To all you Xw-20 doubters out there…

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I run Fram Ultra Synthetic high capacity filters designed to have enough room inside the filter to hold particles for 20,000 mile oil changes.
My oil change interval is only 4,000 miles.
So I doubt one of my filters would ever go into bypass. The synthetic media provides high flow + high filtration, so you get the best of both worlds.
Having the cleanest possible oil is always best for the engine.

If you are using garbage filters with low efficiency, imagine all those extra particles in your oil that can potentially wear down the bearings when the oil with those extra particles is getting in between your moving parts. This is exaserbated if you are using a 20 weight or thinner oil, where film thickness is less, and particles in the oil in between bearing metal surfaces during high RPM situations can really cause wear.

Jim Allen’s post #7 seems more accurate to me regarding the filter bypass.
 
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Since dirt is responsible for 45.4% of premature bearing failure - That would make a case for using highest efficiency filtration for air filter and oil filter, right?
I think that dirt in an engine will cause premature wear, yes, but I also don’t think that a normal operating engine is going to have much dirt/silicone in it, unless you have your air snorkel improperly installed...or an air hose to the manifold is disconnected. Something like that. Which yeah, can happen, absolutely. I’m not saying, go out and buy the cheapest oil/air filters (I use OE or Fram Ultra)...it’s only a couple dollars more in most instances, but depending on your interval and actual driving conditions, I’m not sure over the life of a vehicle how much actual wear is occurring/not occurring due to a high quality filter vs a normal quality filter.

I keep seeing these various Mobil1 tests with engines being torn down with 100’s of thousands of miles, with virtually zero wear. Yet you look at those piston rings, even in controlled testing, and they look like they could be on the verge of sticking. In my opinion, I’m more concerned with that. Because I’ve seen more than a few engines fail because of oil consumption; yet those bearings, cam lobes, and crank journals, look brand new.

I want to see oil improve in that catergory/department, and with the new certifications, it looks like they’re trying. 0W20 or not. IMO.
 
I think that dirt in an engine will cause premature wear, yes, but I also don’t think that a normal operating engine is going to have much dirt/silicone in it, unless you have your air snorkel improperly installed...or an air hose to the manifold is disconnected. Something like that. Which yeah, can happen, absolutely. I’m not saying, go out and buy the cheapest oil/air filters (I use OE or Fram Ultra)...it’s only a couple dollars more in most instances, but depending on your interval and actual driving conditions, I’m not sure over the life of a vehicle how much actual wear is occurring/not occurring due to a high quality filter vs a normal quality filter.

I keep seeing these various Mobil1 tests with engines being torn down with 100’s of thousands of miles, with virtually zero wear. Yet you look at those piston rings, even in controlled testing, and they look like they could be on the verge of sticking. In my opinion, I’m more concerned with that. Because I’ve seen more than a few engines fail because of oil consumption; yet those bearings, cam lobes, and crank journals, look brand new.

I want to see oil improve in that catergory/department, and with the new certifications, it looks like they’re trying. 0W20 or not. IMO.
Or the guy “in the know” uses a full flow air filter. (like K&N) Suggest removing MAF and see if intake is spotless. (MAF cleaner?)
 
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Or the guy “in the know” uses a full flow air filter. (like K&N)


There have been a number of instances and threads here showing that those kinds of air filters actually let in more particles. The UOAs showed higher silicon levels and were reduced when the member returned the stock air filter system back onto the engine. So it’s not a clear advantage except for supposedly more air flow.
 
I knew someone with an old Vega with the junk four-cylinder, his car had over 300.000 miles and he only used straight 30-weight conventional oil.
He claimed it never had any problems. it was like seeing a unicorn.
 
There have been a number of instances and threads here showing that those kinds of air filters actually let in more particles. The UOAs showed higher silicon levels and were reduced when the member returned the stock air filter system back onto the engine. So it’s not a clear advantage except for supposedly more air flow.
I think he was being sarcastic.
 
There have been a number of instances and threads here showing that those kinds of air filters actually let in more particles. The UOAs showed higher silicon levels and were reduced when the member returned the stock air filter system back onto the engine. So it’s not a clear advantage except for supposedly more air flow.
K&N improved filter flow only shows effect at WOT.
 
Sure.... just mailed it last week. First time using this lab. Not sure if they will email or send USPS. I am eagerly waiting. Will post it.

Lets see your UOA
Latest 3500mi run with Castrol Edge (black bottle) in 2018 GDI-T engine. Not too surprised by anything here.
Planning to do the next on current run of Mobil1 Advanced 0w30 that is in the car now. Currious of next fuel#.
DEC202-HONDA-ACCORD-1.5GDIT-CASTROL0W20EDGE2018.jpg
 
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Fuel dilution is getting high for such a low milage. Not oil fault, another reason to change oil sooner in some of the GDI engines. I got same issue with fuel dilution in 2.0t Honda engine.
Yeah. The first sample I sent in was to Blackstone Labs and they had oil listed at 1/2 this level. This one says it was run with GC meter so I tend to believe this one. I been forced to keep a close eye on that car and that sample was also the result of a cold spell of 8-10 days we had. As soon as it got colder , the following week I could see a change on the stick. Hot weather there seems to be almost un-noticable fuel. Its there I'm sure just not as bad.
 
Yeah. The first sample I sent in was to Blackstone Labs and they had oil listed at 1/2 this level. This one says it was run with GC meter so I tend to believe this one. I been forced to keep a close eye on that car and that sample was also the result of a cold spell of 8-10 days we had. As soon as it got colder , the following week I could see a change on the stick. Hot weather there seems to be almost un-noticable fuel. Its there I'm sure just not as bad.
Meant to say the fuel level was 1/2 last time. Sorry but I am sure I put this in the wrong place. Could not seem to find a current UOA place.
 
Only had 1 car go the distance on a 20 grade oil, that was a 2017 Crosstrek with a CVT. And it wasnt happy on it making all kinds of racket when hot. That distance was 90K miles without burning oil or loss of gas mileage. Then it was traded.

Nothing else made it without excessive oil usage or significant loss of power and fuel mileage.

I think my 2011 Honda Fit sport would have made it, but it was killed by LiquiMoly Oil Additiv and possibly an over enthusiastic driver.
Can you elaborate about the LiquiMoly additive? Which one and what was the result?
 
I knew someone with an old Vega with the junk four-cylinder, his car had over 300.000 miles and he only used straight 30-weight conventional oil.
He claimed it never had any problems. it was like seeing a unicorn.
There is no downside to a monograde oil except cold weather performance. If you’re in a relatively warm area they can be a good choice.
 
A perfect practical example of how well sae20 oils can work and protect engines. Especially with Japanese engines, there are several examples of high engine performance. Most negative statements arise only is the minds of people, the practice is not necessarily always the case.
 
Yes for most engines an oil with an HT/HS of 2.6 is adequate to prevent excessive wear under most circumstances. That's what it is now and has been for a long time as evidenced by the back-specifying a 20-grade oil in older engines.
 
So you should never make the mistake of making sae20 oils bad or saying about the ever-increasing wear. I think the future will provide further evidence by seeing high mileage.
 
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