Please quell my fears with M1 0W-30

[Greaser]

I had to order a block heater on my 1985 Chev S-10 pick-up in 85 when I ordered it new..$60...also had to order a bumper and passenger side sun visor

..thats how bare bones trucks where back then..nowadays I think you have to order a fleet in order to get barebones and even then they come with an AM-FM radio.Back to a block heater in the frost plug nearest the first cylinder of firing oder (usually).I would like to know the difference in piston cylinder wall diameter on various types of blocks ie. cast iron,alloy etc. when 70 degrees as compared to -30 degrees...this contraction has to play a major role on all engine componants at start-up.The oil heater wouldn't play a major role in this arena.I think a tank type or frost plug coolant type would warm up the head,cylinder in the crucial area of first combustion start-up and a good synthetic oil would carry on (heated would be better)..

 

[heyjay]

Well, there is contraction when cold. In some motors, like the older Big Block Chevy's, the excessive clearance caused piston slap until the motor warmed up. I don't think it's that big of a deal anymore.

In commercial equipment, they wanted both block/circulation heaters and oil pan heaters: one helps with starting, the other helps with cold pumping. Though now with good synthetics, you really don't have to worry about oil pan heaters unless consistently below -50 F ambient.

The frost plug heater only helps warm the immediate area, while the "tank" or circulation heater warms the entire block. The tank heater is superior, especially in a nasty windchill outside.

 

[Ross]

HeyJay. You cought my attention!

This past July I purchased a new Chevy 1500HD 6.0
Silverado

I had researched the engine slap or cold start knock problems with this engine before I bought it. I was told that the 2003's had some design changes to help prevent it. Coated pistons or something like that.

In about October I had 1500 miles on it so I changed over to M1 5w30 with a wix filter. Soon after that the temps started to get cold. I live in North Dakota. When the temps are below around 20 F, I get a muffled knocking sound (CSK?) starting about 10 seconds after the car is started, and lasting about 60-90 seconds depending on temps. The colder it is the longer the muffled knocking last. Even when it's -15 F, the nocking will go away after 90 seconds or so. I really don't get that initial lifter chatter on start up.

I started getting worried that I had cold start knock, so I changed the oil again with M1 5w30 but used a AC Delco ultragaurd GOLD UPF-44 filter cause they are suppose to flow the best when cold.
It didn't seem to help much. Still getting 60-90 seconds of knocking. I have to let it idle for that time, or you can really hear it if you attempt to drive around the 1500RPM range.
The knocking is only on cold start after the truck has sat overnight. If the temp get above 32 F I don't get the sound!!!

So, for now I just let it idle before taking off.

Do you think the M1 0w30 would help my situation??

Thanks!!

[ January 22, 2004, 04:22 AM: Message edited by: Ross ]

 

[heyjay]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ross:
HeyJay. You cought my attention!

This past July I purchased a new Chevy 1500HD 6.0
Silverado

I had researched the engine slap or cold start knock problems with this engine before I bought it. I was told that the 2003's had some design changes to help prevent it. Coated pistons or something like that.

In about October I had 1500 miles on it so I changed over to M1 5w30 with a wix filter. Soon after that the temps started to get cold. I live in North Dakota. When the temps are below around 20 F, I get a muffled knocking sound (CSK?) starting about 10 seconds after the car is started, and lasting about 60-90 seconds depending on temps. The colder it is the longer the muffled knocking last. Even when it's -15 F, the nocking will go away after 90 seconds or so. I really don't get that initial lifter chatter on start up.

I started getting worried that I had cold start knock, so I changed the oil again with M1 5w30 but used a AC Delco ultragaurd GOLD UPF-44 filter cause they are suppose to flow the best when cold.
It didn't seem to help much. Still getting 60-90 seconds of knocking. I have to let it idle for that time, or you can really hear it if you attempt to drive around the 1500RPM range.
The knocking is only on cold start after the truck has sat overnight. If the temp get above 32 F I don't get the sound!!!

So, for now I just let it idle before taking off.

Do you think the M1 0w30 would help my situation??

Thanks!!

---

My 2000 GMC Sierra with Vortec 5.3 only made that noise under two circumstances: one was when I tried using a cheap Purolator filter, it obviously had no anti-drainback flapper; the other was in temps consistently below 0 F.

