Optimal kinematic viscosity for mimimal wear?

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Originally Posted By: peterdes
. . .

My father just purchased a Cessna 400 this month. He took me to the hanger tonight to show me the plane. I found 1 quart of oil in the "trunk" of the plane. Exxon 20w50. Then it hit me.
All of the high-performance and heavy-load engines I have seen or researched use a higher weight oil. I'm sure there is a reason for this.

This is the engine it has

"TCM TSIO-550-C six-cylinder, fuel-injected, twin turbocharged engine with dual intercoolers, the Cessna 400 boasts a max cruise speed of 235 knots (435 km/hr) and a range of 1,250 nautical miles (2,315 km) at economy cruise speeds. So you'll cruise higher in one of the world's fastest single-pistons in the sky."

Exxon 20w50

Peter: You can't deny the facts either, and you've overlooked several important ones. First, aviation piston engines are hardly comparable to car or light truck engines. First, the vast majority (apart from a few rare oddballs and experimentals) are air-cooled. Next, unlike automobile engines, aircraft engines are run at high throttle settings for extended periods of time. These facts alone make these engines much more akin to an air-cooled Porsche used only for racing. Different bearings, different clearances, different operational pattern. Not a good comparison on this basis alone.

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I know you thin oil guys will call me ignorant and not knowledgeable, But.

I don't see a reason to use a lightweight oil unless you live in rigid cold weather. Do you guys really think you know more than the top engineers who design and test these (heavy-duty/high-performance) engines?!
What reason is there NOT to use them? All the anti-thin "Chicken Littles" have been claiming that the sky is falling and our engines will soon be dying from 20 wt oils -- for well over eight years now. And still no mass destructions in sight.

And the counter-question for you is this: do you think you know more than the engineers at Honda, Ford, Toyota, Chrysler, and so on. You don't think they all very carefully considered the move to 20 wt oils? Of course they did.

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Yeah, your toyota camry and ford focus say to use a 5w20. At the same time I turn my head to the tv and see a commercial of the camry boasting how it gets 1 mpg more than its competitor. Add in CAFE and it is obvious these low weight/low friction oils are just to squeeze out that extra MPG.
So??? Quite predictably, car makers are doing all they can to improve fuel economy, both for legal and sales reasons. It simply does not follow from that that the oils they recommend are not up to the task of protecting the engines for which they are recommended.

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Some will say, "yeah Ford/Toyota have top engineers too and they know what is best for the engine!" Yep, they sure do have good engineers. But do you honestly think their goal is to spec an engine oil for the protection of the engine? [censored] no. They just care about sales, and right now, MPG sells.
That's illogical too. OTR truckers have a lot more to gain and lose as the price of fuel swings back and forth. If selling fuel economy was the only thing engineers cared about, they'd be pushing 0w-10 oils for long-haul truckers. Buy they're not -- instead, they recommend the oils they feel are best for that application. And again, over eight years in to the 20 wt oil era, and still no sign of a general problem. If 20s weren't up to the task, we'd already be in the middle of a scandal, turbocharged by the internet, that would make the Toyota sludge thing look like child's play.

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I'm not saying your engine is going to [censored] out if you use 0w20. Because, well, they don't. They oil is "suitable." But, is it providing the best protection? I doubt it.

Well, allow me to address those doubts. Here is an array of links to 20 wt UOAs on our forum. Ten from the earliest days, and ten very recent ones. I posted this earlier, and will keep recycling it...
wink.gif
Shows a pattern of great protection. I invite one of you doubters to assemble a comparable array that shows 20s not living up to the task.
Ancient 20 wt UOAs from BITOG:

Old 20 UOA-1
Old 20 UOA-2
Old 20 UOA-3
Old 20 UOA-4
Old 20 UOA-5
Old 20 UOA-6
Old 20 UOA-7
Old 20 UOA-8
Old 20 UOA-9
Old 20 UOA-10

And the newest ten:

New 20 UOA-1
New 20 UOA-2
New 20 UOA-3
New 20 UOA-4
New 20 UOA-5
New 20 UOA-6
New 20 UOA-7
New 20 UOA-8
New 20 UOA-9
New 20 UOA-10

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Your car may not tell the difference between 0w20 and 15w50. But that isn't the point.
Isn't this exactly the point? If the engine can not "tell the difference", that is, it is protected just as well with the 20, then why not use the 20, and enjoy the lower fuel burn?

