Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w-20 schedule

I have often started my cars in -20C temperatures and immediately started driving. There are some times when it fogs up a little bit, but sitting there idling won’t help it warm up nearly as quickly as driving it will.
My neighbor drives off at -20f regularly hanging his head out of the window. His piston slap and power steering whine can be heard until out of earshot.
 
My neighbor drives off at -20f regularly hanging his head out of the window. His piston slap and power steering whine can be heard until out of earshot.
I used to have a neighbor with a Miata who drove it year round and always had the top down unless it was raining. I would see him on the coldest winter day with a huge parka on and a thick toque on his head. Now that was a little crazy 🤣
 
I have often started my cars in -20C temperatures and immediately started driving. There are some times when it fogs up a little bit, but sitting there idling won’t help it warm up nearly as quickly as driving it will.
Agree. This has been my approach.
 
My neighbor drives off at -20f regularly hanging his head out of the window. His piston slap and power steering whine can be heard until out of earshot.
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Is this your neighbor? :ROFLMAO:
 
There’s no just driving off under certain temps. Especially when just breathing ices up the windshield. I always warm up my vehicles as instructed to me by GM engineers. “Best to start driving easy when coolant temps are around 120f”. In the summer that’s a minute or so, in the winter it could be 10 minutes plus.

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That's hardcore! I've never seen lower than maybe -5 in all my years in Northern NJ; at least while driving.
 
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That's hardcore! I've never seen lower than maybe -5 in all my years in Northern NJ; at least while driving.
Speaking of hardcore, this is our forecast for Friday. The Friday overnight temps are interesting, and tonight is not much warmer.
Yes, temps in Fahrenheit. -40 is same in Celsius and Fahrenheit.

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Speaking of hardcore, this is our forecast for Friday. The Friday overnight temps are interesting, and tonight is not much warmer.
Yes, temps in Fahrenheit. -40 is same in Celsius and Fahrenheit.

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I can't compete with that nor do I want to!

Tonight is supposed to be a low of 9F.

This is our forecast for the next few days. Already put my wife's car on the charger today and now have my Legacy on the charger. Probably won't charge the Impreza since I already did a few days ago.

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Well, I was commenting on the Extended Performance 0W-20 that I use for at least the last 3 years, not 5W-30. The OP asks for that viscosity, not 5W-30.
Do you have UOA for Extended Performance 0W-20?

Indeed! Search my feed. IIRC, I've posted a Blackstone UOA of my F150. When new, I was running Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20 and later moved to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 and haven't looked back. My 5.0 engine forgot it was supposed to lose gas mileage using the thicker weight.
 
If I were getting in a vehicle at -20F it would be equipped with a plug in coolant heater. Oh, yeah! I did that on a Mercedes Diesel I owned. Cranked right up with one glow and any air above freezing coming out of the vents felt warm.
In those temps a block heater doesn't change much to be honest. That and I have no place to plug it in while at work.
 
There’s no just driving off under certain temps. Especially when just breathing ices up the windshield. I always warm up my vehicles as instructed to me by GM engineers. “Best to start driving easy when coolant temps are around 120f”. In the summer that’s a minute or so, in the winter it could be 10 minutes plus.

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I've never looked at the coolant temp. Just let the thing idle for 20 minutes or.so and you will be just fine.
 
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Yes I understand. I've started cars in a polar vortex at -28F. I get it.

Again, you have a 1GR-FE. It's one of the best engines Toyota has ever made. You could probably run that on Chevron Supreme conventional and take it to 300-400k no problem. Thanks for sharing your experience, but you can't generalize it to someone with one of these new tiny 4 bangers with a turbo and GDI. Completely different beast.
I get it. Turbo GDI are a different beast. With that said I trust Toyota Engineers and would probably just follow the guilines in the owners manual until I got a baseline UOA.
 
I can't compete with that nor do I want to!

Tonight is supposed to be a low of 9F.

This is our forecast for the next few days. Already put my wife's car on the charger today and now have my Legacy on the charger. Probably won't charge the Impreza since I already did a few days ago.

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You put your cars on a charger when its cold? I've never put a car on a charger unless the battery is dead.
All things considered thats not really cold either.
 
I get it. Turbo GDI are a different beast. With that said I trust Toyota Engineers and would probably just follow the guilines in the owners manual until I got a baseline UOA.
Normally I would put trust in Toyota as well. But their reputation currently isn't doing so hot with the V35A issue, I know...different engine in this discussion. But they still haven't figured out an issue that's plagued that engine since 2018....

I would have also blindly trusted Subaru's intervals of 6k/6mo in our Subaru Ascent. But after 8 used oil analysis at 4k-5k intervals showing OVER 5% fuel dilution with viscosity dropping a full grade out of spec (20wt down to mid-low 16wt viscosity and 30wt down to mid 20wt), just shows you can't simply have a generalized statement something like this just because it works for a different engine in your own experience. The only way you know is to test the oil in the engine you have or get a general idea based off other used oil analysis.

Low stress engines that are seemingly overbuilt seem to be a thing of the past. It's all about efficiency currently and that means smaller displacement, turbos, higher compression, thinner oils, higher heat and lowest possible RPM to achieve acceleration or cruising speeds. All of that stresses oil in a completely different manner than a 240hp 4.0 or 278hp 3.5 naturally aspirated V6's ever will. I mean we're about 317lbft at 1700rpm in the T24A, that's a ton of stress with that kind of cylinder pressure and fuel being dumped in at extremely high pressures. All in the name of emissions. It sure is impressive that they can engineer an engine like that using 87 octane too.
 
You put your cars on a charger when its cold? I've never put a car on a charger unless the battery is dead.
All things considered thats not really cold either.
I do, especially if I know they won't be driven for a few days. Usually a few hours fully charges them. I know it isn't a long time but at least one of my cars can sit anywhere from 2 - 5 days if not more but usually not more.
 
I do, especially if I know they won't be driven for a few days. Usually a few hours fully charges them. I know it isn't a long time but at least one of my cars can sit anywhere from 2 - 5 days if not more but usually not more.
I've never heard of someone doing this and cant imagine why you would.
 
Cause I want my batteries to last. And, well let's admit it, I have issues!
I actually do the same on my truck. Part of it is just from a little OCD, but also I've gotten over 5 years out of my truck's battery with a pretty demanding service life. Lots of cold starts and short trips. I think the Battery Tender helps a little bit. I put an outlet in my garage in front of both cars for this reason. I need to see about getting some leads routed to the grill so I don't have to pop the hood.
 
I actually do the same on my truck. Part of it is just from a little OCD, but also I've gotten over 5 years out of my truck's battery with a pretty demanding service life. Lots of cold starts and short trips. I think the Battery Tender helps a little bit. I put an outlet in my garage in front of both cars for this reason. I need to see about getting some leads routed to the grill so I don't have to pop the hood.
I use the Odyssey branded 15amp charger for both cars that have Odyssey batteries and the leads aren't detachable like my other CTEKs. My other 2 cars could be done but I don't bother. One has a CTEK 7002 connected all the time since it just sits in the garage and the other I got back and forth with using either that same 7002 or the MXS 5.0. Been using the 7002 a little more on the CRV since it's been colder out and is a higher amperage. Probably doesn't matter.
 
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