Here is why I oil spray my truck myself....

Box frames may be stronger but they rust out from the inside and there's no way to access everything inside. I like the old style "C" shaped frames myself.
 
Krown and Fluid Film work well and are certainly better than nothing....But I've become a big fan of Noxudol. It is a wax that tends to stay fluid and really creeps into the nooks and crannies. It has various rust preventative and converting chemicals in its makeup so it will attack and neutralize rust after contact.

The Noxudol 700 is a Cavity wax that is more liquid-y and flows into tight spaces. Best for inside door frames, fender wells, rocker panels, inside frames, etc. The Noxudol 300 is a thicker formula best for undercoating the vehicle and is strong enough to hold on for a while.
 
Anything is good if its applied well

Krown is the best place by me(45min drive) so its krown.
 
Residue is still left behind, even if there's a drain. It needs to be actively flushed out.
Never enough and often in the wrong spots.
It’s good they have the drainage, and the rust problems sound similar to unibody rockers. These too, despite drainage, rust from inside out.

But if you have drainage holes, the inside can be very easily rustproofed.
 
I know I miss all sorts of spots when I treat my own vehicle's with fluid film and/or woolwax. This is where repeat applications show their value. Areas that need to be touched up become more apparent.

It's also best to apply product when it's still relatively hot and dry out. Not only will it creep better, it sets up much better.
 
I don't like Krown- too low viscosity and really screws with rubber- drove my Honda off the lot to a Krown dealer and they were more insterested with applying it where I could see it (all over engine and bay) instead of where it counts. I use No Drip made by Rust Check which flashes off to a gell. Boxed frames are no problem with the right tools. My 1990 Toy still looks new underneath. I don't have a hoist and only do my own and friends vehicles, it's a nasty job- considering the cost of new I simply don't understand why more people don't sue corrosion inhibiters of some type seeing all the rusty boxes in this area.
 
I know I miss all sorts of spots when I treat my own vehicle's with fluid film and/or woolwax. This is where repeat applications show their value. Areas that need to be touched up become more apparent.

It's also best to apply product when it's still relatively hot and dry out. Not only will it creep better, it sets up much better.
Repeat applications had been the most helpful for me I think. Once you come back to it a few days or a week later it's easy to spot where you missed and apply more.
 
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I don't like Krown- too low viscosity and really screws with rubber- drove my Honda off the lot to a Krown dealer and they were more insterested with applying it where I could see it (all over engine and bay) instead of where it counts. I use No Drip made by Rust Check which flashes off to a gell. Boxed frames are no problem with the right tools. My 1990 Toy still looks new underneath. I don't have a hoist and only do my own and friends vehicles, it's a nasty job- considering the cost of new I simply don't understand why more people don't sue corrosion inhibiters of some type seeing all the rusty boxes in this area.
The rubber is worth mentioning...my mom's 2019 Ford Edge has rubber weatherstripping that's all wavey....it was pointed out by her new undercoating guy who used fluid film.

I now use surface shield which is similar to fluid film but I also used a rust check inner panel protectant product to spray on the inside areas that don't get washed off. It looked like transmission fluid.
 
The rubber is worth mentioning...my mom's 2019 Ford Edge has rubber weatherstripping that's all wavey....it was pointed out by her new undercoating guy who used fluid film.

I now use surface shield which is similar to fluid film but I also used a rust check inner panel protectant product to spray on the inside areas that don't get washed off. It looked like transmission fluid.
Rust Check has a red can and a green can- for touch ups I like the green- heavier coat.
 
Having spent most of my life in the desert, doing something like this felt almost counterintuitive. Even so, I needed to honor my OCD tendencies, and surprisingly, I’m okay with it.
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Rust Check has a red can and a green can- for touch ups I like the green- heavier coat.
Yeah I have used the green can and it seems similar to fluid film. Unfortunately the last can I bought (first one in years) plugged up before I used half. I ended up cutting it open and making a real mess in order to not waste it.
 
Having spent most of my life in the desert, doing something like this felt almost counterintuitive. Even so, I needed to honor my OCD tendencies, and surprisingly, I’m okay with it.
You sir have my utmost in hatred. To you ____ (insert something very bad) and your rustfree enviroment!

Ok, I'm jealous, and in another life, I'd rather live there. Oh to live multiple times and all that. If only we could try all the forks in the road.
 
You sir have my utmost in hatred. To you ____ (insert something very bad) and your rustfree enviroment!

Ok, I'm jealous, and in another life, I'd rather live there. Oh to live multiple times and all that. If only we could try all the forks in the road.
I know a guy in South Carolina who still daily drives the 77 Impala his dad bought new. No real rust, just faded paint and patina. And it's on its 3rd or 4th interior. 350k miles, original 305 but transmission has been replaced. He's much older than me so the car will possibly outlive him.
 
No one does a better job but yourself. Noxudol 300 on the outside, 700 on the inside. Boxed frame also.

This was about 2 years ago, a bit more. Pretty much all of the product is still there with little to no touch ups. It’s collected dirt and sand over time but all still there.

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I wool waxed 4 out of 5 vehicles in my driveway making sure I got the inside of cavities. I decided to take my Pacifica Hybrid to Ziebart because I didn’t feel like spraying it.

Ziebart barely sprayed under it. They essentially stood at the rear end and sprayed what they could see - missing the front facing areas of the rear sub frame. Lots of exposed floor pans and all due to the aero covers they didn’t remove. I brought it back for respray and mentioned the parts that didn’t get touched. Manager said no problem. I get it back - again not sprayed. Thought they were playing games. They end up letting me go in the back with the tech and point exactly where to spray. Turns out the type of ramp lift they use makes it impossible to see like most of the under carriage unless they pull the underbody panels which they don’t despite advertised. We end up pulling panels and they sprayed for me.

Who knows how many other folks didn’t get full spray coverage. I mean I worked on a Toyota Camry not too long ago with Ziebart application underneath. The spray coverage looked very patchy. Again almost like the tech just stood at the back end and sprayed what they could see then sent it out the door. For $500 otd I expect better work tbh.
 
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