Simplifying my oil changing routine

I have a Fumoto valve on my 20’ Equinox, I have a bad back so just reaching in was easy. Now after shoulder surgery and bad hand I use a mighty vac imitation. For ****s and giggle I vacuumed out the oil and did the Fumoto valve to see if any oil was left….maybe 1/3 cup came out. I just wish the filter was on top like Subaru, I change that 2-3 oil changes.
 
Well, thanks for the input, guys. I am going to do 2 changes, annually, so changing the weight really is not a problem. And like others have said, the oil does have a tendency to cool somewhat between engine on-off. My point really was to do it systematically rather than some arbitrary mileage. And if I am going to do that, well then I may as well use the weight that is best for that particular season. What's the expression: "Good enough is the enemy.......
For many parts of the country, and especially southern California, a 5W-30 is an ideal oil. The concept of changing weights with the seasons disappeared when oils got to be very good. Stick with a high quality 5W-30 oil and, as is often said on BITOG, sleep well. Example: M1 EP 5W-30 , M1 ESP, are more than "good enough."
 
I am 71 and my days of bench pressing TH400 trans into Fire chickens are over. I use a MityVac for top side oil changes at 5K OCI.
I swap the filter every 2nd or even 3rd service.

As far as oil goes, 0w20 or 5w30 should be fine. Perhaps you have a friend or neighbor who can help with services? My neighbors know I am happy to lend a hand; it's only right.
Sounds like we in similar/close situations / aged (69) next month. Plus-been handicapped/very limited physically for many years.
Ha ha ha - You bench pressing TH400 trans into Fire chickens are over - LoL! I get it. One of mine used to be removing total exhaust systems and then installing headers and pipes out the back for guys in the back yard - jacking cars up in the most dangerous ways (I am lucky to be alive-an ashamed of the chances we used to take!)

I started using those MityVac years ago on the job. Back then we were given some of them to replace gear box oil on machines the engineers did not want us to shut down or open up unless repairs were needed. Found they worked so well I ordered one right away for home use from Grainger. Back then you could not find them just anyplace like one can these days.

At the time I was the youngest guy still in good shape on my street. So, I was always at one of the older guys houses doing many little repair jobs they could no longer do themselves. Tune ups to tire rotations , plumbing and boat/lawn equipment repairs etc... Only asked they purchase the parts for me to use. They all quickly became fans of the MityVacs when they saw how good and quick oil / fluid changes could be done. We eventually started to use them for trans flushes to brake jobs (bleeding) too.

Well..... all but me and one of those guys remain... Others have crossed over to the other side RIP.
Both of us are in no shape to do all that stuff any longer so I get my son or my nephew to come and do for us all those jobs I once did up and down the street. Time marches (speeds if u aks me) on...............
 
As a serious point made humorously, I'd like to suggest that the name of the very useful and highly regarded "Mightyvac", be changed to, "Mightyvac-if the suction tube reaches the bottom of the pan of your engine".
The tube I tried didn't.
 
As a serious point made humorously, I'd like to suggest that the name of the very useful and highly regarded "Mightyvac", be changed to, "Mightyvac-if the suction tube reaches the bottom of the pan of your engine".
The tube I tried didn't.
Some cars are definitely problematic for the mityvac. I planned to use it on the neighbor's Trans Am but quickly found that the dipstick was about 25 feet long (slight exaggeration, but you get the point)!
 
But, but, but the whole point of twice annual changes at set points was so I could use the ideal oil. While 10W or even 5W oil would be ok, without a doubt, Ford wants 0W-20, for a reason not necessarily simply for CARB/EPA. There are times when I actually start the car and its 30°, gasp! A 10W would cause an instant smog alert and CA would have me in irons.
 
The idea of a mityvac is certainly an option, leaving only the oil filter. I just have a lifelong aversion to even the idea of leaving an oil filter on through an oil change. However the idea was posted that a filter relocation would be a good idea, so voila on eBay there is one for about $120 or so that looks tempting. Has anyone used one of these or similar? I have to hobble out to look in my engine compartment to see if there is room, definitely would have to have it vertically mounted. One year of changes with this sort of setup would pay for the Valvoline price. (Which is certainly going to increase)
 
I'm getting old, and no longer able to crawl under my car to change oil. So I've decided to rethink my maintenance routine. My plan is to change oil based on season, rather than mileage/time.
I have a new(ish) Ford hybrid, and as far as I can find the 2.5 engine is not GDI. I live in a hot, arid part of CA where cold is 35°F, but hot is 115 at times. My truck is 14 months old, with 10k miles on it, and has had 2 oil changes, with Costco/Supertech 0W-20. I'm not comfortable using that oil in the extreme temperature months, so I plan to change oil twice annually, with one from Nov. through March, 5 months, using 0W20. Then 10W-30 the remaining 7 hot(ter) mos. I talked to the local Valvoline oil version of Quik-Lube, and they charge $45 labor if I provide oil and filter. Also check under for any obvious problems. My thought is to use Mobil-1 EP 5W-20 for the winter run then 10W-30 for the summer. HPL was on my mind but the price puts it a little out of the budget, esp. with shipping.
A couple questions: would ESP be more suitable, although to me it looks like the main advantage is lower SAPS. Mobil is always available at my local Walmart, so most any of the other brands for this particular scenario would probably be fine. Not trying to overthink this, I could probably go with a cheaper oil but a $10 difference twice a year is not a problem.
Anybody???
$45 is a bit high if you bring your own oil and filter.
A discount tire place near my home will only charge me $16 + labor if I bring my own oil and filter.
My local mechanic quoted me $25 labor if I brough my own oil and filter.

