Mobil 1 Racing 0w50 versus RedLine 5w50

[JaseD]

G'day from Australia Christian,

I'm familiar with your builds through the LS1 Tech and Corvette forums, monster engines and car by the way, much respect and it doesn't look like finance is a problem. If you're looking for a racing oil and aren't worried about cost, what about something from the Joe Gibbs Driven range, they recommend their their XP9 10W40 for your horsepower and temperature range. Another good one is Torco SR5-r in a 5W40, both high end synthetics with high VI, good ZDDP levels, they both have 50's in their range as well if that's definitely your preference.

Best wishes,
Jason.

 

[ammolab]

Originally Posted By: miami993
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Mobil doesn't recommend using their racing synthetics on the street, so the Red Line street oil would be the way to go.


The catalytic are off the car since long and ZDDP is not a concern anymore, no real concerns by "using it on the street".



It is not the cats and ZDDP that keeps Mobil 1 racing oil off the street. It is the low TBN. Not enough for a street length OCI. It is a run today and drain tomorrow oil.

 

[Oil Changer]

I'd like to see some of those UOAs.

If you're changing the oil as often as you imply, buy a 55 gallon drum of conventional 20W-50 until you figure out what the problem is. You must have a roller valve train that couldn't care less what type of oil you use. Any camshaft that makes power to 7100 doesn't like to idle. What are your vacuum numbers? What's your air/fuel ratio? How much compression? What's the oil capacity? How many hours on the motor? Too many unanswered questions.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Any camshaft that makes power to 7100 doesn't like to idle.


That's not true, though you are basically at the limit for hydraulic roller at 7-7,500 and have to run some pretty heavy springs to keep things in check. The cam in my buddy's 302 pulled to 7K (designed power band was 3-6,800 with a shift point at ~7,000 IIRC) and other than having a bit of a lope it idled just fine. Pulled decent vacuum too with a 114LSA. Cam was a product of Camshaft Innovations, a guy that used to be pretty popular in the SBF crowd. I have one of his bump-sticks too.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: miami993
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Can't imagine what you must be doing here. Sounds like fuel dilution to me. I run that oil for multiple track days and never use a drop!


418 Cid (6850cc) V8 revving 7400rpm with an engine power from 6100 to 7100 rpm above 660 hp naturally Aspirated on 93 octane pump gas on stressful runs in the Florida heat...not sure why fuel dilution is not showing in oil analysis...?...but I guess it makes sense fuel dilution is a factor.

Christian


Interesting. From your user name "miami993", I thought you were running a Porsche! I was wondering why you weren't running M1 0w40, since it has Porsche approvals, and Porsche owners love it.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: miami993

I am looking for an alternative to the RedLine 5w50 my engine is presently using...and I am questioning this Mobil 0w50.

Christian


If you're complaining that M1 0w40 is losing viscosity, the M1 Racing 0w50 will probably lose a higher percentage of its virgin cSt. Both the 0w40 and 0w50 have the same HTHS of 3.8, so they will form equivalent oil film thicknesses in the bearings. And on the other hand, your experience with the RL 10w40 is that it maintains viscosity but causes valvetrain noise? The M1 5w50 would be a good oil to get between the M1 0w40 and RL 5w50. It has an HTHS of 4.4, which exactly splits the difference between 3.8 and 5.0, and has a VI of 180.

 

[miami993]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
If you're complaining that M1 0w40 is losing viscosity, the M1 Racing 0w50 will probably lose a higher percentage of its virgin cSt. Both the 0w40 and 0w50 have the same HTHS of 3.8, so they will form equivalent oil film thicknesses in the bearings.


Thank you A Harman for this very valuable observation...


Originally Posted By: A_Harman
And on the other hand, your experience with the RL 10w40 is that it maintains viscosity but causes valvetrain noise?


That is correct.

