old oil from one engine into another?

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Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
The oil turning black doesn't indicate that it's holding an inordinate amount of "dirt" or particulates; it's chemistry, and the color, IMO, is a product of so many things that's it's unreliable as an idicator. If you've got something to counter with, please do. Sarcastic questions don't really get us anywhere.
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What's the difference between him running an oil in the old truck with its own contaminants in suspension and the contaminants from another, newer, cleaner engine? If the truck came back with wear, TBN, TAN and all other attributes indicating that the change interval could be extended, then what's to say that those same indications in an oil from his newer car wouldn't mean that it woud be safe to run it in the truck's sump?


There are additives in oil to surround and hold particles (products of combustion) in suspension. Those particles can easily fall out of a still solution as they are not soluble in the oil itself. Its just basic chemistry, not everything in used oil is wear metals and additives.


Those soluble particles are neutralized and, IMO, wouldn't hamper the oil's ability to do its job for another few thousand miles in an old truck. The point is, the soluble particles are just that, soluble. If there were chunks floating around, they'd be transported to the filter.

My argument still stands: what's the diff between him running the oil longer in the car - the car he would extend his interval on if it weren't for the warranty - and finishing that interval in the truck? In other words, if 3kmi more in his car was justifiable by UOA, then why wouldn't dumping that used oil into his truck for 3kmi be acceptable?

pfft snobs.
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Originally Posted By: gathermewool

Those soluble particles are neutralized and, IMO, wouldn't hamper the oil's ability to do its job for another few thousand miles in an old truck. The point is, the soluble particles are just that, soluble. If there were chunks floating around, they'd be transported to the filter.


Its been a while since your last chemistry class huh? If the particles were soluble you would not need detergents and dispersants.

I actually have no idea what we are arguing about I believe it was that you did not believe solids could settle out of used oil.
 
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Redline is not an extended oil like Amsoil SSO, 15k km may be near the end of it, I would not use it in anything for more than 5-6k km even after filtering.
 
Since the OP did not specify that his transfer truck was an oil burner, I would go with SilverC6's post. The cost of fresh oil for your truck is pretty minimal if it is not burning an inordinate amount, better to give your truck fresh oil with a complete additive package.
 
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Originally Posted By: gathermewool

Those soluble particles are neutralized and, IMO, wouldn't hamper the oil's ability to do its job for another few thousand miles in an old truck. The point is, the soluble particles are just that, soluble. If there were chunks floating around, they'd be transported to the filter.


Its been a while since your last chemistry class huh? If the particles were soluble you would not need detergents and dispersants.

I actually have no idea what we are arguing about I believe it was that you did not believe solids could settle out of used oil.


Haha. I didn't realize we were arguing. I thought the object of this board was to discuss. I save my arguing for youtube! Haha Your sarcasm was appreciated, though.

Just because something is dissolved in solution doesn't mean it won't precipitate out. Stir up some cocoa and see how long it takes for the "dirt" to precipitate out as you make it more and more chocolatey. Who needs chemistry class when I've got a ice cold glass of Ovaltine right here? :p

That wasn't really my point, though - I think I had one! Haha Ah yes, it's still that there is no difference between the OP saying he'd run it longer in his car, if not for warranty concerns, and taking it out of the car early, but still getting max use out of by using it in the truck.
 
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Originally Posted By: lipadj46
There was the mobil 2 guy too. Perfectly acceptable use of used oil


Well I'm the Mobil 2 guy. In the 90s for several years I gave my 10K M1 to a fellow worker that he used in his late 70s Chevy Caprice. He would often complain of lifter clatter on cold mornings. I told him to try M1 oil, but he said the price was too steep for that old car. I joked that he could have my used M1, and to my suprise he took it. For 4-5 years he used my 10K M1 with a filter change twice a year. He drove 20 miles each way to work(the car was his work car). When he needed oil from me he would say" got any Mobil 2". He finally sold the Chevy, but the engine still ran great and never had lifter clatter again after switching to my Mobil 2.
 
It doesn't sound like a good idea, but, honestly, I'd imagine that Redline 10W-40 with 9k miles on it still has lots of life left, especially for an old vehicle that doesn't really matter.

I'd roughly 'filter it' before dumping it in, though.
 
What just occurred to me is all the guys here who are adding 2 cycle oil or MMO to their gasoline as a lube could probably get the same result by withholding a quart of two of their used oil and introducing it into the fuel just as they do MMO or the 2 cycle oil.

Doing that, using it in a mower or an oil burning/leaking vehicle would be about the limit of my willingness to re-use oil.
 
I've "recycled" used oil coming outta my 07 Honda Civic Si after 3,000 miles into a 96 Accord without filtering and didn't have any issues. Been doing it for a while and even posted a UOA on it.

It was M1 EP after 3k in my Si and then i ran it in my neighbors Accord for another 3k with fantastic results.

Why waste perfectly good Synthetic.

I currently have a fill of Amsoil ASL 5w-30 in a 05 Accord 2.4L after 4k from my Si.
I told the owner to come back in 4k so 8k total on the oil between 2 cars...

Oh! and i'm reusing the Hamp oil filter outta the Si as well (Honda aftermarket equivalent)

He's still racking up the miles, so it might be a while since he doesn't take any road trips.
 
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If one had a pampered car and a beater car, I could see it happening and working out fine. The pampered car might see OC's that were way too short for the chosen oil and you could actually run it to "full" interval (i.e. using all of the TBN) on the beater. Ditto if the beater consumes a lot of oil.

First, I don't consider 15,000km a short interval. Maybe you could use it in yard equipment or something, but I wouldn't put it in another car.

