Reviving a 71 C10! Curious about suitable oils.

[nascarnation]

Sometimes you never know about these vintage motors. My 67 Chevy 250 six had 39,000 miles (validated by decades of records) and the cylinder bores were worn 12 thousandths oversize but the pistons, bearings, cam and lifters looked perfect. I think the foundry got the alloy mix wrong on that day LOL.

The rebuild seems to run fine on Pennzoil Platinum 5W30.

 

[CheezWhiz]

I have decided on M1 0w-40 Euro for everything- a 6.0 iron block non-afm LS, two flat tappets (4.0 jeep and 396 chevy) and a hyd roller Pontiac V8. Just one bag in a box on the shelf instead of several half-empty jugs.

 

[ka9mnx]

I thought that about my 85 F150's 300 I6, too, but right around the time zinc additive levels dropped out of oil I lost 1,000rpm on the top end and it developed a weak hole practically overnight. I chalked that up to the cam getting hit hard by the lack of zinc in the oil. Then again that engine was already north of 350k miles at the time and needed 20w50 in the sump to keep the bottom end happy.

Currently, that 300 is due for overhaul. Got it to about 400k miles before 20w50 was not thick enough to keep the rods and mains happy. If I can I'll put roller lifters in it during overhaul.

Your Ford 300 was worn out and doesn't need a high ZN oil. I've been using low ZN oils in my stock (un-opened) 300 for 20 years. No problem with cam wear.

Every 300 I've owned needed rod bearings regardless of mileage (rod knock at start up). Roller lifters are not an option for this engine and not needed.

Two years ago I moved to Euro 5w-40 in everything I own and not looking back. Do some research on ACEA oils and be surprised.

 

[TheRuley]

Pretty well any modern synthetic blend 10w30 will be great for it.

 

[C6 Modellsport]

Pretty well any modern synthetic blend 10w30 will be great for it.

I am still in the 'cleaning the crankcase out so super super frequent changes' phase of my revival but I am thinking this stuff might not be a bad idea. 20 bucks for the box too. Best part I can buy it at walmart alongside my groceries...now if only they carried good filters too no frambombs on my engines!

A recent short trip I did on it after getting it firing on all six. Engine pulls great!

 

[ripcord]

You could happily keep using that Havoline for as long as you keep your truck on the road. Hard to do much better for it.

 

[C6 Modellsport]

You could happily keep using that Havoline for as long as you keep your truck on the road. Hard to do much better for it.

Planis to be my forever daily .I'm the third generation on my dad's sidd to own this truck and the fourth owner overrall. Never been out of the family. Literal heirloom and I plan on keeping it long term!

 

[Rob_Roy]

I am still in the 'cleaning the crankcase out so super super frequent changes' phase of my revival but I am thinking this stuff might not be a bad idea. 20 bucks for the box too.

A 10w-30 High Mileage oil is a good choice, especially at that price and convenience.

Had a 250/glide in my 66 Biscayne. Nice running motor.

You've got to, got to, put an HEI distributer in yours. I used an ebay Chinese whatever for $50 but you could go upmarket. Gapped my plugs wider (0.055?), might have picked up some power and MPG. Dunno because I got it dead, LOL. But it was a great running six. Mixed 87 and 93 to get the original 89 octane.

With the 3-speed you've probably got a range of running RPMs. I'd go with a 5w40 myself just so you get better lubrication when you're cold and winding up for the next gear.

If the original points distributor is still in good shape another option is to add an aftermarket ignition box like MSD 6a or Mallory. Those boxes can often be found used for a reasonable price.

 

[C6 Modellsport]

A 10w-30 High Mileage oil is a good choice, especially at that price and convenience.



If the original points distributor is still in good shape another option is to add an aftermarket ignition box like MSD 6a or Mallory. Those boxes can often be found used for a reasonable price.

Now if only WM stocked WIX filters. Alas, only choices...motorcraft, acdelco, frambombs, and inhouse. And I doubt they have a filter that fits my engine.

As for the ignition...the points ignition is working without flaw so I am happy to run it. Dont understand people's aversion to points ignition...ya'll act like it's a serial murderer or somethin but I dont see why first hand.

 

[ripcord]

Now if only WM stocked WIX filters. Alas, only choices...motorcraft, acdelco, frambombs, and inhouse. And I doubt they have a filter that fits my engine.

As for the ignition...the points ignition is working without flaw so I am happy to run it. Dont understand people's aversion to points ignition...ya'll act like it's a serial murderer or somethin but I dont see why first hand.

The main problem with points these days is the difficulty of finding decent quality parts. Gone are the days when you could buy a set of made in USA AC Delco points that would last 15 to 20k miles. You now have to choose between made in China... or made in China.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Guys If you ever go HEI or performance hall effect trigger and the appropriate coil - be sure bypass the KEY-RUN resistor wire. KEY-START feeds BATT+(12v) from the starter solenoid back up to the COIL+ terminal only when cranking. That why you see two wires on the COIL+

I would leave this truck with factory points ignition, but it is hard to get good points sometimes.
Don't forget to clean and lube the distributor cam and have that oiling felt installed

- Arco

 

[C6 Modellsport]

The main problem with points these days is the difficulty of finding decent quality parts. Gone are the days when you could buy a set of made in USA AC Delco points that would last 15 to 20k miles. You now have to choose between made in China... or made in China.

Part of my 5k PM service will be inspect and adjust points. They're 2 bucks a box. And I have a dwell tach. We will see how long these china points can live . Also super easy to change on roadside if necessary.

