OCI and oil for new (to me) driving style

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If ya wanted to try it you could get some Rotella conventional at AAP, but its like crazy at $17.99. Glad I got some older stuff there when it was on sale for like $11.99

thanks for the updates.
 
Sometimes, I get that when it's on sale for $12.99, otherwise, the T5 is actually cheaper all year round.
 
So how is the 66' 300, and the 66' Newport and the 70 Newport doing on their oil changes? How is the 77' Riviera doing on the AXT 20W50? I hope your therapy for your arm/ and elbow is helping, and how is that going?

keep us posted,

adam
 
Originally Posted By: shell_user
So how is the 66' 300, and the 66' Newport and the 70 Newport doing on their oil changes? How is the 77' Riviera doing on the AXT 20W50? I hope your therapy for your arm/ and elbow is helping, and how is that going?

keep us posted,

adam

The 300 is the next one of my "keepers" due for an oil change. I do one of them each year. Neither of them will even be started again for a few more months yet. I've been on the 3-year system for the Chryslers and am thinking of going more than 1 year on the '62 Buick. I'll skip this year and extend to 2 years on that one and see. It's a different animal than the Chryslers.
The Riviera had been giving me regular start up knocks that would last for minutes and I was thinking the engine was getting really worn, even considering unloading it. I did a lot of tinkering with it over the last week or so including: plug EGR valve hose, replaced PCV hose, breather filter, cleaned PCV valve, turned back idle 1/8th turn, and changed oil filter, but not the oil. Now, except for rear seal leaking, it starts smooth and quiet, no "dieseling", and no pulsing at low or part throttle.
PCV hose was hard as a rock and not sealing well. EGR valve was not working smoothly, leading to the pulsing miss at part throttle. This caused the erratic steering as engine speed determines the effectiveness of the PS system. Blocking off the valve led to slightly increased compression, causing the "dieseling", which backing off the idle cured. I removed the Fram PH-25 and it was empty. Not one of my old pre-grippy ones either. I replaced it with one of the Purolater FL-30005's I had that were too long for the '62. I didn't change or drain the oil, or even pre-fill the new filter. Just lubed the gasket, installed it, and started the car. No knocks at all, even without a prefill. No more Fram on those engines for me. I drove it around through 5 towns today in various types of conditions and the Riv finally responded exactly how it should.
I'm still waiting for the Dr. to discuss my options after the EMG testing I had Friday. They detected compression of the ulnar nerve when my elbow is bent. No trouble when arm is slightly bent or straight, so at least no nerve death.
smile.gif
 
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One week after tightening the Caddy's oil pan bolts and oil level is holding steady around 1/4-1/2 qt below full. Not sure if that stopped the leaks, but it definitely took a huge bite out of them. This one may stay in the realm of 30w's after all.
 
Great news, and keep us posted, and if ya need some ST SAE 30 or want some Pennzoil HD-40, HD-30 or EMBLEM SAE 40 let me know.

adam
 
Great news, and keep us posted, and if ya need some ST SAE 30 or want some Pennzoil HD-40, HD-30 or EMBLEM SAE 40 let me know.

adam
 
Actually, I've got about 60 gallons of Service Pro XHD30w CF rated that I got for free last year.
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The '08 Avenger is now in my driveway so some hard decisions will be coming that I'm not looking forward to.
 
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Actually, I've got about 60 gallons of Service Pro XHD30w CF rated that I got for free last year.
smile.gif

The '08 Avenger is now in my driveway so some hard decisions will be coming that I'm not looking forward to.


my vote?
get rid of the buick riviera and alternate daily driving duties between cadillac and avenger. just my .02$.
 
That's actually what I've been pondering. The inspection on the Riv runs out in 2 months. being a 2 door v8 car with good interior and no rust/rot, it should sell easily. Also, by switching 2 wheels, I'd save on a set of tires for the Caddy this year. The caddy would likely be kept all this year at the least, pending on my luck.


https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=...d08b&type=1
 
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I'll be blunt, the Avenger will be 'harder riding' than the Caddy or the Buick...you got rid of the Granada b/c it rode too rough over bad roads.

Give the Avenger a couple of months...you may end up not liking it...but you WILL get better mileage.
 
That could very well be true. Also the thought has crossed my mind that, even at half book value, the $ from this new car could buy about 3 good junkers. All I've done with it so far, is to move it to the back of the driveway. I hadn't set up the seats or anything yet, but I couldn't see a thing beyond the windshield.
I have been looking through the service records, which are well documented. It seems this car has had the transmission solenoid pack replaced for leaking fluid, several coil packs for cyl #5 and finally the whole cylinder head itself for missfire on cyl #5 about 10k ago. A master cyl change for the low-light coming on frequently as well as a leaking caliper replaced. There's about 3k on the current fill of PYB 5w-20 and oil has been changed every 6k miles at various Jiffy Lubes with the same fill.
 
Originally Posted By: shell_user
If ya wanted to try it you could get some Rotella conventional at AAP, but its like crazy at $17.99. Glad I got some older stuff there when it was on sale for like $11.99

thanks for the updates.
SS1970chrysler said:
Sometimes, I get that when it's on sale for $12.99, otherwise, the T5 is actually cheaper all year round.[/quote
So the t-5 semi syn actually costs less the conventional 10w-30-15w-40?
And there are quite a few more options as far as grades too in the t -5 as well as a stronger add pack then the t-6.
Nice
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
shell_user said:
If ya wanted to try it you could get some Rotella conventional at AAP, but its like crazy at $17.99. Glad I got some older stuff there when it was on sale for like $11.99

thanks for the updates.
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Sometimes, I get that when it's on sale for $12.99, otherwise, the T5 is actually cheaper all year round.[/quote
So the t-5 semi syn actually costs less the conventional 10w-30-15w-40?
And there are quite a few more options as far as grades too in the t -5 as well as a stronger add pack then the t-6.
Nice


Yeah, it's weird around here that way with prices and availability on Rotella oils. Rotella 10w-30 conventional is only carried by AAP for around $18 per gallon. Rotella T5 10w-30 is always at Wallmart for $16 per gallon and even cheaper if on sale. The 15w-40 is available everywhere for $12-$18 per gallon, but Wallmart's regular price usually even beats the sale prices elsewhere.
 
Clevy at wal mart, the T5 Gray jug rotella is $16.00, at advance auto its like $17.99 all the time. Rotella 15w40 at wal mart is like $13 or so
 
Since the Dodge is full of gas, I'll pop on a plate and take a test drive today. Oil is 1/4 qt above the add mark and all other items look ok.
 
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