However, if you check out the GM Trucks forum at:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums

and search this issue, it appears for some reason the Vortec 6.0 has more of this than the smaller blocks. There are so many variables involved I don't think anybody has a definite handle on it.

I noticed for my Vortec using Mobil 1 0W-30 in winter made a difference. My owner manual even states to use a "synthetic 0W-30 or 5W-30 in temps colder than -20 F."

Since the 0W-30 was available, I chose to use that instead of the 5W-30 for winter. The MRV values, especially below -10 F, become more obvious.

If you want to try a simple experiment, get a case of Mobil 1 0W-30. It's the same price as the 5W-30 and 10W-30. Try an oil change and see if it works: I use the dealer AC Delco PF-59 filter no problems.

If it does work for you, then you will be happy. If it makes minimal or no difference, you've only spent $30 for oil and filter.

Let me know how it goes.

Jerry

 

[Ross]

Thans heyjay. This is one of the forums that I checked out before I bought it. pickuptruck.com and fullsizechevy.com where the other too.

I may have to give the 0w30 a try. It can't hurt.

You are also correct about the frost plug heater. It makes the truck start easier, but I still get the knocking. When I do start it with it pluged in, I notice it runs rough for about 5 seconds. It's almost like half the engine is warmer than the other half, but it does start easier on the first turn with it plugged in.

for 2003 GM when to the pf-44 in place of the pf-59. No one knows why. Some say it has something to do with CSK.

Thanks for the advice.

BTW I see some Canadia cars down here that have THREE plug ins. One for the antifreeze, one for the oil, and one as a battery warmer. Electricity must be cheap up north!!

Ross

 

[heyjay]

Yeah, those frost-plug heaters only help getting you started in cold temps. For my 1984 Ford F-150 I went to Canadian Tire and picked up a 1,500 watt "tank" or circulation heater.

It's plumbed into the heater hose. You leave the heat lever on HOT so the valve is open in the heater core. When plugged in, the thing makes a CHUFF CHUFF CHUFF CHUFF sound.

In the unheated but insulated garage, even at -40, in 30 minutes the block is WARM. Instant cold start and the heater is already blowing warm air.

If parked outside, like I had to be at work, plugged in 24x7. Same thing: instant cold start and instant heater.

I wish I could rig up a circulation heater for my 2000 GMC. The new Vortec motors have WIMPY block heaters!

The new Vortec motors appear to start good even at -40 F, assuming you use Mobil 1 0W-30. If you have deposits in your TB and IAC, you might have problems. I've posted quite a few tips at the GM Trucks forum, do a search there. My posts were under "jayman."

Problem is the heater core coolant flow is controlled by an electric or vacuum valve. Shut the thing off and no coolant flow through the heater core. Not sure if you can rig a tank heater to work in that situation.

You can always tell Canucks who have earned "real" cold-weather experience and must leave their car outside all the time: they know they have to keep the battery warm, and if oil is like taffy it won't flow.

Electricity cheap?? You must have noticed cars from Manitoba, where power IS cheap, like 5.2 cents a kWh and a $6.50 month service charge.

Here in Ontario my power charges have almost doubled over the past 6 years.

Thank YOU Ontario Hydro power debacle and the Mike Harris Progressive Conservative government of Ontario!

 

[Ross]

I forgot one more plug in. In addition to the anitfreeze, oil and battery heaters, some have what's called an "in car heater". It heats the interior of the car so your seats aren't rock hard when you get in. These are on a timer so they don't run all night. They are however becoming outdated. The new generation of remote car starters will start your car every so many hours or whenever the temps get to a set point.

I work the night shift. When I go out to my truck in the morning there will be a dozen car in the parking lot running with no one in them. Started remotely to warm up first!! To me it's just a waste of gas. Just get in, start, scrape windows and drive....

 

[heyjay]

I've seen those in-car warmers. A few years back Canadian Tire had to have a HUGE recall campaign because the in-car heaters were catching fire and burning the car to the rims.

Ooops!

I don't like those "remote start" or "automatic start" things either, mostly due to the extra wear and tear. I don't mind waiting 5 minutes for heat when I jump in.

Exception was logging equipment in the bush. Lot of that stuff you had to leave running 24x7 or it would never start. Procedure was to set the hand throttle to keep the engine at 1,200 RPM.