Reviving a 71 C10! Curious about suitable oils.

Welded points? Annoying. Exploding the coil because it overheats running current through it for an extended time? 😬. Ye I use ACC unless I have the engine running 'cause I know points ignition systems really do not like being 'live' without firing. Do so a lot; when I'm grilling I drop the tailgate and use that as a bench while running the radio.

Happily, no major electrical issues to sort. Blower motor doesnt want to come to life, horn is dead, reverse lights inop, but everything else is working perfectly.
If it's in good shape, a new harness could save a lot of headaches now and in the future. Should come with blade-style fuses as well, and be easily available (I would think). Also a great way to undo any butchery that has been done in the last 50 years.

Otherwise, I'd start by checking and freshening all the grounds first. Bad ground can cause weird issues (especially with lighting).
 
If it's in good shape, a new harness could save a lot of headaches now and in the future. Should come with blade-style fuses as well, and be easily available (I would think). Also a great way to undo any butchery that has been done in the last 50 years.

Otherwise, I'd start by checking and freshening all the grounds first. Bad ground can cause weird issues (especially with lighting).

Wiring is about as close to pristine as an unrestored 53 year old vehicle can be. Thankfully. A replacement harness wouldnt be a big job on a vehicle this simple, but I see no rush for it. None of my wires are a fire hazard and everything in the electrical system I need to be as safe as I can be in a 1971 vehicle is working.

Working on it right now, actually, tackling some other issues. Last time I drove it cruising at 55-60 flat ground was effortless but if it hit a hill it fell on its face, then refired as soon as I lifted. Checking simple stuff first proves my at-the-time diagnosis: trash plugged the fuel filter. Replaced the pickup in the tank as the sock had exploded and wasnt doing its job, cleaned and reinstalled the sintered broze filter, currently on the fuel pump just so I dont find fuel in my oil in a hundred miles from chemical incompatibilities. I suspect the pump on my engine is factory original and thus wont like E10, but my replacement is compatible with E10.

Gonna drop, sample the oil, put my havoline 10w30 in it, then focus on why one of my back brakes is dragging. That, and get the 25 year old rear tires removed from the truck so they can be toted into town and replaced with new ones; I had wanted to drive it in and have the tires mounted to it nornally since they had been pristine and it seemed I could get away with a low speed 15 mile jaunt into town on them, but they have started chunking and cracking so I am not going to risk it.

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You seem to be taking a very methodical and realistic approach to reviving this old truck.
I hope that it can end up serving you well as a daily driver.
Yep. This thing's got a lot of sentimental value besides the whole 'it needs to be properly reliable if I'm gonna be driving it to work 5 days a week' aspect so I need to cross all my I's and dot all my T's getting it roadworthy again. It has been well cared for over the years and it deserves a careful touch now as well. No rushing, no corner cutting. I've even got a new steering coupler sitting in the seat to put in it! Old one seems to be in fine condition, but it's 53 years old and if it fails I lose steering, so no sense chancing it.

It seems to quite like that havoline 10w30 high mileage oil, too. Quiet as a church mouse on it. Given how convenient it is to get the stuff I think I've found its forever oil.
 
She's a smooth runner. Perfect pressure.
And quite reliable! Last week, came home from work, climbed in, twisted the key. 5 out of 5 times it started as easily as it did in that video! It is currently in 'waiting on parts to mail in' limbo. All four Goodyears are mounted but I had a rear brake stick on. Thought it just a broken retention pin, drums are basically perfect, so ordered shoes and hardware. Installing them, discovered my pass rear wheel cylinder has a piston that's stuck and the other piston is leaking bad, so onto LMC I went. New wheel cylinders 7 bucks a pop, sprung for three new soft lines since I am breaking the hydraulics open anyway might as well change them. May also order a new master and front calipers/pads, change it all at once. Hard lines are fine; I already stood on the brakes trying to burst something and everything held fine. 👌

I have the truck entered in a show about 15 miles from my home July 12-13 and I plan on driving it to said show both days, so I have approximately now till then to sort this issue out and replace an old rag joint before it fails. Work itself wont be hard as this thing is immensely cooperative...my drums just wiggled off and the axle shafts behind them are rust free!!...it's balancing ordering parts with my paychecks. You know how that goes haha

There's trophies at that show, all entrants get one raffle ticket for a crate fully dressed LS, but I will consider it a massive win simply to send a picture of it sitting in the lineup back to my family. Beginning of March it was sitting forlorn in its grave, middle of July it drove to a truck show as an entrant...hell yeah!

It will need a clutch, too, but I will worry about that after the show. Clutch doesnt slip or chatter or grab, but it also only acts on the upper third of the pedal and the adjustment rod is maxed out. Worn disc. It will hold fine for two 30 mile round trips and a couple shakedown runs before then but I think changing that before asking it to do 82 miles a day 5 days a week is a prudent idea.
 
That is a very nice ride. Not many left that are that original. About every '70's truck in the US seems to have had the original motor and trans out and replaced by a 350 and a 350 Turbo at some point in it's life. I'm guilty of several swaps myself. One 427, one 350, one 327.
 
That is a very nice ride. Not many left that are that original. About every '70's truck in the US seems to have had the original motor and trans out and replaced by a 350 and a 350 Turbo at some point in it's life. I'm guilty of several swaps myself. One 427, one 350, one 327.
It's also super super healthy inside!



Fixed a big vacuum leak...the hose between the PCV valve and the intake manifold was so far gone it was spewing oil onto the exhaust and making quite the smokeshow...and installed a tach. A little twiddling later to get the idle mix and idle speed screws back onto planet earth and there it is. 500rpm, 30psi oil pressure, at full operating temp, smooth as silk.

Ignore the rattling. That's the tinwork that guides hot air into the snorkel from around the exhaust manifold when the engine's cold. I'm not sure the selector valve for that is even working and I'm probably just going to remove that bit of tinwork outright.

Waiting on some brake parts to mail in. I have four brand new tires mounted and balanced and that engine is running like a sewing machine. It is due for another shakedown run as soon as the brake parts I have on order are installed and the brakes re-bled.
my vote is a 10w-30 HDEO.
I'm using some Havoline high mileage 10w30 blend in it and it loves it. 30psi at full operating temp and at 500rpm. Chevrolet spec is 10psi oil pressure.
 
I'm using some Havoline high mileage 10w30 blend in it and it loves it. 30psi at full operating temp and at 500rpm. Chevrolet spec is 10psi oil pressure
you asked for recommendations and have shut everyone’s recommendation down. just say you know what you want to run and be done with it.
 
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