When to change engine oil in 2023 Tundra

I typically say that I change my oil between 3K-6K miles depending on the situation. But that doesn't mean that I won't put on 7K-8K miles, depending on the oil used and how the miles were accumulated. ☝️

Occasionally I may perform an early OCI just out of convenience even if I haven't put on a lot of miles e.g., maybe winter is coming!
Or maybe I will be going on a long trip/vacation where the overall miles will exceed my normal OCI. So again, I'll change the oil & filter early so I don't have to concern myself while I'm on the road with..."OMG, I need to change my oil!" o_O

So to say the least, I change the oil & filter as needed per the situation. But I do it regularly.
 
I’ve avoided giving Tundra advice since the twin turbo six is so different than the V-8 in my truck.

All I will say is - nice truck!
 
I can vouch for that statement right there. I was a Toyota tech. You will have an oil burner at 100,000 doing 10,000 mile oil changes.
Or, I can vouch for my old 1NZ-FE not being nowhere near "an oil burner" at well over 300,000 miles doing an average of about 10,000 mile OCIs.
 
When we picked up my wife's new rav4 they told us factory oci is 16,000km (10,000 miles)
We are cutting that in half and doing it at 8,000km

Oil is cheap, especially if you use an evacuator. The filter can easily last 10k miles. You can suck the oil out via the dip stick and refill in 15 min. This is what I do. Like $40 in oil cost. Oil every 5k filter every 10k.
 

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Oil is cheap, especially if you use an evacuator. The filter can easily last 10k miles. You can suck the oil out via the dip stick and refill in 15 min. This is what I do. Like $40 in oil cost. Oil every 5k filter every 10k.
Here is a rav4 filter. It makes me laugh how tiny it is.
It may very well be good for 10k mikes, but i'm still changing it at 5k.
 

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Here is a rav4 filter. It makes me laugh how tiny it is.
It may very well be good for 10k mikes, but i'm still changing it at 5k.
How much stuff is the filter trapping? Even on my old 1NZ-FE when I’ve cut open the tiny filter (same one as on my standby generator) there’s nothing to see in the pleats.
 
Dealership is not obligated to use Toyota oil as long as they use an oil meeting the spec the engine calls for. Most buy in drums of other oils for less than the Toyota oil.
If you look at past Toyota TSB 'Genuine Toyota Oil" will just be current ILSAC and API spec.

I would have 10W30 synthetic quaker state in there in a heartbeat.

tsb_p1.JPG
 
How much stuff is the filter trapping? Even on my old 1NZ-FE when I’ve cut open the tiny filter (same one as on my standby generator) there’s nothing to see in the pleats.

At the risk of sounding stupid, how to these toyota denso filters work? It appears the pleat fan-folds are open at each end and that there is a path in, down and right out to the center core.

toyota denso 2.jpg
 
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At the risk of sounding stupid, how to these toyota denso filters work? It appears the pleat fan-folds are open at each end and that there is a path down and right out to the center core.

View attachment 191039
The ends of the pleats are glued. I always wondered about that too.

The oil enters the filter through the holes on the outside then passes through the filter media and exits through the hole in the center. Everything is sealed so the oil only has one way to enter and one way to exit.
 
In Idaho? In the winter??

No. Not great advice. I mean it would work OK summer months........but what are you really saying this will do for his V8?

Oh, sorry I meant AMSOIL ATM - what was I thinking 😅

Heavy towing with a small block v8. Requires higher HTHS. 5W are VM laden.

10W30 are good to well below zero F - and a true synthetic moreso.

The Quaker State PDS rates the PP of this ILSAC 10W30 FS at -54°C and CCS at 4130 cP @ -25°C

If he finds it suboptimal tooling around town after the stressful trip he can dump it.
Should be fine.
 
Oh, sorry I meant AMSOIL ATM - what was I thinking 😅

Heavy towing with a small block v8. Requires higher HTHS. 5W are VM laden.

10W30 are good to well below zero F - and a true synthetic moreso.

The Quaker State PDS rates the PP of this ILSAC 10W30 FS at -54°C and CCS at 4130 cP @ -25°C

If he finds it suboptimal tooling around town after the stressful trip he can dump it.
Should be fine.
Where are warranty groupies when you need them?? 🤪 🎯
 
The ends of the pleats are glued. I always wondered about that too.

The oil enters the filter through the holes on the outside then passes through the filter media and exits through the hole in the center. Everything is sealed so the oil only has one way to enter and one way to exit.
Hmm. Have you pushed a knife in there? they don't appear glued. I might have to cut one and unfold the element. looking for a c&p video ...
 
In Idaho? In the winter??

No. Not great advice. I mean it would work OK summer months........but what are you really saying this will do for his V8?
Oh, sorry I meant AMSOIL ATM - what was I thinking 😅

Heavy towing with a small block v8. Requires higher HTHS. 5W are VM laden.

10W30 are good to well below zero F - and a true synthetic moreso.

The Quaker State PDS rates the PP of this ILSAC 10W30 FS at -54°C and CCS at 4130 cP @ -25°C

If he finds it suboptimal tooling around town after the stressful trip he can dump it.
Should be fine.

Where are yall getting V8 from?

New Tundra has 3445cc twin turbo V6 with direct & port injection.
 
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