problem with Honda dealership oil change.

There are so many maintenance items that the average person would have absolutely no idea if they were or weren't completed. Did they change the transmission fluid on my 2022 Kia Soul last week? I have to take their word for it because I'm not disassembling everything just to check.
Funny you should say that, My Chevy Traverse since I tow with it, recommends transmission fluid changes... (forgot exact mileage) Lets say 45,000 miles.
I took it to the dealer for that. I did check under the truck and saw the pan wherever it was, was wet from the change ..
 
I've gotten into the habit of checking things when I get a vehicle back from service. Once I found the oil cap left off. It was on the air cleaner box (I think - I know it was under the hood and nowhere near the filler opening) and I'm amazed that I didn't lose it somewhere because I drove the truck for several days before I opened the hood to check something else. I also drove out of the service area with the intake plumbing completely disconnected. Fortunately the noise I was hearing made turn right around and go back to the service department.

As Reagan said, "trust, but verify."
I like to do my own oil changes. It saves both time and money. I also like to use full synthetic oil.
I don't like the "bulk oil" that all shops use.
The "bulk oil" companies know that lowest price is the primary deal maker with shops, so the race to have the lowest price oil likely means a very high percentage of group I oil, which isn't going to handle high temperature high sheer situations very well.

Even if your car is speced for 0W-20 which normally is synthetic, it would be easy for a shop to use "bulk conventional 5W-20", and charge you the higher synthetic oil price and pocket the price difference. It would be difficult if not impossible to verify that you got 0W-20 and not 5W-20 from some bulk oil hose.
 
Funny you should say that, My Chevy Traverse since I tow with it, recommends transmission fluid changes... (forgot exact mileage) Lets say 45,000 miles.
I took it to the dealer for that. I did check under the truck and saw the pan wherever it was, was wet from the change ..
Even then, one thing I've learned watching TE Videos guy is he slings copious brake cleaner at anything even remotely wet when he works and he leaves no trace that he did anything afterward.
 
When my in laws purchased condo here in Colorado Springs, they drove this 2009 Pilot with them and left it with us.
So, before leaving Las Vegas on a road trip, they changed the oil in the Hond Dealership. I wanted to change oil after 5k, took me 2ft breaker bar to unscrew bolt from oil pan. I was already contemplating a scenario in which I had to change the oil pan.
 
When my in laws purchased condo here in Colorado Springs, they drove this 2009 Pilot with them and left it with us.
So, before leaving Las Vegas on a road trip, they changed the oil in the Hond Dealership. I wanted to change oil after 5k, took me 2ft breaker bar to unscrew bolt from oil pan. I was already contemplating a scenario in which I had to change the oil pan.
They probably used a power socket wrench. Dealerships have express lube lifts with minimum wage unskilled people doing the oil changes, and use the cheapest bulk oil available, So doing an oil change at a dealer could be the worst thing you could do to your vehicle.
 
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They probably used a power socket wrench. Dealerships have express lube lifts with minimum wage unskilled people doing the oil changes, and use the cheapest bulk oil available, So doing an oil change at a dealer could be the worst thing you could do to your vehicle.
That is pretty general statement. I do believe that new guys are working on oil changes or that they use impact wrench.
But, I know for a fact that that particular Honda dealership uses Honda OE oil (probably made by Mobil1).
Also, no European dealership is going to use oil that is not approved for engines they are filling it.
 
That is pretty general statement. I do believe that new guys are working on oil changes or that they use impact wrench.
But, I know for a fact that that particular Honda dealership uses Honda OE oil (probably made by Mobil1).
Also, no European dealership is going to use oil that is not approved for engines they are filling it.
I hope you are right, but the added profit of using bulk oil is too much of a temptation for a dealership to pass up.
 
I just got a 2023 Mazda 3 with 4K miles on it. Dealer did an oil change before I picked it up. Used 5W-20, ironically, not in the book. Not a big deal, just thought it was funny...

Like others said, probably some bulk swill stuff. I'll run it to 6K (about 1800 miles total) then change it. Change it again at 10K and then do 5K OCI's after that.

Got home (it was dark.) so didn't do anything to check.

Next morning, went out early to try and beat rain. Checked oil cold, about a 1/4" above the full mark..........not too worried about it, but man......
 
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Local VW dealership has an interesting automated system for oil changes. Service writer enters vehicle information, mechanic, bay etc. into the system when writing service for the customer. This programs the bulk oil dispenser to deliver the correct amount for the mechanic who in turn has to verify the info before dispenser delivers oil to his/her bay. System also transfers info to the parts department so they can pull the proper filter and other parts needed for the service. Very, very few problems with their system. All of their bulk oil is Mobil 1 in the proper approval rating BTW. Dispensers using same approval rating go to the same bays each time to ensure a constant flow of proper oil and prevent mix ups.
 
