Redline 0w40, 5w40 and 10w40: What is the difference?

[altaylar]

So?

I have a couple of excellent UOAs for that oil in a twin turbo V12.

I ran the oil for 10,000 miles and a twin turbo charged 12 cylinder engine creating over 500 hp. The oil viscosity was fine. The wear metal very low.

You’re focused on one number as an aspect of performance, when in fact, you should be more concerned with specification, requirements, and actual performance across a broad set of parameters.

What do you think you need that exceeds the MB 229.5 specification for HTHS?

I’ve asked you several questions to better understand your question. To better understand why the difference matters, and to understand what parameters of oil performance are important to you.

You have failed to answer every single one of them.

The only person being difficult here, is you.

I don’t see any point in trying to understand your question any more.

Best of luck.

Yet, the my post does not ask how many cylinders your vehicle have.

I was trying to learn about the difference between 3 products from a certain firm.

 

[Astro14]

Your ability to redirect, obfuscate and avoid are truly impressive.

Best of luck.

 

[4wd]

I always go for high HTHS and low Noack.

Given the figures above, that says 5W40 or 10W40.

Given that both offer sufficient cold weather starting, I then look for the lowest KV100 viscosity for the highest HTHS. This points to the lowest VII polymer load. Which is the 10W40 in this case.

According to the RedLine website I just read, their oils are “ Full-synthetic ester/PAO formula“. So they may have changed hands, but they are still making Group-IV / Group-V synthetics.

Me? I would go the 10W40.

Redline is one of the few companies that will post a very low Noack on a 10W - which is why I use their PAO/ester/zddp+ in a hot running generator …
The cheap formulations can get “playful” with 10W’s …

 

[tired]

So, what I am picking up from this thread is that Mobil 1 Euro 0w40 formula is a solid choice?

It's one of the greats.

 

[tired]

For some reason Amsoil tech

You asked AMSOIL and Red Line?

Very strange response. AMSOIL makes something for everyone and everything.

The OEM specs for that engine are all deprecated. ACEA A3/B4 is the successor to the OEM approval recommended back then. (It also had API SG/CD.)

 

[Japanese]

Sidebar - So, what I am picking up from this thread is that Mobil 1 Euro 0w40 formula is a solid choice? IIRC, I have only ever seen 5w40 in stock at my local Wally.. Does 5w40 get the same wrap as the 0w40?

Carry on Gents

No it does not. Atleast not from the aspects that the 0w-40 was praised for which was PAO and ester use. SP 0w-40 has no ester anymore or ANs but has more PAO than before. 5w-40 had neither for SN or SP

GTL/PAO

That oil was introduced in 2008 specifically for Nissan GT-R which is high compression V6 bi-turbo.

2008
Mobil 1™ 0W-40 synthetic engine oil was selected as the factory and service fill motor oil for the 2008 NISSAN GT-R. The superior performance of Mobil 1™ oil was confirmed through various performance and field tests made by Nissan. Mobil 1 oil was selected as the best partner to obtain great performance from the NISSAN GT-R.

https://www.mobil.com/en/sap/our-products/why-mobil/our-history/one-great-oil-one-great-story

However, it looks like is far from its early days.

 

[Japanese]

You asked AMSOIL and Red Line?

Very strange response. AMSOIL makes something for everyone and everything.

Yes, I did. Red Line didn't answer yet.

Not only the Amsoil tech answered just that short, but also he didn't bother to explain what's the difference b/w the three 40 grades 0W, 5W, and 10W and why there is no 5W-40 and 10W-40 as part of the Signature Series.

That last question was for you from the other day discussion about those three 40 grades.

He also may answer that way because once (when I was getting Amsoil spam emails) I said that I'll sue Amsoil because on an oil label was written something that was not true and that cause my transmission to run poorly (which was true) and that might be recorded somewhere in their archive.

 

[CleanSump]

I asked Redline, their response is that they carry the same adpack, all group 4 and 5. The only difference is the VII.

BLUF: Redline gave you the answer.
You stated Winter rating doesn't matter.
The rest is in Redline's online data sheets.
10W-40 has somewhat higher Noack than the 0W and 5W if that is important to you. Otherwise, flip a coin. None are approved by Ferrari.

 

[OVERKILL]

That oil was introduced in 2008 specifically for Nissan GT-R which is high compression V6 bi-turbo.

No, the oil was not introduced in 2008 for the Nissan GT-R, it was specified for the Nissan GT-R and selected as the factory and service fill, just like it had been for AMG, Porsche and the SRT vehicles. The oil sold in 2008 was the API SL formulation (introduced ~2004), which was replaced somewhere around 2010-ish with the SM version.

 

[tired]

10W-40 has somewhat higher Noack than the 0W and 5W if that is important to you.

This has always been a little puzzling to me.

 

[Brian123]

This has always been a little puzzling to me.

What I looked up showed:
0W-40 has a NOACK of 8
5W-40 has a NOACK of 6
10W-40 has a NOACK of 6
Now the Euro 5W-30 and Euro 5W-40 has a NOACK of 5!

