2020 F350 6.7l diesel- oil change at dealer gone wrong

I can't imagine a dealer showing a customer surveillance video like that. Also strange it would seize up that quickly.
It is a diesel. Lots of stuff to oil, and though the bearings are bigger than a gasoline engine they get hammered on more. And plain bearings need oil.

And ford diesels aren't the best. A Toyota (gas) will run without oil for a long while but ford diesels like to die from random design/quality flaws
 
Those 6.7 powerstrokes are known to be very slow in sending pressurized oil through the whole system. The gauge cluster oil pressure gauge is not accurate at all.

There are plenty of videos on YouTube that shows this issue. Dave’s Auto center on YouTube has a very good video demonstrating this issue.

The oiling design on these engines aren’t very good. Takes a long time for the pressurized oil to make it all way through the block and then up to the turbo pedestal.

It does sound like the dealer didn’t fill the oil properly or just messed up some other way.

It’s crazy because the R.O. will state something like (Oil and Filter Change / Diesel Engine - 15 quarts of oil).

It’s kind of crazy if a tech misses that. I work at a ford dealership.

But to be completely honest (just stating my experiences as someone that works at a ford dealership and sees this issue more often that I should), we do get lots of locked up 6.7 powerstrokes, or ones that are about to fail because of lubrication issues in our shop all the time, even after recommended oil change intervals were followed. Please don’t mistake it as all 6.7 are just bad engines. They are overall good engines! But some engine replacements are covered by warranty, and some are out of pocket because it is out of warranty. It gets very very expensive. One customer had to pay almost $30k for an engine replacement about 2-3 months ago.

Crazy, but the 6.7 (a great engine) sadly does not have the best oiling system. The engine relies heavily on left over oil in the bearings and passages for more than 10 seconds of running before the whole system gets pressurized oil. Do not start the truck and immediately put load on the engine. Let it idle for at least 20-30 seconds before driving!
 
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Crazy, but the 6.7 (a great engine) sadly does not have the best oiling system.

Which of course is why many resist calling it a "great engine" with oiling systems being so important and all.

One would think Ford would have fixed that early on but apparently not.


Let it idle for at least 20-30 seconds before driving!

That's the thing to do with all vehicles
 
I'll agree the 6.7 PS has a convoluted oiling system but it does not take more than 10 seconds to get oil pressure. I installed an oil psi guage on mine to keep an on it and within 2-3 seconds it has pressure. I actually took a video and posted it on another forum after Dave released that video. The way he tested it was very flawed.
 
What's wrong with the 6.7 Powerstroke's oiling system? Inquiring minds want to know. I've had mechanical oil pressure gauges on them before as well as my 23' 3.5 Tacoma and the oil pressure came up within the same amount of time. The 6.7 PSD takes longer to build pressure than other motors? Please explain. I haven't seen much variation between the 6.7 Cummins, 6.7 PSD and the 6.6 DMAX on mechanical gauges, dummy gauges, Ford is the slowest to respond, are you referring to that?
 
Ok, I'll go there. By taking my vehicle and waiting for it I have the opportunity to check the dipstick before it drives more than across the parking lot. So far I've never found zero oil, knock wood, but if I were lazy enough to have it delivered to me I couldn't check it immediately.
 
I wonder how the owner got on with this in the end. Would be interesting to hear if there has been an outcome.
 
What people don't understand is that when you take your vehicle to the dealership for an oil change, you are usually not going to get a “technician” working on it. Dealers have minimum wage workers who do basic tasks like oil changes. You pay ridiculous prices for service intervals, and a 17 year old might be the one wrenching on your $70k truck.

The 6.7 Powerstroke in particular is the easiest engine you will ever do. The oil drain and filter are simple as pie to access. Unless you have a medical condition that prevents you from laying on your back, nobody should ever be taking a truck to a dealership for basic service.
 
