Oil For Very Hard Driven 05 Mustang Gt

[Fred Bear]

[/qb][/QUOTE]Not entirely true, Of course when I take it to warranty I take out most of the stuff. They can´t void my warranty because I am letting more air into the motor, it will be a whole other 20$ when the turbos are in.

Thanks Andrew [/QB][/QUOTE]
That's wrong to do that. If you mod the car and dont think it would void the warranty, then why take the mods off to go to the dealer?

 

[buster]

Royal Purple 5w-20 might not be a bad choice. It still has ZDDP at SL levels and has a nice Flash Point of 480F from the esters they use, one of them in the form of "Synerlec".

 

[Rodbuckler]

Androdz, Ford set up your engine to run 5W-20 for the same physical reasons that race engine builders are doing it today. They get good lubrication with better power and economy all at the same time. For high-performance driving use a high-performance 5W-20 oil. Your engine delivers mega oil volume to the bearings while delivering the proper pressure and volume to the valvetrain and chain tensioners. 5W-30 is a poor recommendation.

JoeGibbsRacingOil's MicroZol XP1 is a typical modern race engine oil that you might consider for a track day:

code:

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Used by Joe Gibbs Racing in all their

un-restricted NASCAR Nextel Cup and Busch

Series engines, this oil offers horsepower

without compromise. Designed to handle 500

miles of competition, over 9,500 rpm, and

temperatures above 250 degrees, MicroZol XP1

reduces friction and fights valve-train wear,

especially in flat-tappet engines, by utilizing

multiple synthetic base oils, and a unique

combination of anti-wear and friction reducing

additives. Compatible with methanol and high

octane race fuels.



Recommended applications: Iron Block V-8 race

engines with main and rod bearing clearances

under .0025, Flat-Tappet Race Engines, Legends

car engines, Engines where a 30 weight oil is

called for and GM Crate Motors and other spec or

sealed motors. Viscosity typical of a SAE 5W-20.

It can be blended and is completely compatible

with MicroZol XP2, XP3 or XP0.

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[Drew99GT]

quote:

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Originally posted by Volvohead:
Looking at that valvetrain glimpse, no wonder the strength of that engine family is its lower end.

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Actually the valvetrains are pretty bulletproof. The bottom ends are for sure the weak spot in power adder cars. The rods are mighty weeny in the 4.6 L SOHC engines.

 

[Dominic]

10W-30s tend to not be more shear stable than 5W-30 or 0W-30s in modern times. 10-15 years ago it held true volvohead, but today many 5W-30s are plenty robust and are sometimes stronger than "10W-30s"

To be honest, the 5W-30 and lighter winter weights are better for cold start period, even when its 50F outside.

 

[Androdz]

I gotta check the to see if it has an oil cooler already. If not where can I get some good qualitiy oil coolers for my car? Also thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it.

Att. Andrew

 

[Rodbuckler]

Drew99GT is that a photo of a Windsor PI head? I don't know how the 2005 GT engine is built, but I would want the Cobra forged rotating assembly with forced induction in my 4.6L.

Ford should call it the non-Modular Motor series, as there were lots of changes and design variations to date. The oiling systems are of course not all the same. For example, the aluminum block engines came with higher volume oil pumps to compensate for clearance growth in the mains. Here is a article for Ford 4.6L SOHC rebuilders that shows more engine details:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb40228.htm

 

[Volvohead]

quote:

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Originally posted by Drew99GT:

quote:

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Originally posted by Volvohead:
Looking at that valvetrain glimpse, no wonder the strength of that engine family is its lower end.

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Actually the valvetrains are pretty bulletproof. The bottom ends are for sure the weak spot in power adder cars. The rods are mighty weeny in the 4.6 L SOHC engines.

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That lobe/roller profile is far too narrow to support any serious spring rates. Maybe the aftermarket cams and rockers are better. Just my 2c.

 

[buster]

Checkout the Redline PowerPack. Decent price.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_powerpacks.asp

 

[Dominic]

05 Mustang GT (with manual trans.) includes 7 quarts of 5W20 motor oil, 3 quarts of D4 ATF for the transmission, 2 quarts of 75W140 gear oil for the differential, 1 bottle of WaterWetter for the radiator, 1 bottle of SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner, a sticker kit, and a Red Line Oil embroidered hat.

 

[Winston]

Listen to Mitch Alsup. You can't pick the best oil without looking at your oil temps and pressures. Get an oil temp gauge.

 

[rainman]

FWIW, I'm using Redline 5W-20 in my '05 Mustang GT. I have a local dealer which I can walk in to and buy it for $7.75, so getting it is easy for me. My GT is totally stock, so my issues aren't what his are. I do run it hard on occasion, but day to day it's not pushed too hard. I plan to do some mods in the future, so I'm giving Redline a try to see how this motor likes it. I just started my 2nd run of Redline (7500 miles OCI initially to be safe), and will be doing a UOA in about 6 months when I hit 7500 miles on the oil and 30,000 on the engine. I'll post on the UOA section at that time.

 

[Androdz]

Quote:

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quote:

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Originally posted by Dominic:
10W-30s tend to not be more shear stable than 5W-30 or 0W-30s in modern times. 10-15 years ago it held true volvohead, but today many 5W-30s are plenty robust and are sometimes stronger than "10W-30s" . . .

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That's oil commercial talk suitable for Momma's Camry. I don't agree when extreme operating conditions exist such as in a track engine. Most competition engines still run straight weights and the less VIIs, the better.

I wouldn't even consider a 30 other than RL in a legitimate track engine anyway. Too thin.

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Remember also Most competition engines last 60-80 hours before having to have everything replaced.

 

[Androdz]

Quote:

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[/qb]

Not entirely true, Of course when I take it to warranty I take out most of the stuff. They can´t void my warranty because I am letting more air into the motor, it will be a whole other 20$ when the turbos are in.

Thanks Andrew [/QB][/QUOTE]
That's wrong to do that. If you mod the car and dont think it would void the warranty, then why take the mods off to go to the dealer?

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[/QUOTE]


The law is on your side with the fergus-morrisson act. But as always it is easier to prevent than to respond. Taking my almost to stock costs me 20 minutes. If a dealer wants to be an a** then I have to call the EPA, the BBB and the FTC. It will take around 1-2 weeks of a hassle to have it reinstated. A dealership cannot take off you warranty for a mod, this was made in the 1970's to protect the aftermarket industry.

Here is a link to get more info:
http://www.mlmlaw.com/library/guides/ftc/warranties/undermag.htm

Att. Andrew

 

[SSDude]

If it were my car, I would use GC or Mobil 1 5w-40.