Here is my latest report. I wasn't happy with the iron levels (especially compared to other models with this engine) and decided to up the viscosity considering how I drive the truck, my climate location and my preference with the intervals. I drive it hard, no towing or heavy payloads but heavy/quick accelerations and about 80% highway driving. Pretty pleased with the results. Not sure about going to 12k as suggested but still happy with the results. At this oil change, I used just regular M1 5W-30 since it was readily available. I may switch it up to M1 0W-40 next go around. I'm not a fan of the 0W-20 that is spec'd for this engine and CAFE blah blah., fuel economy etc. Every oil tested before this was with 0W-20. Wish I had switched sooner. No telling what affects long term it may have caused but I guess better late than never. Probably overthinking all of this as most of us do but I'll sleep happier at night with a more robust oil.
2018 Toyota Tacoma 2GR-FKS, Castrol Edge EP 5W-30, 6,111 OCI
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With the exception of copper the 9k mile 0w-20 had the lowest wear numbers. Within all of these UOA the wear is nice & low. There is plenty of life left with this engine. 5w-30 may be an excellent compromise between 20w & 40w oils. Obviously 30 weights being more widely available as well as cheaper. I don't see any reason not to follow their recommendation of 12k especially with the 30 weight.
A couple of things:
1) it helps to compare wear metals per 1000 miles. So Fe on your 9.9k mile run would be 11/9.94 = 1.1ppm per 1000 miles, while Fe on your most recent run would be 9/6.111 = 1.5ppm per 1000 miles. So I agree with @fantastic here.
2) contact Blackstone and ask what the average miles are for the Universal Averages for your engine. Then you can do the same math on the Universal Averages for a more accurate comparison. It could be (if average mileage on UA is low enough) that your results are already better on a ppm/1000 mile basis.
edit: I went back and found your first UOA when you posted it originally and BS says the UA are based on 7600 miles. So Fe is 9/7.6 = 1.2ppm per 1000 miles. Your first UOA is the only report that betters UA for Fe.
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I’m sorry but your remark about 5w30 being cheaper is just not true at all. I have proof it’s not true as same price for 5w20 and 5w30 at AAP and Autozone and Wal Mart. Sorry, but that just makes my blood boil when folks spout this “misinformation”
Take care
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If under extended warranty, you stuck with they recommended intervals if/when there is a failure and the dealer/warranty police ask for maintenance proof and interval logs....
So, I would NEVER go past the recommended interval in the owners manual, which I'd guess is the 10k/yr that most new Toyotas with synth recommend.
UOA isn't wear. Some metals are from wear and much is caught by the filter. So, we're looking at metal ppm and don't know if its wear or not.
Sure, the engine will last a long time. But, you'll enjoy the common out-of-warranty chain/guide/tensioner/vvt replacement if you keep the vehicle longer than the warranty. This is why I'll recommend the thicker full synths and/or shorter 5k intervals.
I would switch to a high hths oil. So, your choice of a 0w40 is a good start. And, it'll do just fine with a 10k interval that I wouldn't bother with.
So, I would NEVER go past the recommended interval in the owners manual, which I'd guess is the 10k/yr that most new Toyotas with synth recommend.
UOA isn't wear. Some metals are from wear and much is caught by the filter. So, we're looking at metal ppm and don't know if its wear or not.
Sure, the engine will last a long time. But, you'll enjoy the common out-of-warranty chain/guide/tensioner/vvt replacement if you keep the vehicle longer than the warranty. This is why I'll recommend the thicker full synths and/or shorter 5k intervals.
I would switch to a high hths oil. So, your choice of a 0w40 is a good start. And, it'll do just fine with a 10k interval that I wouldn't bother with.
good report, nothing to complain here
It's fine. No need for a 40 wt. 12k is too far, you could try 8k. .02
Thanks all for the feedback. I have just seen a few of these engines, similar years with cylinder wall damage using 0w-20 after 100k miles or so. Not saying saying this is the root cause but I'm sure it isn't helping. Higher hths is something I'm in favor of. One example here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...l-2-cylinder-bad-repair-costs-options.360707/
This is not about misinformation & more about misunderstanding my position. When I compare it to M1 0W-40 oil, as the OP was suggesting, 5w-30 is absolutely cheaper. When I talk about 5w-30 being a good compromise I'm talking about availability. If you live in big cities & have plenty of resources than this is less of an issue to find more options of 5w-20.
EDIT: It appears that the tides have shifted over the last few years & a full synthetic 5w-30 is on par with 0w-40 full synthetic price wise.
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I can agree on the 5w30 bs 0w40. Even Castrol “euro” 5w30 is like $3 more than regular edge 5w30. Sorry that I was so harsh sir
Not to worry, As the oil specifications are getting more strict the quality is going up & the cost differences between weights are no longer spread apart as they once were so you have a good point.
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What about all those engines using ow-20 that made it hundreds of thousands of miles? I even read about 2 of the “million mile club” people used ow-20 since new.
True but what about the countless Hondas at my work that stil spec a 5w20.
Where do you by this miracle ow-20 oil? I’m at almost 1/2 million on my old Sienna, maybe I should start using it?
There is NO meaningful difference between an iron level of 13 and 9 - none - zip - zilch - and you certainly can not attribute any difference to the oil used. These results are all the same result with absolutely no significant difference whatsoever between these oils. Said another way, it is perfectly plausible you'd get the exact same differences in wear metals running the exact same oil in all three OCIs. There is no negative long term effect from running 0W20 compared to 5W30 based on this UOA.
Wear metals from these types of UAOs are only good for determining if the engine has some sort of mechanical problem and can not be used to assess whether or not an oil did or didn't do a better job preventing wear.
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Is 0W40 an approved oil grade for this engine ? If so , great oil - if not then M1 5W30 for a 6K OCI (which also makes a easy reminder milage for tire rotation) .
The engine was 4 years newer with only 20,000 miles in the clock, so that comparison isn’t exactly hand in hand.
I don’t know why people always bring up this comparison. Driving conditions change. Driving styles change. Heck, even oil specifications could change in that time frame 
(was using SN and now SP) 
Engine wear from running the water like Lube hasn’t caught up yet.
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They don't have approved oil grades. So, my 0w40 AND your 5w30 recommendation are not 'approved' grades.
They have recommended grades. They have required oil intervals for warranty compliance and a "maintenance required" section in the owners manual, and a separate warranty and maintenance guide booklet.
Toyota states often enough "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions" but don't define 'high' or 'extreme . Highways here are high speeds, and extreme load for any vehicle which could be when there is more than 1 person in it, since the roads are filled with driver only commuters all the time.
Latest report. Trying to get a good trend going. Sample taken cold. Fe dropped quite a bit which is good. This is with standard M1 5W-30. I switched M1 0W-40 FS for S&G from this change and will do another analysis. I may switch back depending on how it goes.
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