Post Your Latest Coolant Change.

2000 GM 3800.
Replaced all hoses with Gates ECR hoses and new GM thermostat.
Flush refill with 6qts John Deere Coolguard original formula and 6 qts distilled water.
The info on the Gates hoses is no longer valid, they have become some of the worst hoses on the market. I have had some of them delaminate. The post is from 13 years ago, today I use OE only for coolant hose, the JD coolant is still a great coolant.
 
Partial change on our Expedition as it sprang a leak in a heater hose. I replaced about 25% with new G05 coolant to top off after draining enough to do the repairs. It had a drain and fill last year so I'm going to call this good for an extra year before it's next drain and fill.
 
2003 Kia Sedona
3.5 V6
Radiator replacement, just a drain and fill
Out: unknown coolant
In: Providence conventional green premix

2017 Ford F-150
5.0 V8
Water pump replacement, just topped off what was lost
Out: Motorcraft Orange
In: Prime Guard orange premix
 
2013 Ford flex 3.5 Ecoboost 177K miles.
Out: unknown, looked like a really faint orange, probably OEM coolant.
In: Motorcraft yellow concentrate mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Also replaced thermostat with an OEM unit. It was so nice doing a coolant flush/service on a more modern vehicle for once. System was still nice and clean; I'm used to flushing out sewer water from cooling systems.

- first time using the Motorcraft yellow coolant, which had way more of a classic green color to it than yellow, thought that was kind of odd.
 
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Yesterday 2/5/24 --- Simple drain and fill...
2008 Toyota Tundra in signature..

Out --- almost 2 gallon of unknown coolant...

In -- almost 2 gallons of Peak Asian Red/Pink coolant --- label stated 1990 and after Toyotas...
 
The info on the Gates hoses is no longer valid, they have become some of the worst hoses on the market. I have had some of them delaminate. The post is from 13 years ago, today I use OE only for coolant hose, the JD coolant is still a great coolant.
Nothing’s safe anymore. But if OE is NLA, now what?
 
Finally got around to doing a change of chemistry coolant change (standard life HD to DD PowerCool+ extended life OAT coolant) in my 96 Prevost XL40' bus/motorhome. System holds 24 gals. I did 5 dump & fills with distilled water. Then the 6th one I filled it with 12.5 gals of DD PowerCool+ and screwed on a blank h2o filter. I can only drain about 12-14 gals each time I do a dump and fill. I also need to drive it at least 20 miles to get the thermostats (190*f) to open each time. 4 days and 70+ gals of distilled water for this job.
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Finally got around to doing a change of chemistry coolant change (standard life HD to DD PowerCool+ extended life OAT coolant) in my 96 Prevost XL40' bus/motorhome. System holds 24 gals. I did 5 dump & fills with distilled water. Then the 6th one I filled it with 12.5 gals of DD PowerCool+ and screwed on a blank h2o filter. I can only drain about 12-14 gals each time I do a dump and fill. I also need to drive it at least 20 miles to get the thermostats (190*f) to open each time. 4 days and 70+ gals of distilled water for this job.
View attachment 203166
The DD PowerCool+ I used was the concentrate, not the pre-mixed.
 
2005 Dodge Ram 1500
5.7 V8
Replaced radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, flushed block and heater core
Out: unknown green coolant
In: Prime Guard conventional green full strength/distilled water 50/50
 
Back in November, on a 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3V6, did a drain and distilled water flush. Filled with Hyundai Antifreeze to a 40/60 (water/antifreeze) mix.
 
1987 Chevrolet Silverado R10
5.0 V8
Replaced radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, flushed block and heater core
Out: brown stuff
In: Prime Guard conventional green full strength/distilled water 50/50
 
1990 Chevrolet Cheyenne 1500
4.3 TBI V6
Radiator replacement
Drain and fill, no flushing
Out: Shellzone conventional green
In: Prime Guard conventional green full strength, distilled water 50/50
 
2005 Tahoe 6.0
323,134

Pulled the peacock and Drained out about a year old Peak 10x + residual Dexcool left in block from the 4.8 to 6.0 motor swap last year.

Scrubbed the coolant bottle well with CLR then Dawn and flushed a ton.

Refilled with 50/50 Peak 10x. Will top off with some full strength concentrate tomorrow or tonight to capture any residual water in the bottom of the bottle.
 
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
5.3 Vortec V8
Replaced radiator, drained and filled radiator no flushing
Out: unknown orange coolant
In: Prime Guard Dexcool premix

1988 GMC Sierra 1500
5.0 TBI V8
Replaced thermostat housing and thermostat, drained and filled radiator no flushing
Out: Havoline conventional green
In: Prime Guard conventional green full strength, distilled water mixed 50/50
 
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
5.3 Vortec V8
Engine replacement with junkyard unit
Drained radiator, flushed heater core
Out: unknown orange coolant
In: Prestone Dexcool premix
 
2008 Chev Suburban 6.0 with front and rear heat, 260,000 miles, GMT 900

Original rad. It has no radiator cap and is filled through the jug. The jug is pressurized and part of the circulation system. Crazy as it sounds the 2008 radiator has no drain petcock. Draining is achieved by taking off the lower hose at the rad.

I used a remote hose clamp expander and lowered it to the clamp. I also removed part of the plastic fender liner to be able to pull the hose off the rad.

I tested the original as over 55% antifreeze. It’s Prestone Dexcool 5 years old. The total volume is about 4.5 gallons. I drained the rad and jug ( the jug drains totally with the rad). Approx.1.5 gallons came out). I then filled the rad through the jug with 1.5 gallons of distilled water. Idled the motor for about a half hour, made sure the top rad hose was hot and that the rear heat was warm.

Let the engine cool off and then tested the concentration. It was about 33%. Drained another 1.5 gallons and filled with 1.5 gallons of concentrated Dexcool made by Prestone. Idled the engine again while I did some other maintenance. Will check the final concentration in the morning.
 
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Here is the clamp expander which I used from above the radiator to the bottom hose. The bottom hose connection is shown inside the red circle. There is not much room to get pliers or a pair of clamp piers down in there.
Since there is no radiator cap, the engine is filled through the coolant jug.

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