The advantage of using Costco/SuperTech oil is that when you hand that oil to the oil change person, there is less chance of them
taking your oil for themselves and substituting bulk oil (if you don't have the visual angle to see them adding the oil during the oil change), as Costco/SuperTech oil an underestimated quality oil.
 
$45 is a bit high if you bring your own oil and filter.
A discount tire place near my home will only charge me $16 + labor if I bring my own oil and filter.
My local mechanic quoted me $25 labor if I brough my own oil and filter.

The advantage of using Costco/SuperTech oil is that when you hand that oil to the oil change person, there is less chance of them
taking your oil for themselves and substituting bulk oil (if you don't have the visual angle to see them adding the oil during the oil change), as Costco/SuperTech oil an underestimated quality oil.
Is this where we are, where you can’t take your own oil and filter to a service provider, without the fear that some animal will switch it out on you? Is this a real thing, or a fringe, rare, almost unheard of occurrence?
 
Is this where we are, where you can’t take your own oil and filter to a service provider, without the fear that some animal will switch it out on you? Is this a real thing, or a fringe, rare, almost unheard of occurrence?
I always try to verify it by watching them pour the new oil from my container into the engine (to remove all doubt).
The temptation would increase I would expect if you gave them some expensive fancy oil like Amsoil.

But with Super Tech, I never worry. Super Tech is a great oil, very underestimated in my opinion. But Super Tech would be less of a temptation for them to take and to add the bulk oil instead to your engine.

I started changing my own oil a while back, so I never have to worry.
 
Regarding the oil switcheroo, at Valvoline, like most other similar outfits I think, the driver remains in the car and is clearly able to see the fill operation. I suppose they could empty out the jug of good oil into another and put the house brand in it, but that seems very far out. This outfit has a pit, rather than a lift.
 
I always try to verify it by watching them pour the new oil from my container into the engine (to remove all doubt).
The temptation would increase I would expect if you gave them some expensive fancy oil like Amsoil.

But with Super Tech, I never worry. Super Tech is a great oil, very underestimated in my opinion. But Super Tech would be less of a temptation for them to take and to add the bulk oil instead to your engine.

I started changing my own oil a while back, so I never have to worry.
Lots of folks suggest Supertech et al. And I agree I consider that a decent alternative. But the difference in cost is not really great, all things considered.
 
$45 is a bit high if you bring your own oil and filter.
A discount tire place near my home will only charge me $16 + labor if I bring my own oil and filter.
My local mechanic quoted me $25 labor if I brough my own oil and filter.

The advantage of using Costco/SuperTech oil is that when you hand that oil to the oil change person, there is less chance of them
taking your oil for themselves and substituting bulk oil (if you don't have the visual angle to see them adding the oil during the oil change), as Costco/SuperTech oil an underestimated quality oil.
quote "will only charge me $16 + labor" Would you think that labor could easily be $30? How many of us here would do it for $30?
 
As a serious point made humorously, I'd like to suggest that the name of the very useful and highly regarded "Mightyvac", be changed to, "Mightyvac-if the suction tube reaches the bottom of the pan of your engine".
The tube I tried didn't.
Maybe-Vac!
They can be tough to install. I have had a few engines they were a bit tough to get in. Some call for being twised and pushed kind of easy to get all the way down. I have never been defeated by one. I sometimes pushed them in too far and they curved up until I realized what I was doing. I love the fact one does not have to fight around with the plugs. The use all came about from being a crooked/half crippled old man who can not stoop or bend as easily and can NOT crawl under vehicles any longer. ;)
 
The idea of a mityvac is certainly an option, leaving only the oil filter. I just have a lifelong aversion to even the idea of leaving an oil filter on through an oil change. However the idea was posted that a filter relocation would be a good idea, so voila on eBay there is one for about $120 or so that looks tempting. Has anyone used one of these or similar? I have to hobble out to look in my engine compartment to see if there is room, definitely would have to have it vertically mounted. One year of changes with this sort of setup would pay for the Valvoline price. (Which is certainly going to increase)
Yeah. A buddy of mine used a kit to relocate the filter on one of his Ford F150 5.0 engines. It came out very nice. I keep "planning" yet never get around to doing it to the wife's car. Like a lot of other things I dont get around to doing! :rolleyes:
 
$45 is a bit high if you bring your own oil and filter.
A discount tire place near my home will only charge me $16 + labor if I bring my own oil and filter.
My local mechanic quoted me $25 labor if I brough my own oil and filter.

The advantage of using Costco/SuperTech oil is that when you hand that oil to the oil change person, there is less chance of them
taking your oil for themselves and substituting bulk oil
(if you don't have the visual angle to see them adding the oil during the oil change), as Costco/SuperTech oil an underestimated quality oil.
What kind of sleazeball places do you frequent that you'd even have to consider this a possibility?
 
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