle. These connectors are very well sealed for obvious reasons but 400 volts can kill you in a hurry. I'm not too concerned on aesthetics so have used Noxudol 700 in the engine bays liberally, including over all electronics components in our 2014 Highlander, and 2018 LEAF EV including 12V battery terminals. The aluminum casing over the LEAF inverter/motor/reduction gear assembly in the LEAF is vulnerable to corrosion in our salt environment, so it got the 700 treatment too. The Toyota has been treated for about 4 years now with zero issues, the LEAF just a year now.

The only other areas I avoided were:

1. Brake rotors. I wrapped them in black shrink plastic used to wrap pallets...perfect for this application.
2. Exhaust components (no point, and it would just melt/smoke anyway)
3. Serpentile belt (the EV has none of that crap) and alternator.

Hope that addresses questions on the rubber/door seal/electrical side of things.

I have not heard back from the Noxudol USA folks with regard to the solvent based 750/900 products. Disappointing, but not surprising these days.

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[denwood]

I did hear back finally from Auson.se on the difference between Noxudol 300 and 300s

The answer is a bit confusing, but here you go:

Noxudol 300 and 300S is the same product when delivered in 1 Liter cans but for some reason its called 300S when delivered to the US, but it can still be that it has been sold also as Noxudol 300 in the US, they are made for consumer use and as you write below they have a slightly shorter “curing” time and they don’t need to be heated up to be applied.

Normal Noxudol 300 when delivered in drums and 20 L cans needs to be heated up to ca 35 degrees Celsius to be able to be sprayed nicely.

So my guess is that 300s is the higher solids/faster cure version that went to dealers for rust treatment as their recall kits all specified 1 litre cans. If you look at that email, it suggests that any 300 variant in a 1 litre can is the same product..