Mobil 1 ESP, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, Quaker State Euro to name a few
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w-20 schedule
- Thread starter 93cruiser
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I am in 6th gear so nothing excessive. All my shifts up to that point are less than or around 3k RPM. I dont ever really beat on it.
Right, so seeing lower rpm on a DI turbo engine, on a high, extended load. Beating the peep out of the main rod bearings. I'd be looking for an HTHS of 3.5 or more. Way outside 0W-20 specs of course.
If his last thread is any indication, I don't think he's actually looking to change what he's doing, but rather just looking for validation for the choice he's already made. I completely agree with your recommendation.
Can also add Castrol Euro Edge to that list. It's back at Walmart now too. It's VW 502 though. I'd personally probably use a VW 504 oil like Mobil 1 ESP for the lower ash content to decrease intake valve deposits given the GDI engine though.
I've only seen a couple used oil analysis on the T24A-FTS. Both of those had over 3% fuel dilution in roughly 5k OCI's, one using 5w30 (3% @ 4300 miles) and the other using 0w20 (4.9% @ 4900 miles). Those are the only 2 data points I've seen and you won't know if yours is similar unless you do a used oil analysis. If that's universal with that engine, I wouldn't go past 5k intervals no matter if you stick with 0w20 or Xw30. In my Subaru Ascent, I see over 5% fuel dilution in as little as 4k mile intervals, so I stick with roughly 3k-4k intervals.
As far as specific oil recommendations, I don't have any. My preferences are Valvoline Restore and Protect, Amsoil and Mobil 0w30 ESP in no particular order. If I had a new Tacoma with the T24A, I'd probably use Mobil 0w30 ESP or Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 because I like to pickup oil off the shelf when I need it.
As far as specific oil recommendations, I don't have any. My preferences are Valvoline Restore and Protect, Amsoil and Mobil 0w30 ESP in no particular order. If I had a new Tacoma with the T24A, I'd probably use Mobil 0w30 ESP or Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 because I like to pickup oil off the shelf when I need it.
Is it really low rpm? It redlines at 5.5k
What is your rpm once you're at constant cruise speed on that hill?
Im going to guess 2700 rpm. Peak torque is 1700rpm, so I don't feel its being over loaded as previously suggested.
I've been running it at 10k intervals for years with great results.
Stop babying the thing and get on the gas.
I live in a cold climates. I always let me vehicle warm up for 20 min or more in cold weather. Its never bothered them at all and I've never had fuel dilution in my used oil analysis.
What engine and service type?
Just a waste of gas, and you are going to get fuel dilution, but you might burn enough off that when you send the sample, it tests low, but you can't burn off all the parts of gas that get into the oil.
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- Aug 16, 2022
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Mobil 1 0W-40 and sleep well at night
So he uses Mobil 1 5W-30 in an old school engine, 1GR-FE. Port injection. No turbo. That recommendation doesn't mean much for the engines today. I'm sure OP's engine is puking gas into the oil.
Very good recommendation.
A little increase in gas consumption is a good trade off for not getting into a -20 degree truck.
As I said I have never had a used oil analysis that showed fuel and wear metals have always been good save for one incident that had nothing to do with the oil.
It now has well over 200k on the clock and runs fine with no oil consumption at all.
You guys severely over think this stuff.
Yes I understand. I've started cars in a polar vortex at -28F. I get it.
Again, you have a 1GR-FE. It's one of the best engines Toyota has ever made. You could probably run that on Chevron Supreme conventional and take it to 300-400k no problem. Thanks for sharing your experience, but you can't generalize it to someone with one of these new tiny 4 bangers with a turbo and GDI. Completely different beast.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
If I were getting in a vehicle at -20F it would be equipped with a plug in coolant heater. Oh, yeah! I did that on a Mercedes Diesel I owned. Cranked right up with one glow and any air above freezing coming out of the vents felt warm.
There’s no just driving off under certain temps. Especially when just breathing ices up the windshield. I always warm up my vehicles as instructed to me by GM engineers. “Best to start driving easy when coolant temps are around 120f”. In the summer that’s a minute or so, in the winter it could be 10 minutes plus.
Patman
Staff member
I have often started my cars in -20C temperatures and immediately started driving. There are some times when it fogs up a little bit, but sitting there idling won’t help it warm up nearly as quickly as driving it will.