I like to do my own oil changes. It saves both time and money. I also like to use full synthetic oil.
I don't like the "bulk oil" that all shops use.
The "bulk oil" companies know that lowest price is the primary deal maker with shops, so the race to have the lowest price oil likely means a very high percentage of group I oil, which isn't going to handle high temperature high sheer situations very well.

Even if your car is speced for 0W-20 which normally is synthetic, it would be easy for a shop to use "bulk conventional 5W-20", and charge you the higher synthetic oil price and pocket the price difference. It would be difficult if not impossible to verify that you got 0W-20 and not 5W-20 from some bulk oil hose.
Same here, but life has gotten in the way over the last couple of years. ;)

My Dad ran into the the oil weight issue you mentioned. He took Mom's Mercury to the dealership for the first oil change because 5W-20 was hard to find and he figured the dealership would use it. Nope, they used 5W-30 and when he called them on that they gave a vague answer that they didn't have it in stock either/the 20 version of the oil was more for fuel economy, yadda-yadda-yadda. So he went back to changing it on his own using the 5W-30 we already had, and going to 5W-20 once it was more available.
 
Same here, but life has gotten in the way over the last couple of years. ;)

My Dad ran into the the oil weight issue you mentioned. He took Mom's Mercury to the dealership for the first oil change because 5W-20 was hard to find and he figured the dealership would use it. Nope, they used 5W-30 and when he called them on that they gave a vague answer that they didn't have it in stock either/the 20 version of the oil was more for fuel economy, yadda-yadda-yadda. So he went back to changing it on his own using the 5W-30 we already had, and going to 5W-20 once it was more available.
Yes, dealers may be the worst choice for an oil change: expensive, and they may use whatever viscosity is easier for them.

My concern too is I own a 2008 Toyota Corolla CE which was the last year Toyota speced 5W-30 for this vehicle.
If I go to a Toyota dealer for an oil change, and they have the 0W-16 and 0W-8 oil in hoses to those respective bulk oil's,
I would have to worry that some minimum wage young guy at the Toyota dealer's Express Oil change bays could use the wrong hose, and he could put in 0W-8 oil which would effectively kill the engine.
 
Yeah, you have to check before you ever leave the dealership. Can't trust anyone any more. But think of all the extra profit if they short every car 0.5-1.0 qt. of oil.
 
Is bulk oil bad or something? All the major names are available to buy in bulk through wholesalers.
I think for most here, including myself, it's just the "unknown" concept of what it actually is. Is it bad? Probably not, but I like knowing exactly what oil, weight, amount, etc. is put in my car.

Lots of people go hundreds of thousands of miles on cheap bulk oil from their dealership. As long as the oil and filter are actually changed within the perscribed OCI's, I'm sure it's fine.
 
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I think for most here, including myself, it's just the "unknown" concept of what it actually is. Is it bad? Probably not, but I like knowing exactly what oil, weight, amount, etc. is put in my car.

Lots of people go hundreds of thosands of miles on cheap bulk oil from their dealership. As long as the oil and filter are actually changed within the perscribed OCI's, I'm sure it's fine.

That is fair and a dealer should tell you what they are putting in there. I have seen threads here when dealers won't divulge that info and that seems pretty shady. Last time we had a dealer change on one of our vehicles (free first change) they put Castrol Magnatec (still available in Canada in bulk and drums) right on the invoice.
 
Interesting point.

My Wife and I are under contract to buy a home, one of the "features" of the home- the home was built in 2019.......
IMG_2550.webp

Hmmmm…

I guess newer cars are always… newer. And wear items are less worn. But even then, and for much else…
 
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Hmmmm…

I guess newer cars are always… newer. And wear items are less worn. But even then, and for much else…
My first house in CT was built in 1953 and had floors like concrete - no bounce, no boominess, rock hard. In my current house built in 1987, if I go to the center of a room and jump up and down the stuff on the dresser shakes. Everything in the current house is to code but you can feel the difference.
 
It's very easy to get low oil level, just change oil and filter, bring it up to top level mark, check level again, all good - out the door....
But.... when you start engine first time after oil change some oil fills oil filter and thus oil level does go down.
I always get oil level between the marks first, start engine for a minute, engine off, wait a few mins, check level and top up to just below top mark. Unless it's a car with electronic oil level where you have to wait up to 30 mins to get oil level reading.... LOL
 
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