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If the 0w20 provided better protection and was a "better" oil, if temperature permits, then these high-load/high-performance engines would spec an oil on the thin side of the scale. They would spec 0w10 or 0w5. But they don't. They spec an oil on the heavy side of the scale, 15w50's and 20w50s. You can't deny the "facts."
wink.gif

Interesting and telling that you put "better" in quotes. This reflects the basic flaw in these "thick is better" arguments. Thick is not better. Thick is thick. And thin is thin. Period. The unstated assumption is that engines are really all the same, and it's up to the humans to use a "better" oil, not a "worse" one.

Newsflash: use the oil that's appropriate to your application, because they're not all the same. Using a 20 wt oil in an old worn air-cooled Porsche that's driven hard would be foolish. The same characteristic of the oil that provides a fuel economy benefit would cause other issues, such as consumption, and if the clearances are worn enough, perhaps an oil pressure issue as the pump would be unlikely to be able to keep pressure up. On the other hand, using a 20w-50 in a new Toyota or Honda engine that will simply never, ever create the conditions which might actually call for a thick oil wastes fuel, and invites problems with cold engine flow. BGN points out that OP rises quickly on start, but overlooks that there's more to that story (were there not, you could just run 20w-50 in North Dakota in the winter -- would you do that?)
 
This is my last post here as this thread doesn't go anywhere and it's all about hearsay. Yet, some posters could learn simple facts from science if they chose to listen.

Here is evidence that low viscosity lubricants increase wear in taxi fleet:
http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/922342

Here is evidence that low viscosity lubricants are OK with nominal oil temp but increase wear in increased oil temps:
http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/932782

So, this discussion about viscosity in cst is pointless as all it matters is HTHS and oil temperature.

The part about corrosion with synthetic oils is my speculation. I only said maybe, based on numerous rumors I've heard. However, we know well that group V esters are hygroscopic.
 
What am I missing
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There results were used to design a field test of nine oils in 45 taxicabs in New York City. The test oils (SAE 0W-20 to 20W-20) were formulated to measure the effects of viscosity, viscosity index improver, and detergent inhibitor package.
Bearing wear tended to be either low and unremarkable or very high, particularly in the thrust bearings. Oil performance was best expressed as the frequency of excessive wear,


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Here is evidence that low viscosity lubricants are OK with nominal oil temp but increase wear in increased oil temps:


..and this still assumed the invariably default disposition that you challenge HTHS temps on some routine basis. Suppose you NEVER DO? Suppose you never deviate from 110C bulk/sump temps and NEVER EVER hit 130C at any point in the engine?

I get the same thing when I try and talk to turbo jocks about getting LESS boost. They just can't have that enter their head.
 
JAG, that's an interesting link from Shell Global Soln's.

In particular, I liked the chart comparing the fuel consumption efficiency of a 0W-20 (100C vis 7.94 cSt) and a 0W-30 (100C vis 10.48 cSt) motor oil at 20C and 75C.
At 20C the 20 wt was about 1.8% more efficient but that dropped to 1% at 75C (not sure why they didn't show 100C).

Ekpolk you should like that. I basically supports the significantly higher gas mileage you got when you switched from GC (12.1 cSt) to PP (8.4 cSt).

I found the chart interesting as well because in every car I've ever installed an oil temp gauge, I've always been surprised by the amount of running time is actually spent below the theoretical optimum 100C; like 99% of the time. 180F (82C) is a much more typical operating temp. So that light 20 wt oil you think you have in the sump has an operational vis closer to a 40 wt oil using the Widman chart.

One thing I'd like to know is, where can I get this 0W-20 presumably Shell oil with the low vis of 7.94 cSt?
 
and all of the above is why, even in summer, i plug my car in, and i have installed: block heater x2 (yes, 2 block heaters), and oil pan heater x 1. 950 watts of electricity get turned on 2 hours prior to use, meaning about 15 cents of electricity, to save about 50 cents of fuel while it warms up, NO condesation, no acids, no worries about oil being like honey, and no wear at start up. I run 5w30 oil, with one part 20weight in winter, 3 parts 30 weight, and in summer 1 part 10w30, 3 parts 5w30.
 
