Oil For Very Hard Driven 05 Mustang Gt
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Im curious why ford specs 5w-50 for the 07 Sheby GT500? The 5.4 is a modular engine too although it has a blower on it. I hope somebody can give a explantion for this cause I sure Im confused now.
Hmm interesting but it does say this: The lower viscosity oil also creates less internal friction, which frees up power and improves efficiency.
Dont know if all of it is a cover up on why they are using that type of oil.
Att. Andrew
nomochevys
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Member # 10342
posted 03 September, 2006 19:14
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Im curious why ford specs 5w-50 for the 07 Sheby GT500? The 5.4 is a modular engine too although it has a blower on it. I hope somebody can give a explantion for this cause I sure Im confused now.
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Posts: 29 | From: Ky | Registered: Nov 2005 | IP: Logged |
It's not the same 5.4 has Fords other offerings.
I agree with buster on the red line suggestion.
Junior Member
Member # 10342
posted 03 September, 2006 19:14
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Im curious why ford specs 5w-50 for the 07 Sheby GT500? The 5.4 is a modular engine too although it has a blower on it. I hope somebody can give a explantion for this cause I sure Im confused now.
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Posts: 29 | From: Ky | Registered: Nov 2005 | IP: Logged |
It's not the same 5.4 has Fords other offerings.
I agree with buster on the red line suggestion.
So back to the topic guys so Which oil should I run indefinitively?? stick with 5w-20 or switch to mobil1 5w-30 or amsoil 5w-30 or GC 5w-30?? Remember it is 75-90 all year around with 80-90% humidity. I only use synthetics also.
ATt. Andrew
ATt. Andrew
redline 5w-20.
The Shelby GT500 and Ford GT engines are extremely low-volume production engines essentially hand built with aftermarket parts. As an example, I believe these specialty 5.4 engines don't even use the same bearings as the regular production engines.
I dont think we got redline over here haven´t seen it.
Do a search on it. You can order from them. Motul is a good oil. But I would have to see how it respones to your FJORD engine. It may be to viscous.
I was been told the only reason because it requires 5w-20 was to able to meet requirements to get into some goverment deductions ans incentives. So that I should switch to 5w-30
Att. Andrew
Att. Andrew
0W-30 German Castrol is the only oil that Castrol makes that is a "True Synthetic". The 5W-30 Syntec is a Group III (not a true synthetic).
Probably 5W-20 will be O.K. in your car. But if you go with it make sure you do an oil analysis.
Once again:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=016033;p=1#000018
Do some more searching and reading here on 5W-20 oils...this topic has literally been beaten to death over and over. Lots of good info posted previously if you do a little bit of searching.
Ford, or any manufacturer selling cars in the US, has to issue a single blanket oil recommendation for each engine per CAFE. Still, "driven really hard" may not be as hard as you think. Sustained high speed driving or towing where the engine is consistently operating around maximum output would fit "really hard" use to me. Drag racing or street racing is very temporary relatively speaking, allowing the engine and oil to cool off. Not as hard.
Put an oil cooler on the engine to be sure. They can probably be ordered directly from Ford Motorsports and shouldn't be very expensive. My father in law's F150 with the 4.6 came with one standard (no towing package) so check that you don't have one first.
Put an oil cooler on the engine to be sure. They can probably be ordered directly from Ford Motorsports and shouldn't be very expensive. My father in law's F150 with the 4.6 came with one standard (no towing package) so check that you don't have one first.
I'm glad someone gets this point. Very few public roads will allow you to run WOT for extended periods of time.
Good advice. I actually would install some accurate oil temp & pressure gauges first to see if any additional oil cooling is even necessary.
I quality synthetic Xw-20 is probably all the protection you need. A quality synthetic Xw-30 probably won't hurt, but it may not necessarily help either. IMHO, I'd start with something like RedLine 5w20 in that vehicle and monitor the guages. Have Terry Dyson do one of his professional analysis on it too.
By going off of UOA's. These "modular" engines prefer a lighter oil. If you use a quality synthetic and because you have modded engine I recommend 0-5w-20/30 and a conservative OCI of 3K. If you do that and a UOA you will have a better picture of what you should do. If you do a UOA before 3K I don't know if you have enough miles on the oil to give you an accurate account what is happening. If you have further questions you can ask Terry. Or 427Z06 is a knowledgeable member ask him.
You need a lubricant with a strong and stable lubrication film. I propose to go to a 30weight which passes the ACEA A3 tests. ACEA A1 is the "weakest" european specification best for economy and worst for protection, A2 is a mediocre and A5 is a combination of A1-A2-A3, but the best for hard driving-hard conditions is the neat ACEA A3. As far as I know there is no 20weight capable to pass ACEA A3 tests.
The HDD Series 3000 5W30 is a very capable 30weight produced by AMSOIL specially made for very high stressing and hard driving, without compromises on best fluidity and longevity.
