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I’m glad you clarified that. I have been under the impression the whole time that the “FS” was an acronym for “Full Synthetic”
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Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum NOACK values
- Thread starter Gokhan
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In case you're wondering, full-SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur) means the maximal content of the additive pack (detergent–dispersant–inhibitor (DDI) pack)—in particular about 50% more detergent than that of typical oil and about 50% more ZDDP. You get potentially longer drains and more wear protection at the expense of potentially compromising the life of the catalytic converter, oxygen sensor, particulate filter, intake valves in GDI engines, etc.
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Yeah you’re a mind reader I was wondering.
So maybe better to avoid this particular oil if you have a smog coming up in the near future ha?
No, I wouldn't worry about it.
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I couple weeks ago you mentioned for me to get the best Fram oil filter as I perform the restore with VPBR for the 10K OCI.
so my question is about the Fram Filter you mentioned for me to get Fram XG3600 my engine 2AZ-FE calls for the Fram XG4967 here is a pic of the two filters side by side. They are clearly different diameter. You’re not suggesting that I try this larger diameter Fram filter XG3600 are you?
here is a pic of the two filters side by side.
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No. If you’re burning so much oil that the catalyst efficiency is degraded it won’t reverse itself in the near future.
Yes, the Fram Ultra XG3600 will fit more than perfectly if there is enough clearance! I used it on my 1985 Corolla, which normally takes the diminutive Toyota 90915-YZZF2/90915-YZZN1. If there is not enough clearance, use the Fram Ultra XG3614.
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Sorry for the stupid question but what do you mean by clearance? How would I check that?
He's referring to anything that might prevent you from mounting a longer filter. Crossmember, firewall, etc.
If you can manage to get the oil filter in there and screw it on (and off), there is enough physical clearance. The XG3600 is primarily oversized in height. It's not the largest filter out there. There is also the XG8A with the same thread and similar gasket diameter, which looks like a large jar, but you probably wouldn't be able come close to squeeze it in there.
Again, I used the XG3600 in a 1985 Corolla and people have used it in various Toyota cars, including the Prius, Camry, etc.
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Just out of curiosity I have used Castrol’s 0W-40 European formula in my BMW in the past. Is that basically an equivalent to the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 in terms of effectiveness to clean an engine?
and also are these high detergent oils any more likely than other synthetic oils to cause oil leaks? I ask because I went ahead and for the first time used Castrol 0W-40 Euro in my 07 Highlander for the first time 3 months ago and within a couple weeks of using that oil the Highlander started leaking oil. It’s first oil leak since we own this car. We bought it new back in 07.
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Yes, Castrol 0W-40 A3/B4 is a great full-SAPS oil, similar to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 A3/B4. However, in your case stick with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 A3/B4.
Why? First of all Castrol 0W-40 A3/B4 does not contain any Group V polyol ester (POE) as far as I know and will not remove your carbon deposits. Secondly since Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 has POE, it will swell your seals and prevent any leaks. Castrol 0W-40 A3/B4 has PAO, which shrinks seals. Since it doesn't have POE, the net effect could be some seal shrinkage if the other types of seal swellers they added in the formulation are not in sufficient quantity; so, the net effect can be a small amount of seal shrinkage, which may lead to leaks in older cars. I don't know if that will happen for sure, but stick with the POE-containing, seal-swelling Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 to be sure.
Lastly the detergents won't harm seals but they probably won't help remove carbon deposits either. You need a solvent like a highly polar ester—for example a polyol ester (POE).
Rubbish, the Castrol product would be perfectly acceptable for seal compatibility, it has years of testing behind it. Plus you really have no idea how either product is made, guessing based on google searches and press releases is not the same as being a chemist on the development team.
Again, I said that I didn't know the seal-compatibility bench-test numbers for Castrol 0W-40 A3/B4 (and for Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 A3/B4 either), but I was making a general statement about POE, PAO, seal-swelling, and to be safe rather than sorry. The industry and OEMs allows a wide range of numbers, and some oils will shrink the seals a little while some others expand them.
No, Castrol 0W-40 A3/B4 does not contain any significant amount of POE according to the Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy data. Oxidation in Russian is окисление, and any oxidation number less than 10 means practically no POE.
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/29557-castrol-edge-titanium-fst-0w-40-svezhee-tara-300716/
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/20079-castrol-edge-titanium-fst-0w-40-svezhee/
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/37820-castrol-edge-supercar 0w-40-a3b4-свежее/
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so do you think if I put some of this Mobil 1 FS 0w40 I have a decent chance of stopping the oil leak in this 07 3.3L V6 Highlander?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
COMPLETELY anecdotal, so take this for what it's worth, but when I bought my M5, the valve cover gasket (or gaskets) was weeping on the exhaust ever so slightly, resulting in a periodic whiff of burnt oil. When I got it, the oil used had been BMW-branded 5w-30 (LL-01). Once I switched the car over to M1 0w-40 that leak disappeared and never returned over the 4 years I owned it.
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You won't know unless you try it.
You can also try Mobil 1 High-Mileage oils. They do not contain POE but they do contain alkylated naphthalene (AN), possibly in a higher amount than in the other non-Euro Mobil 1 oils, which also contain AN but not POE. Euro Mobil 1 oils contain POE but not AN. AN also expands seals and remove carbon deposits, albeit not as effectively as POE. However, the actual amount of AN in these oils is not known; so, there is no easy way to compare the Mobil 1 High-Mileage oils to Mobil 1 Euro oils in seal-swelling and carbon removal, other than through anecdotes.
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Thanks for sharing that. Stories like that really gives hope
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You refered me to sciontc_mich a while back and he found that Castrol Magnetic to be a really great oil. It stopped his own Scion tC’s 2.4L oil consumption issues because of the low Noack rating. He said that anything under 13% seem to not burn nearly as much. That this particular generation 2.4L engine was designed to run hotter in an effort to prevent engine sludge. It sounds to be like just a different approach if I’m not mistaking. You’re suggesting cleaning the carbon form the piston rings and drain holes so that the oil flows better and I understand it he is saying to just use a lower Noack oil so that it just doesn’t burn as much or any oil. At least that’s what I made out of it. Are you familiar with this oil? What’s your thoughts? Does this oil have seal sweller (AN) as well? Any POE in it?
You are way too much worried about your engine and the oil, and at the end of the day, the oil will probably make little difference in remedying your engine's problems if at all. We've now started going in circles.
No, and I don't believe what sciontc_mich claimed at all. In a healthy engine, evaporation only accounts for 30% of oil consumption. In an engine that consumes a lot of oil, it would be much less. See the article linked in this post:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pp-0w20-sp-gf-6-pds.327066/#post-5433553
No, and I don't believe what sciontc_mich claimed at all. In a healthy engine, evaporation only accounts for 30% of oil consumption. In an engine that consumes a lot of oil, it would be much less. See the article linked in this post:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pp-0w20-sp-gf-6-pds.327066/#post-5433553
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