S/C Tundra
- Thread starter rberndt
- Start date
JHZR2
Staff member
What does a UOA tell you?
Some may argue that a 0w-20 in a SC e fine in TX heat may be a bit thin. But the data tells the story, even if not trended data.
Some may argue that a 0w-20 in a SC e fine in TX heat may be a bit thin. But the data tells the story, even if not trended data.
Increased pressures from a supercharger on the bearings, and 0W20? Kinda looks like a recipe for disaster as miles rack up, especially considering the climate too... Do a UOA and go from there, or do the smart thing and switch to Mobil1 0W40. Assuming you're keeping this truck for the long haul.
I run 0W-40 in anything not under warranty, if your supercharger is not factory (or factory installed), that is what I would run...otherwise, stick with what is suggested to keep your warranty.
What are the recommendations for Supercharged applications? I believe OP has Harrop Supercharger on his 3UR-FE. According to Harrop:
- Stage 1 @ 6.5 psi – 478hp / 463 ft-lbs (+160hp / +88 ft-lbs overstock)
- Stage 2 @ 8.5 psi – 513hp / 514ft-lbs (+207hp / +136 ft-lbs overstock)
- Capable of over 1000hp+ with supporting engine modifications
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I've been running Mobil 1 or Valvoline Synthetic 5W30 in my TRD Supercharged 2012 Tundra with the 5.7L engine
I did not see the OP's mention of supercharger in the original post until you mentioned it. I have no idea how that affects the oil application.
I could see stepping up to a 0W30, being in TX. That's about as far as you should have to go. As I don't have near the knowledge of some of the geniuses on the board, I'll let them recommend possibilities and may be suitable.
That being said, depending on how you drive the truck, a solid and proven 0W20 will likely be fine. Toyota V8's are notoriously well screwed together and as such rarely have issues with taking 2x the abuse they should, all the while receiving 1/2 the maintenance. Honestly, even under a full 6.5 PSI of boost I doubt the engine is breaking a sweat as long as it's tuned properly and supporting mods have been performed.
That being said, depending on how you drive the truck, a solid and proven 0W20 will likely be fine. Toyota V8's are notoriously well screwed together and as such rarely have issues with taking 2x the abuse they should, all the while receiving 1/2 the maintenance. Honestly, even under a full 6.5 PSI of boost I doubt the engine is breaking a sweat as long as it's tuned properly and supporting mods have been performed.
If it were my equipment I would feel a lot better moving up a grade : 5w30.
I used -W30 in my vehicles that has SCs on it and no issues
I'd probably step up to at least a decent 5W30 or 10W30.
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Have you contacted the company to see if they recommend something heavier than the OE Toyota spec?
I have been running 5w-30 synthetic in my 2011 Tundra with the 5.7L (non boosted) with zero issues. My current fill is 8 quarts of M1 EP in 5w-30.
In other countries that have vehicles with the 3UR-FE engine (Lexus LX570 and Land Cruiser 200) you can run anything from 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30, and 10w-30.
I'd certainly be running a 5w-30 or 10w-30 in a boosted 5.7L Tundra.
In other countries that have vehicles with the 3UR-FE engine (Lexus LX570 and Land Cruiser 200) you can run anything from 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30, and 10w-30.
I'd certainly be running a 5w-30 or 10w-30 in a boosted 5.7L Tundra.
I'll do a oil sample next change. ~Jan-22
I'll bet the oil is fine & no increased wear metals.
This thing still gets 20mpg cruising on the highway - not so much if you use the pedal on the right.
Since Costco now carries 5w-30, I may give it a go next year.
I'll bet the oil is fine & no increased wear metals.
This thing still gets 20mpg cruising on the highway - not so much if you use the pedal on the right.
Since Costco now carries 5w-30, I may give it a go next year.
changed oil before adding Harrop S/C.
tuner did ~18 dyno runs tuning it for stage 1 and then stage 2.
I drove it for another ~3000 miles after the tuning.
not bad.
I'm sure there are better oils, but at $2.6/qt & i change it every 5k.....this'll do.
tuner did ~18 dyno runs tuning it for stage 1 and then stage 2.
I drove it for another ~3000 miles after the tuning.
not bad.
I'm sure there are better oils, but at $2.6/qt & i change it every 5k.....this'll do.
Looks pretty good, but I would still monitor it occasionally, in case those wear numbers decide to take-off by the time you reach 50k-70k on the motor.
Still seems like a game of Russian Roulette to me...
I'd be more tempted to go with Mobil1 0W40 or Castrol Edge 0W40 and skip the UOAs, as these are just more stout oils and if there is ever an issue - it definitely won't be due to inferior oil. Just my couple pennies... Not every oil can pass the tests that Porsche A40 and MB 229.5 demand. Yet M1 0W40 and Edge 0W40 can. I think they are better options for long term use in your application. I predict the Kirkland 0W20 UOAs get progressively worse rather quickly. Hope I'm wrong though, if you keep on using it.
EDIT: Just remembered that some 3UR engines do have timing chain issues, in stock applications. So that's worth considering with the oil choice in the modified application. Kirkland 5w30 is Dexos approved, so could help a little... But on other hand - doesn't seem to help that much with GM 3.6L and 2.4L timing chain components failing left and right... Just a few things to consider for long term reliability. I vote for Euro-rated 0W40/5W40.
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