I will bet you get startup wear because the pistons aren't round untill you get the metals to operating temps .So more clearance more wear. And the oil isn't circulating. The only startup wear to worry about is when the wrong visc oil is used for the temps that the car starts up in. Think of sucking a thick milkshake through a straw. Takes a long time no?. So there is enough oil on the parts to keep them lubed untill the oil circulates . For example Straight 30 reaches the oil pump fast enough at 40*f to have no concern but a 0*F there will be a concern because the oil will take too long to reach the oil pump so the engine could be runnung without enough lube for a while.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Thicker oil increases the chances and frequency of metal to metal contact at cold start up. No flow = not optimal.
It depends upon the temps and the oils viscosity in simple terms.
 
People are either too young or forget when you used to crank a carb'd engine up in sub freezing weather and have it stall 3 times before establishing enough oil pressure to remain running.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN

I can't see the reasoning running the thinnest oil you can get away with just for a barely measurable fuel economy increase. You take away a lot of the safety cushion for pennies.

Whether you want to admit it or not, a thicker oil reduces the chances and frequency of metal to metal contact period. I've seen it first hand many times from my own engines. But of course this doesn't matter. Only theory matters.


Yep, that is all they have supporting their claims. Theory and UOAs. What a laugh. I think people forget what true science and Facts are. They are what is observable in the Real world. If they are not, they are just theory's and guesses. The only supporting evidence that some can gather for the case of 0w20 (or very thin oils) are pointless UOAs. That just isn't enough, and are very weak supporting facts.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Thicker oil increases the chances and frequency of metal to metal contact at cold start up. No flow = not optimal.


No flow???????? Where do you come up with this?

That would be like me saying your engine runs metal to metal all the time with a 20wt.

This whole startup wear thing (initial start, not warmup) is obscenely overblown.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
People are either too young or forget when you used to crank a carb'd engine up in sub freezing weather and have it stall 3 times before establishing enough oil pressure to remain running.


I think that was due to the fact that it has a carb, not the oil. I'm all for running the correct viscosity for the temp. If I lived in Canada my car would have a 0w-20 in it.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
I will bet you get startup wear because the pistons aren't round untill you get the metals to operating temps .So more clearance more wear. And the oil isn't circulating. The only startup wear to worry about is when the wrong visc oil is used for the temps that the car starts up in. Think of sucking a thick milkshake through a straw. Takes a long time no?. So there is enough oil on the parts to keep them lubed untill the oil circulates . For example Straight 30 reaches the oil pump fast enough at 40*f to have no concern but a 0*F there will be a concern because the oil will take too long to reach the oil pump so the engine could be runnung without enough lube for a while.


Exactly. I see no problem or real difference in startup protection between a 20wt or 40wt as long as the 40wt is acceptable for the temperature. If you go out of that range, of course there will be problems.
 
I'm embarrassed to admit I remember.
Talking about carb's, a couple of neat things about going with lower vis oils. My Caterham has a pair of Weber 45 DCOE carbs. When I went from 5W-50 to 5W-40 I had to turn down the engine idle.
And again when I dropped to 0W-30 and again when I switched to 0W-20 although not as much.
But a big bonus to me with the 0W-20 is that engine will now idle almost immediately after starting (there are no chokes) without my foot on the throttle. With the 50 wt it would take almost 5 minutes of running before it would idle.
 
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
and all of the above is why, even in summer, i plug my car in, and i have installed: block heater x2 (yes, 2 block heaters), and oil pan heater x 1. 950 watts of electricity get turned on 2 hours prior to use, meaning about 15 cents of electricity, to save about 50 cents of fuel while it warms up, NO condesation, no acids, no worries about oil being like honey, and no wear at start up. I run 5w30 oil, with one part 20weight in winter, 3 parts 30 weight, and in summer 1 part 10w30, 3 parts 5w30.

Obvious overkill, but a nice plan nevertheless. Sorta let's you have your cake and eat it too.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
This is my last post here as this thread doesn't go anywhere and it's all about hearsay. Yet, some posters could learn simple facts from science if they chose to listen.

Here is evidence that low viscosity lubricants increase wear in taxi fleet:
http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/922342

Here is evidence that low viscosity lubricants are OK with nominal oil temp but increase wear in increased oil temps:
http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/932782

So, this discussion about viscosity in cst is pointless as all it matters is HTHS and oil temperature.

The part about corrosion with synthetic oils is my speculation. I only said maybe, based on numerous rumors I've heard. However, we know well that group V esters are hygroscopic.

Whether you post again here is entirely at your discretion.