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
The M1 5w50 would be a good oil to get between the M1 0w40 and RL 5w50. It has an HTHS of 4.4, which exactly splits the difference between 3.8 and 5.0, and has a VI of 180.



Excellent, thank you.
Christian

 

[miami993]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman


Interesting. From your user name "miami993", I thought you were running a Porsche! I was wondering why you weren't running M1 0w40, since it has Porsche approvals, and Porsche owners love it.


My Porsche is still in Europe and I drive it there, the last limited series numbered edition of the air cooled engine 993 model from 1997, using Mobil 1 15w50...

Christian

 

[miami993]

Originally Posted By: JaseD
G'day from Australia Christian,

I'm familiar with your builds through the LS1 Tech and Corvette forums, monster engines and car by the way, much respect and it doesn't look like finance is a problem. If you're looking for a racing oil and aren't worried about cost, what about something from the Joe Gibbs Driven range, they recommend their their XP9 10W40 for your horsepower and temperature range. Another good one is Torco SR5-r in a 5W40, both high end synthetics with high VI, good ZDDP levels, they both have 50's in their range as well if that's definitely your preference.

Best wishes,
Jason.


Thank you Jason for the king words,
This engine is still holding in there, peak power and power distribution are even more than initially planned, drive-ability is definitively impressive, and the engine idling I guess you saw some videos of it...!!!

I am trying to figure how I can have this engine longer in my car as it is the very best I ever had.

Christian

 

[miami993]

Originally Posted By: ammolab
Originally Posted By: miami993
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Mobil doesn't recommend using their racing synthetics on the street, so the Red Line street oil would be the way to go.


The catalytic are off the car since long and ZDDP is not a concern anymore, no real concerns by "using it on the street".



It is not the cats and ZDDP that keeps Mobil 1 racing oil off the street. It is the low TBN. Not enough for a street length OCI. It is a run today and drain tomorrow oil.


Ammolab,
You are here making a false statement or providing a wrong information.

According to Mobil who was asked this exact question in the post #3 by Brentalan (date 07/27/2012) in the complete thread below, find the correct information through their answer:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2697512

Christian

 

[JaseD]

Originally Posted By: miami993
Originally Posted By: JaseD
G'day from Australia Christian,

I'm familiar with your builds through the LS1 Tech and Corvette forums, monster engines and car by the way, much respect and it doesn't look like finance is a problem. If you're looking for a racing oil and aren't worried about cost, what about something from the Joe Gibbs Driven range, they recommend their their XP9 10W40 for your horsepower and temperature range. Another good one is Torco SR5-r in a 5W40, both high end synthetics with high VI, good ZDDP levels, they both have 50's in their range as well if that's definitely your preference.

Best wishes,
Jason.


Thank you Jason for the king words,
This engine is still holding in there, peak power and power distribution are even more than initially planned, drive-ability is definitively impressive, and the engine idling I guess you saw some videos of it...!!!

I am trying to figure how I can have this engine longer in my car as it is the very best I ever had.

Christian



G'day again Christian,

I have seen the videos and read right through the threads although it was a little while ago now, I'd need to refresh my memory on some of the details again. It's a super impressive car though and you were very generous with the info you shared of the builds from memory.

While I've done a fair bit of research, I'm in no way any expert like a few guys on here who certainly are, but I'm confident either of those oils I suggested would help give your engine a very good chance of living longer especially the Torco SR5-r. Even though it's a racing oil they do recommend it for highly modified street cars so with reasonably short change intervals I think it would be well up to the task. It's pretty expensive, especially here in Australia but probably not a lot worse than Redline though.

I've got some 5W30 here for one of my engines on it's next oil change, it's a good 100 cubes and 170hp down on yours though but gets turned to 7500rpm and makes good power for its capacity, it's currently got Joe Gibbs Driven synthetic 10W40 Hot Rod oil in it. Good luck with your engine for the future, stay safe and well and enjoy your car.

Best wishes,
Jason.