 

[tired]

What I looked up showed:
0W-40 has a NOACK of 8
5W-40 has a NOACK of 6
10W-40 has a NOACK of 6
Now the Euro 5W-30 and Euro 5W-40 has a NOACK of 5!

Yeah you'd think the Noack would be lower in the 10W-40. Still very low.

What do you think Noack stands for exactly, since you're using all caps?

 

[Brian123]

/ AMSOIL First in Synthetics and Best Motor Oil / By MyOilBuddy

NOACK VOLATILITY TEST (ASTM D5800)​

If Amsoil can use caps then I will, this Noack thing is something that only Pablo knows about!

 

[330indy]

4wd “I use their PAO/ester/zddp+ in a hot running generator …”


I use Red Line in my riding mower

 

[CleanSump]

If Amsoil can use caps then I will, this Noack thing is something that only Pablo knows about!

Now we all know. It's Noack for Kurt Noack. It's not an acronym.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noack_volatility_test

 

[Japanese]

I was trying to learn about the difference between 3 products from a certain firm.

10W-40 has somewhat higher Noack than the 0W and 5W if that is important to you.

What I looked up showed:
0W-40 has a NOACK of 8
5W-40 has a NOACK of 6
10W-40 has a NOACK of 6

Yeah you'd think the Noack would be lower in the 10W-40. Still very low.

Hi everyone,
I got an answer from Red Line oils about what of those 40 grade oil is best to use in the OP car during the summer in Canada. Also, it's interesting that the tech recommends 10W-40 for summer use, but not for track use and at temp above 10°C / 50°F (the last sentence).

I'll keep this email for later use when people on here argue with me about 10W-XX oils and their lowest temp. use (pumpability).

Red Line oils tech answer and recommendation below:
I don't want to include the tech's name, but below I'm showing screenshot of the actual email which ends with the tech name and Red Line logo (not on the screenshot):

"All three are excellent, ester-based, high-HTHS oils, but for a summer-only, high-revving, 1990s Ferrari used in a moderate-to-warm climate, you can bias slightly toward the “thicker when hot, simpler when cold”.

The main advantage of 0W and 5W grades is cold-crank/low-temp pumpability (e.g., Red Line 0W-40 remains pourable down to -60°C and meets CCS at -35°C).

In a summer-only car, that extra low-temp capability is largely unused.

All three are “thick” 40s with high HTHS – 10W-40 is right in the sweet spot.

5W-40 and 10W-40 are nearly identical when hot; both have HTHS 4.4 and low volatility (6% NOACK). 10W-40 achieves this with a slightly narrower viscosity spread (10W→40 instead of 0W→40 or 5W→40), which generally means less viscosity improver and excellent shear stability over time – something I like for older performance engines that may see high oil temps and sustained revs.

Red Line 5W-40 gives a little extra cold-start margin, with virtually identical hot performance to 10W-40. Red Line 5W-40 could be considered with temps hovering around freezing

Red Line 0W-40 could be considered if you were regularly cold-starting near or below −20°C, for summertime driving the extra cold-flow capability is wasted.

Red Line 10W-40 would be the suggested product for mostly fair-weather street driving, occasional spirited runs, no track, starts above ~10°C.

Thanks"

Red Line email screenshot:

 

[kschachn]

Hi everyone,
I got an answer from Red Line oils about what of those 40 grade oil is best to use in the OP car during the summer in Canada. Also, it's interesting that the tech recommends 10W-40 for summer use, but not for track use and at temp above 10°C / 50°F (the last sentence).

I'll keep this email for later use when people on here argue with me about 10W-XX oils and their lowest temp. use (pumpability).

Red Line oils tech answer and recommendation below:
I don't want to include the tech's name, but below I'm showing screenshot of the actual email which ends with the tech name and Red Line logo (not on the screenshot):

"All three are excellent, ester-based, high-HTHS oils, but for a summer-only, high-revving, 1990s Ferrari used in a moderate-to-warm climate, you can bias slightly toward the “thicker when hot, simpler when cold”.

The main advantage of 0W and 5W grades is cold-crank/low-temp pumpability (e.g., Red Line 0W-40 remains pourable down to -60°C and meets CCS at -35°C).

In a summer-only car, that extra low-temp capability is largely unused.

All three are “thick” 40s with high HTHS – 10W-40 is right in the sweet spot.

5W-40 and 10W-40 are nearly identical when hot; both have HTHS 4.4 and low volatility (6% NOACK). 10W-40 achieves this with a slightly narrower viscosity spread (10W→40 instead of 0W→40 or 5W→40), which generally means less viscosity improver and excellent shear stability over time – something I like for older performance engines that may see high oil temps and sustained revs.

Red Line 5W-40 gives a little extra cold-start margin, with virtually identical hot performance to 10W-40. Red Line 5W-40 could be considered with temps hovering around freezing

Red Line 0W-40 could be considered if you were regularly cold-starting near or below −20°C, for summertime driving the extra cold-flow capability is wasted.

Red Line 10W-40 would be the suggested product for mostly fair-weather street driving, occasional spirited runs, no track, starts above ~10°C.

Thanks"

Red Line email screenshot:

View attachment 336134

So, the difference is… the winter rating.

 

[tired]

So, the difference is… the winter rating.

Who could have possibly seen this coming?