@Artem: doing 3k + 3k on M1 EP - you could probably double both user's intervals and be more than OK (and still pampering your SI even at that). You're going to spend more on M1 than you did on the car by the time you're done with it.
 
Craig, M1 EP here in the states can be had for $28 for a 5q jug. That comes out to $5.60 per quart + tax.

At that price (vs $8.49 at auto stores) i can afford to THROW AWAY the oil after 2,500 miles and it won't hurt the wallet as much.

I started recycling oil using the method i choose because i wanted to see how much life was left in the oil coming from my Si, which gets driven HAAAARD.

Instead of running it up to 5-8k in my Si and testing it that way, i decided to put it into a beater and have that engine take the risk (this was right after coming off the 3k rule)

Using a very clean pan and being VERY careful not to contaminate the oil, i did the procedure.

When the UOA came back saying all is well and to go 7k next time, that was proof to me that the oil can withstand the punishment i put on it with my modified Si.

I became an Amsoil PC and tried the same routine again but this time going further and using a newer car with a similar engine (the 05 Accord has a 2.4L K series engine)

My neighbor is currently at 6.5k on Amsoil ASL and reports good gas mileage (i've been using regular dino oil on his car so far)

@8k i'll send a sample without draining the sump and see if the oil can keep going. Should be interesting.
 
Marine oil gets changed by time, so I pitch name brand HDEO that has less than 10 hours on it. I know what went into my customer's boats because I changed it last year.

Using an oil change pump ensures sanitary transfer if I wanted to do it. I could make a beater owner very happy.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem


I started recycling oil using the method i choose because i wanted to see how much life was left in the oil coming from my Si, which gets driven HAAAARD.


What do you think is being depleted in the M1 ESP by driving it "HAAAARD"? Shearing is probably the only thing to be worried about and if UOAs are showing there isn't any, then why dump it so quickly?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd use old oil in a beater that burnt oil for top up. I would not add it to fill a sump after an oil change. After 15,000 kms I'd say most oils would be pretty dirty and used up. I'd pass.


+1

I used to top-off our fogger Saturn with old oil from the Windstar. But nothing would stay in that sump long, in either car.

For a normal running engine I would not do it.
 
I had an old Toyota 20R with the all too common leaky front seal.

I almost never bought oil for it in between changes. My friend in high school had a Fairmont turbo and would use Valvoline TurboV about every 2000 miles. I just used his nice dark amber waste oil to top off.
 
I see no issue with putting lightly used oil from one car into another. I put ~800 miles in 1 year on the PP I had in my '09 Pontiac G8 GT so when I did my most recent oil change @ ~1400 miles, I transferred that PP into our '01 Olds Intrigue (w/ 123K miles) when I did its oil change recently. Everything's working fine, no oil burning issues or other problems to report...
 
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Originally Posted By: Artem


I started recycling oil using the method i choose because i wanted to see how much life was left in the oil coming from my Si, which gets driven HAAAARD.


What do you think is being depleted in the M1 ESP by driving it "HAAAARD"? Shearing is probably the only thing to be worried about and if UOAs are showing there isn't any, then why dump it so quickly?


It gives me that warm fuzzy feeling inside, knowing my baby has top of the line oil at all times. I'd honestly change it every 1,000 miles with Redline oil if i was crazy enough but since this isn't a Ferrari, i'll stick with the semi anal 3k OCIs i've been doing for the past 80,000 miles since i bought the car new in 2007.

I dumped the FF @ 1k for Valvoline high mileage (lots of Moly)

Then dumped that @ 2k for a Synth blend

and @ 3k went to full synthetic (any random brand that was on sale at the time of OCI

This car gets babied on maintenance but gets abused daily on the street/track (time attack)
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
It gives me that warm fuzzy feeling inside, knowing my baby has top of the line oil at all times. I'd honestly change it every 1,000 miles with Redline oil if i was crazy enough but since this isn't a Ferrari, i'll stick with the semi anal 3k OCIs i've been doing for the past 80,000 miles since i bought the car new in 2007.

I dumped the FF @ 1k for Valvoline high mileage (lots of Moly)

Then dumped that @ 2k for a Synth blend

and @ 3k went to full synthetic (any random brand that was on sale at the time of OCI

This car gets babied on maintenance but gets abused daily on the street/track (time attack)



Since thats true, new oil for you.
 
Originally Posted By: Blokey
I see no issue with putting lightly used oil from one car into another. I put ~800 miles in 1 year on the PP I had in my '09 Pontiac G8 GT so when I did my most recent oil change @ ~1400 miles, I transferred that PP into our '01 Olds Intrigue (w/ 123K miles) when I did its oil change recently. Everything's working fine, no oil burning issues or other problems to report...


Well i charge my neighbors for oil changes. Since i'm reusing my Expensive synthetic oil into their car, they basically pay for half of MY oil change. It might seem wrong to some, but in my opinion, they're getting perfectly good used synthetic oil at a fraction of the cost anyway (i charge $25 to dump my old juice into their car) (i'm now re-using Amsoil ASL and SSO)

They would have their cars serviced at fast lube places and i personally noted that the oil filter was NOT changed half the time.

the fast lube place would recommend 3k OCI but run the oil filter for 6k.

EXAMPLE:

I changed their oil with my recycled synthetic and reused my HAMP oil filter. I couldn't do the oil change once so they went back to jiffy lube or wherever it was...

The next time i go to change the oil, guess what...? My Freakin HAMP oil filter is still on there!! they changed the oil but decided to save a few bucks when they saw my shiny HAMP oil filter on there and figured it could go another 3k, no problem
 
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