RED LINE 5W30 seems to be as "good and hard" as HDD. I suppose that Castrol SYNTEC 0W30, ELF EXCELLIUM LDX 0W30, TOTAL QUARTZ ENERGY 0W30, FUCHS TITAN SUPERSYN SL 0W30 and of course AMSOIL TSO Series 2000 0W30 are somewhere very close. All these meets ACEA A3.
If you choose to stay at 20weight, move to RED LINE 5W20 and nothing else (HTHS 3.3 is like a very good 30's film). It is the "strongest" 20weight I know.
The HDD Series 3000 5W30 is a very capable 30weight produced by AMSOIL specially made for very high stressing and hard driving, without compromises on best fluidity and longevity.
RED LINE 5W30 seems to be as "good and hard" as HDD. I suppose that Castrol SYNTEC 0W30, ELF EXCELLIUM LDX 0W30, TOTAL QUARTZ ENERGY 0W30, FUCHS TITAN SUPERSYN SL 0W30 and of course AMSOIL TSO Series 2000 0W30 are somewhere very close. All these meets ACEA A3.
If you choose to stay at 20weight, move to RED LINE 5W20 and nothing else (HTHS 3.3 is like a very good 30's film). It is the "strongest" 20weight I know.
I follow the Mustang forums, and there are plenty of guys running power adders on modulars that stick with 5w-20 and have no issues at all.
And I totally disagree on needing an A3 oil; it will feel sluggish and isn't needed. Why are these guys with 400+ rear wheel hp in modular GTs and stock bottom ends not blowing them up on Motorcraft 5w-20???
Now, if you turbocharge it, then that is an ENTIRELY different story. That would likely require a beefy 30 weight depending on oil temps etc.
And I totally disagree on needing an A3 oil; it will feel sluggish and isn't needed. Why are these guys with 400+ rear wheel hp in modular GTs and stock bottom ends not blowing them up on Motorcraft 5w-20???
Now, if you turbocharge it, then that is an ENTIRELY different story. That would likely require a beefy 30 weight depending on oil temps etc.
I agree with Drew. The high horsepower does not mean anything to a 5w20. There is absolutely no reason to go up a grade unless you can document your oi temperatures are sustained at abnormal temperatures. I believe the original posters Mustang already has oil coolers, combined with an 8 qt sump that oil is not getting hot unless he is on a road course for extended periods. In traffic or on a dragstrip he just can't get that oil too hot.
Still I dont understand the huge difference. There must be a reason and Im not a 5w 20 hater. The 5.4 in the shelby has a forged crank and pistons as well as forged rods if I am not mistaken. 4 valve heads too. It has about 8 lbs of boost. I am not a expert on these things and sombody correct me if Im wrong.
Seems like a huge difference between that and the 4.6 and I own a 4.6 dohc in a mach 1 and run 5w 20 mobil 1. Im just trying to put the pieces to the puzzel together because ford kinda contradicts themselves.
I know many of you have a great deal of knowledge on this and i dont honestly. I cant understand why there would be such a viscosity difference if it was not benificial and ford obvioulsy thinks it is in this case but not on the regular 4.6 GT's
Can someone explain this? I really want to learn why this is. I think this deserves an answer from ford to be honest.
If it were me, here's what I would do, and even though I'm a camaro lover I promise not to hurt your mustang (cuz the new GTs are very nice and Id hate to see it get hurt).
Since you love mobil1, try both and UOA them.
1. Run M1 5W-20 for a duration of 3000mi and do an oil analysis.
2. Run M1 5W-30 for 3000 and do an oil analysis.
Once you do that you will likely see either increased wear with one or the other, or one will slip out of grade, or something. You can make a much more educated decision there.
In my scenario I decided that I would try 40wt oil in mine spec'd for 30. I found more than 3x the lead in my UOA running 40, and no discernible butt-dyno difference. As a result I switched promptly back to 30 and I haven't strayed.
Also, it is VERY important that before you "drive hard" that the water AND OIL temperature be 100% up to temp. I try to not drive my car hard for the first 10-15 minutes to make sure it's fully warm.
Since you love mobil1, try both and UOA them.
1. Run M1 5W-20 for a duration of 3000mi and do an oil analysis.
2. Run M1 5W-30 for 3000 and do an oil analysis.
Once you do that you will likely see either increased wear with one or the other, or one will slip out of grade, or something. You can make a much more educated decision there.
In my scenario I decided that I would try 40wt oil in mine spec'd for 30. I found more than 3x the lead in my UOA running 40, and no discernible butt-dyno difference. As a result I switched promptly back to 30 and I haven't strayed.
Also, it is VERY important that before you "drive hard" that the water AND OIL temperature be 100% up to temp. I try to not drive my car hard for the first 10-15 minutes to make sure it's fully warm.
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