Sounds good and how much snow did ya get during yesterdays fun? We got around 5" out here in west pa. Glad you started the Riv also, keep us posted.
OCI and oil for new (to me) driving style
- Thread starter SS1970chrysler
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I bought my previous '64 Chrysler newport work car from out there a few years ago. That was one long, boring drive. I got maybe an inch or 2 at the house, but 2-3 at work. Also been getting lots of sub-zero temps at work so I'm sticking with the cheap thin oil for a bit longer. I didn't drive the Riv as I didn't need to and didn't see the point in salting it up for nothing.
I see a need for the caddy's services until late this year and the Riv's job is to be ready if the caddy breaks as I don't always have time to fix things immediately. I won't count on the Avenger until it is in my driveway with title in hand.
Currently, I'm having some serious trouble with the Ulnar nerve in my left arm. Even leaving my elbow on the armrest causes my fingers to go numb and lose function after a few minutes. Worse on some days than others. So keeping these 2 larger cars going until I can get that resolved is a must. The real "easy" steering is also needed as I sometimes don't have much grip or responsiveness with both hands in an emergency situation. The Riv drives best using my left hand to steer, which isn't always optimal.
The stop-leak additive I tried seems to have had some effect on the Riv, but not on the Caddy yet. The bottle says a second dose may be needed, but I don't think I will anytime soon.
I see a need for the caddy's services until late this year and the Riv's job is to be ready if the caddy breaks as I don't always have time to fix things immediately. I won't count on the Avenger until it is in my driveway with title in hand.
Currently, I'm having some serious trouble with the Ulnar nerve in my left arm. Even leaving my elbow on the armrest causes my fingers to go numb and lose function after a few minutes. Worse on some days than others. So keeping these 2 larger cars going until I can get that resolved is a must. The real "easy" steering is also needed as I sometimes don't have much grip or responsiveness with both hands in an emergency situation. The Riv drives best using my left hand to steer, which isn't always optimal.
The stop-leak additive I tried seems to have had some effect on the Riv, but not on the Caddy yet. The bottle says a second dose may be needed, but I don't think I will anytime soon.
Ideally, I'll get another NICE large Chrysler and either fix the Riv or replace it with something good enough for local working and scale down the fleet by one.
Sounds good. Hope your elbow problem gets better soon.
While Fri and Sat were bad "nerve" days, today was almost normal. Weather was good enough that I tackled the miss/stumble in the Riv. 2 of the 4 carb mounting bolts needed a little torque, as did some of the screws. Also shot some cleaner through it. Apparently the EGR valve was sticking some as plugging the vacuum line for it with a set-screw seems to have did the trick. Drivablity also improved. I think, that with a good set of tires and balancing, this car could straighten out well. I've also decided that 20w-50 is not great for this application and will stick with 40w's going forward. The 50w's only for top-off use. It was worth a try. Now @2200 miles on oil in Riv.
As for the elbow problem, I've been to my 3rd doctor and all 3 recommend surgery. So, I'll see where that goes since WC is paying for it.
As for the elbow problem, I've been to my 3rd doctor and all 3 recommend surgery. So, I'll see where that goes since WC is paying for it.
Almost forgot, I threw in a half quart of 5w-30 to fill the Riv when I added the stop-leak stuff. That brings the total to 3 qts in that car.
@ 113k on Caddy, replaced breather element and cleaned PCV valve. Also did the Riv's as well at 100k.
Nearly an ounce of goo came out of the caddy's filter. This has the can type on the valve cover that you remove the element from with needle nose pliers and stuff new one in. The one I removed appeared to be factory original.
Nearly an ounce of goo came out of the caddy's filter. This has the can type on the valve cover that you remove the element from with needle nose pliers and stuff new one in. The one I removed appeared to be factory original.
Now @2000 miles on Caddy's oil- added 3rd qt of ST5w-30.
Stop leak seems to have failed and going thicker is coming soon.
Avenger should be coming within a month and I'll have to decide what to do with it and the beaters then...
Stop leak seems to have failed and going thicker is coming soon.
Avenger should be coming within a month and I'll have to decide what to do with it and the beaters then...
thanks for the update
In looking through UOA's on here, I've found that the T5 10w-30 isn't really any thicker than the 10w-30 + a thickener that I used last time in Caddy, so I'll save that for my other cars. It looks like I'll have 3 oil changes to do in March.