Your options are
1. Do it yourself.
2. Go to dealer where the part time high schooler trainee is doing oil changes and other basics (while you are still charged technician rate)
3. Go to a good local shop where every guy in there is an actual technician. (My choice and I have a GREAT local shop we use)
 
What people don't understand is that when you take your vehicle to the dealership for an oil change, you are usually not going to get a “technician” working on it. Dealers have minimum wage workers who do basic tasks like oil changes. You pay ridiculous prices for service intervals, and a 17 year old might be the one wrenching on your $70k truck.

The 6.7 Powerstroke in particular is the easiest engine you will ever do. The oil drain and filter are simple as pie to access. Unless you have a medical condition that prevents you from laying on your back, nobody should ever be taking a truck to a dealership for basic service.
No argument at all on your post. In addition, you don't have the upsell press from the dealership service writer.

Two possible advantages of a dealership oil change is it sure looks great on a Carfax, and second, if a vehicle is under warranty dealership oil changes are hard to deny if their is a dispute on maintenance schedules being followed.
 
My 2019 f350 6.7 diesel is under a Ford factory warranty for six more years. I may have the dealer change the oil, for the sole reason as to not get into a dispute for warranty coverage.
 
An 11 year warranty from Ford? Just keep your records. All they'd have to do is pop a valve cover off, the proof is right there. If you have a Turbo go north, they might look for coking, blocked feed lines etc ...stuff of being worked very hard on cheap oil and long intervals . Other than that, I'd not worry.
 
An 11 year warranty from Ford? Just keep your records. All they'd have to do is pop a valve cover off, the proof is right there. If you have a Turbo go north, they might look for coking, blocked feed lines etc ...stuff of being worked very hard on cheap oil and long intervals . Other than that, I'd not worry.
Yes, I took out the premium extended warranty. I may be off on my through year though. I think the mileage stops the warranty at 125k miles, but the truck has 57k miles and I only use the truck for moves. I took out the warranty because of the reportedly common fuel pump failures, causing about $12k USD for a Ford dealer to repair. I didn't want to be moving cross country, have a fuel pump failure, and have the exposure of a $12k USD repair for a failure I am unable to repair myself, especially if on the interstate hauling a trailer.
 
Great on Carfax. That's like putting your business ad in the Southwestern Bell Yellow Pages. Looks great when the right people see it but it is FAR from the best tool to market your car.
Ford the CP4, drain the water separator EVERY time before you start it if you let it sit for 3-5 weeks between starts. ALWAYS CYCLE THE IGNITION for 4 times for 15 seconds each. Add Optilube xpd at their high dose every fill up. Change your filters every 15k and cycle the key 8 times after doing so. If you let it sit 3-5 weeks between starting, turn on the ignition 4-5 seconds before starting to prime the Fuel system and reduce the chances of the cp4 of sucking air.
Some people change filters often but don't prime the system after=issues
Some people don't drain the water separator often=issues.
When starting after a few weeks, some start without a quick priming....eeehhh not good for it.
Some never use a fuel pump lube, aaahhh big deal. The CP4 needs good lube to live a long life, Shaeffers Diesel Treat, Redline 85+ and Optilube xpd/XL are my top.
 
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Great on Carfax. That's like putting your business ad in the Southwestern Bell Yellow Pages. Looks great when the right people see it but it is FAR from the best tool to market your car.
When I see a Carfax full of regular oil changes for a dealer it adds a lot of value in my mind. On the other hand, when we see a vehicle with jiffy lube or a like third party doing the oil change, the value diminishes in my mind. I put a lot of weight into a used car that has a strong dealer maintenance history.
 
If oil changes are done at Jiffy Lube or the like and the car has a decent amount of miles the oil changes at least were not harmful. The Valvoline Oil Change place in my area does a great job-isn't cheap however.

Again-these "Jiffy Lube type" places do thousands of oil changes-and cars are not at the side of the road with blown motors.
 
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