 

[C6 Modellsport]

Guys If you ever go HEI or performance hall effect trigger and the appropriate coil - be sure bypass the KEY-RUN resistor wire. KEY-START feeds BATT+(12v) from the starter solenoid back up to the COIL+ terminal only when cranking. That why you see two wires on the COIL+

I would leave this truck with factory points ignition, but it is hard to get good points sometimes.
Don't forget to clean and lube the distributor cam and have that oiling felt installed

- Arco

Ye I am staying points on it. Got some white lituium grease for the point cam in there. What my dad used way back in the day and he was getting 30-35k miles from a set. Admittedly on hetter quality points, but still.

 

[Rob_Roy]

Now if only WM stocked WIX filters. Alas, only choices...motorcraft, acdelco, frambombs, and inhouse. And I doubt they have a filter that fits my engine.

As for the ignition...the points ignition is working without flaw so I am happy to run it. Dont understand people's aversion to points ignition...ya'll act like it's a serial murderer or somethin but I dont see why first hand.

I was not suggesting to eliminate the points, rather to use them to trigger an aftermarket box. My experience doing this was very positive, but if you are happy with the current setup no need to change.

 

[ripcord]

^^ Using points to trigger an ignition box will greatly extend the life of the points because the amount of current they're carrying is a tiny fraction of what they do with a conventional points and condenser setup.

Basically, the point surface never burns and the only thing that hurts them is the mechanical wear from riding the cam so they can last nearly indefinitely.

 

[C6 Modellsport]

I was not suggesting to eliminate the points, rather to use them to trigger an aftermarket box. My experience doing this was very positive, but if you are happy with the current setup no need to change.

^^ Using points to trigger an ignition box will greatly extend the life of the points because the amount of current they're carrying is a tiny fraction of what they do with a conventional points and condenser setup.

Basically, the point surface never burns and the only thing that hurts them is the mechanical wear from riding the cam so they can last nearly indefinitely.

Large part of the appeal to vintage autos for me is experiencing them as they were originally designed. As such I am not planning on modernizing very much at all. I mean, hell, I will have a set of G78-15 bias ply tires mounted on a second set of 15x7 steelies for when I drive it to a car show on a weekend so I can say I've driven it on the bias tires it came with. The vast majority of the driving ittl get will be on modern radials, of course, I'm not suicidal enough to try to negotiate 3pm Nashville weekday traffic in a thunderstorm on bias tires. But there's justification for occasional fitment of bias plies just the same.

Keeping the ignition as it is plays into that. So does leaving it 3 on the Tree, leaving the fuel tank in the cab(alongside the practical reason of 'if I move it I have nowhere to put my spare tire that doesnt get in the way of my RC planes), etc. If I don't absolutely HAVE to change something to be beyond what was available in the 70s, I probably won't. If I find points failing every 3-4 months I might consider putting a 6AL on the fender and triggering it with them, but if they are giving me a reasonable account of themselves I will leave it as is. Originality is important to me on this one and if I get 20k miles per $2 set of points I consider that acceptable. On par with what they got back in the day and it ain't like changing them is difficult. Granted that's only about a year's driving, but hey.

The dashcam I am going to fit is the only such planned change. They didnt have 4k dashcams back then. I do want to start a dashcam channel with this truck; beyond the mountain of arsehole drivers I see on a daily basis there'll be the novelty factor of it being a vintage auto. Maybe itt'l take off enough to qualify as a side hustle? Who knows.

I do plan on retrofitting air con because dailying a vehicle in TN involves spending quite a bit of time waiting at red lights 3pm on an august afternoon, but even that isnt really beyond the scope of 'keeping it as it was back when' since Chevrolet would have put aircon on this truck in 1971 if my grandfather had ordered the option! I have retrofitted a radio, but even there it's a very much vintage setup. Unisef CR20V AM/FM/Cassette. My dad was trying to put a radio in this thing 40 years ago and I wouldnt be surprised if he was eyeballing that exact head unit back in the day lol.

 

[Gasbuggy]

VR1 10w30

 

[someonesomewhere]

Haven't seen it mentioned, so just in case you're real young or once knew but have forgotten...

The worst thing you can do to points is turn the key to 'ignition' without starting the motor, and leaving it on. They can and will weld themselves shut. Haha.

Easily avoidable, just unhook the ground wire (or coil wire) to them if you're doing something that you need the key on for any length of time without the motor running (chasing electrical problems,etc).

Nice truck, enjoy it!

 

[C6 Modellsport]

Haven't seen it mentioned, so just in case you're real young or once knew but have forgotten...

The worst thing you can do to points is turn the key to 'ignition' without starting the motor, and leaving it on. They can and will weld themselves shut. Haha.

Easily avoidable, just unhook the ground wire (or coil wire) to them if you're doing something that you need the key on for any length of time without the motor running (chasing electrical problems,etc).

Nice truck, enjoy it!

Welded points? Annoying. Exploding the coil because it overheats running current through it for an extended time? . Ye I use ACC unless I have the engine running 'cause I know points ignition systems really do not like being 'live' without firing. Do so a lot; when I'm grilling I drop the tailgate and use that as a bench while running the radio.

Happily, no major electrical issues to sort. Blower motor doesnt want to come to life, horn is dead, reverse lights inop, but everything else is working perfectly.

 

[burbguy82]

I would run Valvoline Vr1 in 10w30 or 20w50 or a mix of the two grades.