This post is highly reflective of one of the most disturbing trends I see here -- the tendency to latch onto small data points, and generalize hugely from there. As for the rest, see Gary's post, above. His points are very well taken; no need for me to restate them.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I'm embarrassed to admit I remember.
Talking about carb's, a couple of neat things about going with lower vis oils. My Caterham has a pair of Weber 45 DCOE carbs. When I went from 5W-50 to 5W-40 I had to turn down the engine idle.
And again when I dropped to 0W-30 and again when I switched to 0W-20 although not as much.
But a big bonus to me with the 0W-20 is that engine will now idle almost immediately after starting (there are no chokes) without my foot on the throttle. With the 50 wt it would take almost 5 minutes of running before it would idle.


I don't doubt your results at all, especially with a carb. But think about this for a second, how much hp do you think it takes to idle the engine? I've heard around 5hp for an average 4 cylinder. So if the oil frees up 1hp when cold, you're going to see it as a higher idle. IMO, it doesn't mean that much other than you're going to get better mileage during the warmup process. The only point I really have is that a higher idle doesn't mean you're freeing up much at all.

I forgot, I've always liked your cars. A friend of mine has a 928 GTS. Very fun car. Do you ever race them?
 
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Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
What am I missing
54.gif




Here is what you missed at the bottom at the page (attention deficit?)

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There were many instances of very high wear in cabs operated with the lowest viscosity oils but none in cabs with higher viscosity oils. Non-Newtonian oils appeared to provide slightly more protection than Newtonian oils of the same HTHS viscosity, and a higher quality adpack also appeared to provide benefits. However, these factors were secondary to the viscosity of the oil. HTHS viscosity was a better predictor of bearing wear performance than oil film thickness.


Over and out.
 
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
That aircraft and over the road trucks are operrated at near maximum output of the engines. You may not like your economy oif you extractred 80% or more of your capable power out of your personal conveyance.
Even my jeep spends 95% time at light load with small burst of high load. I can see how you came to your concluskion but I disagree on it based on duty cyles of the example engines.

Next time you are on the road try to time the percentage of time you have the trottle to the floor and report that as a percentage of time on the road. it shouldn't be much.
I don't think over the road trucks are operated at near maximum loads. The good drivers even when going up hills gear for minimum load on the engine otherwise the turbos will get too hot.
 
Originally Posted By: peterdes
Originally Posted By: BuickGN

I can't see the reasoning running the thinnest oil you can get away with just for a barely measurable fuel economy increase. You take away a lot of the safety cushion for pennies.

Whether you want to admit it or not, a thicker oil reduces the chances and frequency of metal to metal contact period. I've seen it first hand many times from my own engines. But of course this doesn't matter. Only theory matters.


Yep, that is all they have supporting their claims. Theory and UOAs. What a laugh. I think people forget what true science and Facts are. They are what is observable in the Real world. If they are not, they are just theory's and guesses. The only supporting evidence that some can gather for the case of 0w20 (or very thin oils) are pointless UOAs. That just isn't enough, and are very weak supporting facts.


Careful Pete, that's all you have -- theory and guesses. You keep preaching the "evils" of "thin" oils, while willfully blinding yourself to the clearest FACT of all -- that millions, yes millions of motor vehicles have been running quite happily, with no damage, for almost TEN FREAKIN' YEARS on these "evil, thin" oils. And they're just NOT having a problem. So your claim that,
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The only supporting evidence that some can gather for the case of 0w20 (or very thin oils) are pointless UOAs
, is just plain dead wrong.

Pointless UOA? Gee Peter, how 'bout a little consistency here. Here is where you posted your own "pointless?" UOA, and here is where you endorse the results of another. You "poo-poo" UOA because, in fact, you can't find a single, solitary one that supports what you claim about "thin" oils.

Among other things, UOA, even inexpensive ones, show values for wear metals. OF COURSE, they are not conclusive, and all-revealing, but I do find it funny how members of the thick crowd run from them, declaring them "pointless" when again -- ooops -- they absolutely do NOT support your theories about terrible thin oils.

You rely upon statements like this:
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Whether you want to admit it or not, a thicker oil reduces the chances and frequency of metal to metal contact period. I've seen it first hand many times from my own engines
, but with no specifics at all. So, show me an engine meant to use high-efficiency oils that has actually suffered from their use. Don't worry, I won't hold my breath. . .
smirk2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
. . .

Over and out.


Sorry, but cutting and running doesn't support your argument. To the contrary, it tends to demonstrate that one is, in fact, out of ideas. . .
 
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