The Caddy and Riv will get either 10w-40 or 15w-40, while my mother's LTD will get QSGB 10w-30.
The Caddy and Riv will get either 10w-40 or 15w-40, while my mother's LTD will get QSGB 10w-30.
Sounds good, and has the QS 5W30 by itself slowed the leaks in the Brougham?
Originally Posted By: shell_user
Sounds good, and has the QS 5W30 by itself slowed the leaks in the Brougham?
Nope. It seems the result will be the same, which is why I tried a "stop-leak" additive. I've also debated about Motor-Honey, but think I might as well just use thicker oil next time. Seems that 5qts will be the top-off total for 4k on this change, with 6 still a possibility. The only debate left for this change is whether I keep dumping various 30w's in or start adding 10w-40. My last loose 5w-30 was just put in last week.
While I haven't used it for work lately, the Riv has shown a marked improvement with the same additive.
Sounds good, and has the QS 5W30 by itself slowed the leaks in the Brougham?
Nope. It seems the result will be the same, which is why I tried a "stop-leak" additive. I've also debated about Motor-Honey, but think I might as well just use thicker oil next time. Seems that 5qts will be the top-off total for 4k on this change, with 6 still a possibility. The only debate left for this change is whether I keep dumping various 30w's in or start adding 10w-40. My last loose 5w-30 was just put in last week.
While I haven't used it for work lately, the Riv has shown a marked improvement with the same additive.
I would personally try that T5 ROTELLA in that car.
Which one?
Originally Posted By: shell_user
I would personally try that T5 ROTELLA in that car.
Originally Posted By: shell_user
I would personally try that T5 ROTELLA in that car.
I think I may have found the leak on the Caddy's engine. Front seal of oil pan looks like the culprit. On the next good morning I get, I'll try tightening the bolts in that area around the crescent shaped seal.
Around 2am, I was outside, under the car, checking the pan bolts. The rear half on both sides were good and tight, but the front 4 on either side and the 2 studs were loose. Studs were only kinda loose and the front bolts were finger-loose. One was even missing. For how loose the bolt opposite that one was, I think it may have just fell out at some point.
Good thing I found this before something terrible happened.
Good thing I found this before something terrible happened.
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Around 2am, I was outside, under the car, checking the pan bolts. The rear half on both sides were good and tight, but the front 4 on either side and the 2 studs were loose. Studs were only kinda loose and the front bolts were finger-loose. One was even missing. For how loose the bolt opposite that one was, I think it may have just fell out at some point.
Good thing I found this before something terrible happened.
2:00AM?? Wow....
Around 2am, I was outside, under the car, checking the pan bolts. The rear half on both sides were good and tight, but the front 4 on either side and the 2 studs were loose. Studs were only kinda loose and the front bolts were finger-loose. One was even missing. For how loose the bolt opposite that one was, I think it may have just fell out at some point.
Good thing I found this before something terrible happened.
2:00AM?? Wow....
I meant the Shell Rotella gray jug, or T5 synthetic blend, as my wal mart has it still on roll back to $12.47 a gal. Reg price i think is $16
glad you may have solved the caddys leak
glad you may have solved the caddys leak
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Around 2am, I was outside, under the car, checking the pan bolts. The rear half on both sides were good and tight, but the front 4 on either side and the 2 studs were loose. Studs were only kinda loose and the front bolts were finger-loose. One was even missing. For how loose the bolt opposite that one was, I think it may have just fell out at some point.
Good thing I found this before something terrible happened.
2:00AM?? Wow....
I work nights. 3am is lunchtime. It wasn't bad out last night and thinking the pan was loose was bugging me.
Leak may be much smaller now as it seems much drier under the car after only one drive so far...
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Around 2am, I was outside, under the car, checking the pan bolts. The rear half on both sides were good and tight, but the front 4 on either side and the 2 studs were loose. Studs were only kinda loose and the front bolts were finger-loose. One was even missing. For how loose the bolt opposite that one was, I think it may have just fell out at some point.
Good thing I found this before something terrible happened.
2:00AM?? Wow....
I work nights. 3am is lunchtime. It wasn't bad out last night and thinking the pan was loose was bugging me.
Leak may be much smaller now as it seems much drier under the car after only one drive so far...
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I'll continue with the 30w's for the remainder of this OCI to determine how the leaks are now. It's 1/4 qt below full now and I'll look next week.
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